need help please

[modelageek]

. It also said misfire cyl. #1

That is a p0301^^^^^^

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[modelageek]

what 0301? never pulled that code. it pulled p1131. did change one upstream o2 sensor, but not both. should i also replace the other o2 sensor? truck is no longer recording any codes.

What side of the truck did you change the o2 sensor for, drivers or passenger?

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[Canndspam]

Not particularly familiar with your truck but could it be your idle air control valve? My buddy had one die that threw no codes.

 

[modelageek]

Dude, did you have a cyl 1 misfire code or not?

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[OlBlue38]

Does truck run ok except when idling? Try tapping on the EGR valve briskly. Did this help?

 

[modelageek]

Is it me or did he say he had a cyl 1 misfire in the fitst post.

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[OlBlue38]

When the PCM (computer) wants to open the EGR valve (at road speed) it provides a ground for the solenoid. The solenoid then opens and applies vacumn to the EGR valve. There should be no vacumn to the EGR at idle. EGR SHOULD BE SHUT. If there is vacumn to the EGR at idle engine will run rough.

 

[jinxlee]

No it did not code a #1 misfire, it was #2 and a lean condition on right bank. have replaced everything except the can purge valve. cleaned that though, and it wasn't very dirty. haven't cleaned the canisters mounted above the spare yet. have replaced all fuel related parts, and vacuum parts. there are so many i don't really feel like listing them all. both upstream o2 sensors have been replaced along with opening up the catalytic converters. None of this has helped. Have even disconnected the battery for 5 minutes to attempt to reset the computer. Just for the record, I am a woman, not a dude. Thanks for everyones input. Still trying to figure out the problem.

 

[OlBlue38]

Rough idle

I think we are going in circles. T first step to fixing a problem is to diagnose the problem. Do not just replace parts. That is expensive and may not fix any thing. Lets start over. #1 engine runs good except at idle? Ran codes, what were the codes? I understood you to say you got a code for lean, bank # 1 ? I understood you replaced the right HEGO sensor, you canceled the code and after driving the code did not reappear? Were there any other codes?

 

[modelageek]

No it did not code a #1 misfire, it was #2 and a lean condition on right bank. have replaced everything except the can purge valve. cleaned that though, and it wasn't very dirty. haven't cleaned the canisters mounted above the spare yet. have replaced all fuel related parts, and vacuum parts. there are so many i don't really feel like listing them all. both upstream o2 sensors have been replaced along with opening up the catalytic converters. None of this has helped. Have even disconnected the battery for 5 minutes to attempt to reset the computer. Just for the record, I am a woman, not a dude. Thanks for everyones input. Still trying to figure out the problem.

If you have a misfire code on a 3.0 do a compression test on the cylinder. Disable the motor from starting when you do the test. Post the result.

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[kimcrwbr1]

ok went out and started truck, pull vacuum off egr and nothing happened. then pull vacuum off the egr solenoid, nothing happened. then pulled vacuum off the can purge valve, and the idle went up, but truck did not smooth out. disconnected the wires from the egr solenoid and nothing happened. any ideas?

Did you change the EGR control solenoid? Be sure and bring the engine up to temp before any testing. The computer will run at open loop until the engine reaches around 140 degrees before any of the emissions systems begin to work or goes closed loop. Just in case you were not aware of that. Disconnect the battery for at least 1/2 an hour take a jewelers screwdriver and push all the pins in on all the connectors both sides. Make sure all the vacuum lines are correct and everything is connected. Inspect all the wiring especially around the exhaust manifolds for bare/ cracked or broke wires and fix as necessary. Run the engine at least 20 minutes at medium speeds, in all gears, cycle heat and A/C and then pull the codes again while the engine is still hot.

 

[jinxlee]

ok, i will try that. the first code it read was 1131 mod 10, the secondary code to that was misfire # 2 cylinder, lean condition bank # 1. after clearing that code, and running the truck for a bit it then recorded the code saying that the upsteam o2 sensor was bad. since then i have not been able to get it to record any codes. have disconnected the battery to reset the computer, but it still ran the same way. i told my husband that i thought that we needed to do a compression test on it. sometimes he disagrees with me. it is his truck, so i just laid back. he messed with it all day, and then at the end of the day, he asked me what i would do now. i again told him that i think we should run a compression check on all cylinders to see if we have the proper compression. i am really tired of messing with his truck, but i really want my ranger back. my v 12 jag was not supposed to be my daily driver, but since his truck messed up that's what it's been. if the compression check comes out ok, then i wonder if it may be a valve, or the timing. my brother mentioned that it may be the brain in the truck. not sure how to tell if the brain is causing this problem. i want to figure out what's wrong with the truck, and not just keep chasing the tail so to speak. i think he has finally gotten to a point on his truck that he will now take my advise. not sure why he didn't in the first place, as we have been together a long time. i always fix the trucks, and he fixes the bikes. it worked out pretty good until this thing came up with his truck. where he works, he works with some guys that race cars, and they have been giving him advise. that is why this has been going on so long. if they know so much, maybe they should come out to the house on the week end and actually figure out what's wrong with the truck. that way all of my week ends wouldn't be taken up with working on his truck. every week end one of his racing buddies has said that it was this or that and he does this to the truck on the week ends. so far i have just been along for the ride. i have to do a lot of the actual wrenching as i am smaller and can get my hands and arms in places that he can't. i'm sure you can understand why i am frustrated with this truck. at this point, i really would like to introduce it to my 12 ga. with slugs in it. then he wouldn't have to worry about his truck running. of course if i did that i would never get my ranger back. at least if it is something with my truck i just fix it. mine is harder to work on as it has the 4.0 and is a 4x4 off road. no room to work on anything. a lot of places on his truck have turned out to be very tight places to get into and work on. that's when i have to work on it. got on this forum hoping it would help to give him some insight to what is wrong with the truck. i was also hoping that it would help me to figure out what is wrong with it. he has replaced so many things that now it is shorter to say what hasn't been replaced. truck runs rough at an idle and through all the gears. it runs like it's running on 4 or 5 cylinders all the time. don't really want to drive the truck long enough to try to get a code for fear of doing big damage to the motor. hopefully this coming week end he will just go ahead and run the compression test so we can move on from there. thanks for every one's help.

 

[jgt]

check compression

Hi Jinxlee. Sorry but had an inner giggle because I've been going thru same with my husband's ranger. Well, we also had misfire #2 (p0302 flashing check engine) and rough running symptoms....and because of the misfire, other codes o2 sensor popped up too. We had changed plugs,wires, then we checked and swapped coils, checked the injectors, changed vac. hoses, pcv, fuel filters, cleaned MAF throttle body etc etc..... Was sure it was IT each time, as each part we pulled was bad or faulty, but no avail. Finally did compression test. BAD compression #2: not exactly sure of numbers, but something like 130-45-130-130. $850 later, I wish we would have done it sooner. Now, to get valve job or ?? At least we know.

Did you check your PCV valve? Mine was rattling, but saw the spring was weak or broken. Also I read do not mess with the curb idle screw. I know my guy was increasing the idle, but I backed it off afterwards and reset the computer because I was coming up with a p1506 (Idle Air control system overspeed error).

p.s. My friend who has been doing the work on the truck (99 2wd 2.5) also had a Ford mechanic come help with diagnosis. After the plugs and wires were changed, the top thing the ford guy wanted to look at were the 1) coils 2) injectors (had a tool and fuel pressure gauge) and 3) vacuum leak (which we had 2 bad hoses, but still didn't solve)...he was pretty sure it was a vac leak. Final test was a compression test, let me know what you come up with, I'm in the same boat. julie

 

[modelageek]

have you checked compression?

is idle rough or does it go up and down?

If you have a misfire code on a 3.0 do a compression test on the cylinder. Disable the motor from starting when you do the test. Post the result.

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Hi Jinxlee. Sorry but had an inner giggle because I've been going thru same with my husband's ranger. Well, we also had misfire #2 (p0302 flashing check engine) and rough running symptoms....and because of the misfire, other codes o2 sensor popped up too. We had changed plugs,wires, then we checked and swapped coils, checked the injectors, changed vac. hoses, pcv, fuel filters, cleaned MAF throttle body etc etc..... Was sure it was IT each time, as each part we pulled was bad or faulty, but no avail. Finally did compression test. BAD compression #2: not exactly sure of numbers, but something like 130-45-130-130. $850 later, I wish we would have done it sooner. Now, to get valve job or ?? At least we know.

Did you check your PCV valve? Mine was rattling, but saw the spring was weak or broken. Also I read do not mess with the curb idle screw. I know my guy was increasing the idle, but I backed it off afterwards and reset the computer because I was coming up with a p1506 (Idle Air control system overspeed error).

p.s. My friend who has been doing the work on the truck (99 2wd 2.5) also had a Ford mechanic come help with diagnosis. After the plugs and wires were changed, the top thing the ford guy wanted to look at were the 1) coils 2) injectors (had a tool and fuel pressure gauge) and 3) vacuum leak (which we had 2 bad hoses, but still didn't solve)...he was pretty sure it was a vac leak. Final test was a compression test, let me know what you come up with, I'm in the same boat. julie

Do a compression test on the cylinder. I had the same issue. It had a burnt exhaust valve. Bought new heads and the problem is solved. Got it done for $1,000

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[kimcrwbr1]

Your instincts are correct you need to start eliminating the variables compression test and leakdown is the first steps. Check compression engine cold three times through 1-6 1-6 1-6 with a good battery and all plugs removed. Short the coil wire,s to ground so you dont damage the ignition. The compression test will tell you if you have a leak a leakdown tells you where the leak is. With the compression tester fitting pump 30psi into into each cylinder when it is on the compression stroke. Remove the radiator cap and look for bubbles would indicate a head gasket leak with piece of vacuum tubing open the throttle body and listen to the intake , exhaust and crankcase (oil fill cap) the hissing will tell you if it is exhaust or intake valves or rings. There is allways leakage past the rings your listening for a different tone out the crankcase. The vacuum hose up to your ear will isolate the noise just stick it in the holes and listen. Then move on to the vacuum test using the guide in the tech library. The compression and vacuum tests will tell you the overall health of the motor as long as you have good oil pressure. Have you ever tried to do a decarb? Get a can of seafoam and bring the engine up to temp first then pull half a can of seafoam into the brake booster fitting at a high idle not to stall the motor and quickly shut it down. Wait half an hour and then start it and run around 3000 rpms until the smoke clears just pour the remainder of the seafoam in the fuel tank. The more the engine smokes the more carbon it is removing. It can create quite a cloud best to do it on a windy day when the neighbor you dont like is downwind Just kidding make sure the doors and windows are closed in your house. It is CAT safe if you not getting codes and it still runs rough sometimes the decarb will cure the issue. You can test the compression before and after the decarb to see if it made a difference before taking stuff apart. Your on the right track you should be able to nail it down compression being the first step for sure. GL