Narrowed D60 front axle and Sterling 10.25 rear axle builds

[Will]

Looks like balljoints. In '93 they had balljoint D60s?

 

[cdawall]

i am looking at swapping one of these into my truck as well. did you have to shorten the drivers side that much? i am trying to mount my current coils on it.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Looks like balljoints. In '93 they had balljoint D60s?

Yup it's a balljoint 60. They went to balljoints in 91 IIRC.

i am looking at swapping one of these into my truck as well. did you have to shorten the drivers side that much? i am trying to mount my current coils on it.

I didn't shorten the drivers side at all. Just the passenger side.

 

[bobbywalter]

Full width with my wheel base just doesn't work here for wheeling. I think It would still be too wide with the H2's and I really don't feel like having to buy new wheels and new tires, my 36's are still 75% or better. It will end up being right around 62 1/2" WMS to WMS when it's done.

I'm going to be converting it to 5x5.5" bolt pattern and running a Superior gear and axle Super 88 kit in my explorer 8.8.
Going to be regearing both axles to 5.13

maybe something to consider.. look for a similar width rear 60 ff to install.

i only say this, as i suspect someday you will increase power and maybe tire size.

money ahead to do a 60 now i mean...if you think the 8.8 is ok then the d35 with some rcv shafts made to order and the big hub 44 outers ought to be fine right? plenty strong right?

when you buy the CUSTOM 8.8 beef up shit you are married to it..eventually its a loss. finding those parts at a junkyard, or some bartering with a farmer with parts trucks to get by on a saturday or sunday is no longer a possibility.

ff 60's are like mosquitos.



i wouldnt narrow a 60 if i could get away with it... but its necessary in many applications...nice job on the 3 pass and bbq grill install with the c

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

maybe something to consider.. look for a similar width rear 60 ff to install.

i only say this, as i suspect someday you will increase power and maybe tire size.

money ahead to do a 60 now i mean...if you think the 8.8 is ok then the d35 with some rcv shafts made to order and the big hub 44 outers ought to be fine right? plenty strong right?

when you buy the CUSTOM 8.8 beef up shit you are married to it..eventually its a loss. finding those parts at a junkyard, or some bartering with a farmer with parts trucks to get by on a saturday or sunday is no longer a possibility.

ff 60's are like mosquitos.



i wouldnt narrow a 60 if i could get away with it... but its necessary in many applications...nice job on the 3 pass and bbq grill install with the c

Plans have changed a bit anyway. Picking up a Sterling 10.25 tomorrow and will be narrowing up the long side and running 2 short side shafts in it. That will get it right around 63" wms to wms....close enough to my narrowed up d60 for me.

Figured for all the machining it was going to take to convert the d60 5on5.5 just wasn't worth it. It will all be staying 8 bolt and probably running h2 wheels. Shooting for a tire size of 37-38", probably MTR Kevlars.

 

[bobbywalter]

goood gaaawd man.....talk about one extreme to another!!!




















you didnt uhhh.....join the taliban or something did ya??


ya got to have floaters for getting stupid...now ya can get stupid!!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Hey...I only want to have to build it once....might as well go for the gusto!

It's going to be an expensive winter that is for sure....

 

[wahlstrom1]

Your now in the same boat as me! Grab an oar, this rowing crap is tiring!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Haven't posted in a while in this one...

Picked up 2 Sterling 10.25's. One is a 1994 axle the other is a 1985 axle.

I'm using the 94 as it was in better overall shape. I needed the shortside shaft out of the other one anyways.

I got the housing stripped, steam cleaned and cut up. I cut 3" off the long side and 1/2" off the short side (trimmed the axle splines down to get 1/2" more on each side)

Something interesting about the Sterling...the inside of the axle tubes tapers as they leave the center section. The measure 1/2" thick 3.5" diameter where they are pressed into the center section

And where I made my cuts the tubes are just a hair over 1/4" thick!

Kinda odd to me...

I'm going to be machining a sleeve to fit inside of the tubes that will get plug welded to the tubes and then the but welds will get buzzed up.

 

[--weezl--]

when you are going to have this on the truk?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Hopefully by the spring

 

[azbronco2]

I am coming to canada to wheel lol

 

[--weezl--]

I am coming to canada to wheel lol

wehre?

 

[azbronco2]

I should of said I want to come to canada and wheel

 

[gwaii]

I should of said I want to come to canada and wheel

it's a big country.

i think weez was wondering which region you were looking at.


ryan,i've got one concern with your rear axle...i've measured several shafts to see how much free spline there is left to slide the axle in further.

you can see the dark bit of the spline on this one is all that wasn't engaged,and those i've measured have from 1/4-3/8'' available.

the base diameter of the shaft behind the splines is larger than the root diameter,so the shaft won't slide in further.what will happen if nothing else is done is that when the shaft is bolted into the hub it will have from 1/8-1/4'' of compression...not a good thing.

check these measurements carefully,especially if you'll be looking at an aftermarket carrier like a detroit or some such thing.don't want a massive failure on the trail from a load on the side gears.