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My Shifter install


T-cases are pretty simple inside. Even if you did get a dud used 1354, chances are good you could rebuild it using parts from your electric 1354, as pretty much everything aside from the shift mechanism is the same on them

Thats what I did. Put the 6 gear planetary, output, oil pump, and shift collars from my electric into my old 4 gear 1354 manual.


-PlumCrazy
 
Well, the other thing is I have very little mechanical experience on large items...IE - swapping a t-case. Although I did do a direct swap replacing a t-case with an identical one with only the help of my brother on a Jeep Cherokee a few years ago.

The Shiftster is an easy project that requires only basic mechanic knowledge. Plus it's unique.

If you don't like it, stop posting in my thread :icon_thumby:
 
You already know I'm likin' it! James Bond meets Rube Goldberg, with a side of Monty Python. Plus you KNOW it's ALWAYS going to shift INTO (and OUT of) 4WD! :icon_thumby:

I started sketching out my cable-recoil-spring kluge/idea for a t-case shiftster, but it morphed into a true sports car type e-brake instead... which is what the Ranger has been missing all along. Even the old Courier/B2000 under-duh-dash parking brake was WAY better than the ratcheting pedal.


PLUMcrazy: Any pointers for how to do a "field evaluation" of a t-case, both in and out of the vehicle, say when you're out at the U-pull-it, drowning in your own sweat, (silently) cursing the lot owners for allowing feral cats to ruin the only choice pair of Mustang seats out there... what tends to "go" on Ye Olde 13-54s? :dunno:
 
So what do you mean by 4x4 controller? I would surely love for mine to stop blinking... Do you have to disconnect the switch? Or can I just leave that alone? I only have one wire under my truck holding it in after I unplugged the shift motor. Is that normal? The shhiftster page said I'd have three. And right now my motor is bungie corded to the cross member because I'm afraid to cut any wires till I can buy my shiftster lol
 
So what do you mean by 4x4 controller? I would surely love for mine to stop blinking... Do you have to disconnect the switch? Or can I just leave that alone? I only have one wire under my truck holding it in after I unplugged the shift motor. Is that normal? The shhiftster page said I'd have three. And right now my motor is bungie corded to the cross member because I'm afraid to cut any wires till I can buy my shiftster lol

Don't cut any wires, just unplug the motor and leave the wires as is. That one wire left is a ground wire (I think). Take pictures and post on here if you need verification.

The 4wd controller is in the dash behind the radio to the left. I guess it also controls power windows and things or something, but I don't have power anything so I didn't have to worry about that. If you unplug it, the light will stop flashing though as that's what is making it flash to begin with. I left my switch hooked up electrically, but stuffed behind the dash so no one plays with it thinking they are actually using the 4wd.
 
... I only have one wire under my truck holding it in after I unplugged the shift motor. Is that normal?

Yep, normal... is it a BROWN wire? If so, it may be same setup/connector as on my '99... in that case, do NOT cut the wire. Instead, look at the 8-wire connector (only 7-wires used, IIRC) end-on... you should see a red "bar" spanning the diameter of the plug.

That red "bar-thaang" is actually a locking tab/blade that can be extracted with a tiny screwdriver and/or fine needle nose pliers--comes all the way out. This loosens up the "grip" the connector has on the wires. You'll still need to jink around to get that one wire loose and backed out, but it can be done.

Not sure about getting the brown wire back in... still deciding whether to get new motor, used motor, manual conversion, or... SHIFSTER! :icon_confused: (Luckily I've become completely oblivious to the blinking 4HI & 4LO lights, lol. )
 
Yep, normal... is it a BROWN wire? If so, it may be same setup/connector as on my '99... in that case, do NOT cut the wire. Instead, look at the 8-wire connector (only 7-wires used, IIRC) end-on... you should see a red "bar" spanning the diameter of the plug.

That red "bar-thaang" is actually a locking tab/blade that can be extracted with a tiny screwdriver and/or fine needle nose pliers--comes all the way out. This loosens up the "grip" the connector has on the wires. You'll still need to jink around to get that one wire loose and backed out, but it can be done.

Not sure about getting the brown wire back in... still deciding whether to get new motor, used motor, manual conversion, or... SHIFSTER! :icon_confused: (Luckily I've become completely oblivious to the blinking 4HI & 4LO lights, lol. )

You know my vote - Shiftster! I've been loving mine. Even with having to mess with my poorly made access panel it's been great. Can't wait till I get the time to fab up the new one, I'll post pics when it's done. :icon_welder:
 
I hear ya... but I can't let go of my Ranger U-pick "fantasy", lol. In my fantasy, I finally drag myself to the U-pull-it lot, and find a "minty" FX4-Level II, wrecked in some mostly inconsequential way, but "totaled" by ins. company. :icon_rofl:

So... of course I pluck the cool seats, wheels, main shift lever, T-CASE SHIFT LEVER, and related linkages, t-case itself, entire rear axle, yadda-yadda... :yahoo:

Sadly, the way I keep this unreal fantasy "alive" is by making excuses to NOT go to U-yank-it, We-search-your-toolbox®... i.e. I have to get there on just the right day, lulz. :icon_twisted:
 
Finally got around to fabricating a better access panel.

1/8" 1x1 angle iron frame, Lexan panel, magnet latch, vinyl adhesive door seal :headbang: :icon_welder:

Note: Both photos did have time stamps, but when I cropped them only one stayed in. :icon_thumby:
 

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great idea. I still have 60/40 seat, but also share your idea of a trap door. dont know why anyone would wanna change a sound t-case just cuz its manual shift. I got manual hubs and gotta get out anyway, but like the idea of shifting from 4h to 4lo without getting out of vehicle.
 
great idea. I still have 60/40 seat, but also share your idea of a trap door. dont know why anyone would wanna change a sound t-case just cuz its manual shift. I got manual hubs and gotta get out anyway, but like the idea of shifting from 4h to 4lo without getting out of vehicle.

Exactly. I know my t-case works perfect so why would I change it out just to convert to manual when all I had to do was get a shiftster and put in an access panel?
 
EPIC!! I can hear the Batman theme music, the number they play when roaring out of the Bat-cave. :icon_hornsup:

Bonus points for the "Country Style" WOODen knob! :icon_thumby:

Hopefully this solves your noise and air leakage issues.


PS: just saw this, been off TRS awhile...
 
EPIC!! I can hear the Batman theme music, the number they play when roaring out of the Bat-cave. :icon_hornsup:

Bonus points for the "Country Style" WOODen knob! :icon_thumby:

Hopefully this solves your noise and air leakage issues.


PS: just saw this, been off TRS awhile...

It did solve all the issues. Also, this truck is for sale now...see signature.
 

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