My Shifter install

[joecool85]

So my 4wd motor decided not to let me play in 4 low. It's tough pulling trees with a 3.0 5spd stuck in high range...poor clutch. So, not wanting another complex problem to arise later down the road if I replaced my shift motor (like wiring or the 4wd controller or switch), I decided to go with a Shifter.

Also, I didn't like the idea of getting under the truck all the time for 4wd...so I cut my seat to remove the "middle seat" (still need to sew up the edge) and then put a hole in my floor. No carpet for me, so that wasn't an issue. I made a door with the piece I cut out.

I also unplugged my 4wd controller so it would stop blinking the 4wd high and low lights every 5 minutes and disconnected my 4wd switch and put it behind the dash. If I ever wanted to go back to electric switching, all I'd have to do is reinstall the switch, plug in the controller and buy a new shift motor - everything is still there.

**edit**
New access panel: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1355014#post1355014

 

[fixizin]

HIGH-larious! If Jim Oaks had a "Mod O' The Month" prize, I'd surely nominate you.

Also, the opportunity to place comedic sayings around the "hatch" are endless, LOL.

HUBS: Sorry if I missed that in another thread but... did you just manually lock the PVHubs full-time, or...?


PS: How's the water-tightness of your hatch? I think I see daylight in the underneath view.

 

[joecool85]

HIGH-larious! If Jim Oaks had a "Mod O' The Month" prize, I'd surely nominate you.

Also, the opportunity to place comedic sayings around the "hatch" are endless, LOL.

HUBS: Sorry if I missed that in another thread but... did you just manually lock the PVHubs full-time, or...?


PS: How's the water-tightness of your hatch? I think I see daylight in the underneath view.

No locking hubs on my truck, they are solid. If I had PVH I would have done the manual locking push button mod (not sure if I read about that here or another Ranger forum).

The access door doesn't seal well at all and blows hot air at me while I'm driving down the road. Once I get the Escort seats in I will be fabricating a better door solution, probably hinged as opposed to removable as it is now.

 

[4x4junkie]

I built a door not too different from yours (bigger) for access to the batteries under the back seat on my BII. I framed the entire opening from underneath with 3/4" wide strip steel (1/8" thick), and again around the edge of the door itself, then put closed-cell foam weatherstripping around the edge. Hinged at the back. Has worked pretty good for some years now.

 

[joecool85]

I built a door not too different from yours (bigger) for access to the batteries under the back seat on my BII. I framed the entire opening from underneath with 3/4" wide strip steel (1/8" thick), and again around the edge of the door itself, then put closed-cell foam weatherstripping around the edge. Hinged at the back. Has worked pretty good for some years now.

Nice work, I'm impressed. I'm thinking I'll need to do something similar to mine when I re-do it. Thanks for the idea

 

[Kevery]

that shifter is f****n awsome! alittle incovenient but awsome.

 

[joecool85]

that shifter is f****n awsome! alittle incovenient but awsome.

Thanks. It's not too bad, but will be much more convenient once I get in the new seats and refab the door.

 

[fixizin]

I hear James Bond music.

Now I have to go look up 4x4junkie's BII thread... obviously he needs major AMPerage.

 

[fixizin]

No locking hubs on my truck, they are solid.

Oh, that's right... happened about midway through 2000 model year, IIRC.

 

[joecool85]

Thanks. It's not too bad, but will be much more convenient once I get in the new seats and refab the door.

I have the driver's side Escort seat in, passenger side probably won't make it in till winter. It gives me another 1.5" of clearance for the door. It also sits almost exactly 1" taller than the stock seat.

I have big plans for the new access panel, should be slick. I'll keep everyone here posted as it comes along.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Oh, that's right... happened about midway through 2000 model year, IIRC.

Will it be as "slick" as swapping in manual case?lol. If you watch CL they can be had for 50 bucks.

-PlumCrazy

 

[joecool85]

Will it be as "slick" as swapping in manual case?lol. If you watch CL they can be had for 50 bucks.

-PlumCrazy

Better. I get to keep my known good transfer case instead of using a sketchy/older craigslist one. Less time too. People keep mentioning manual tcase swaps, which are great, but you still have to cut holes in your floor for the lever and get that whole assembly and install it. I dunno, doesn't seem worth it when I can get a shiftster, cut a whole in my floor and make a nifty access panel and keep using my own tcase.

 

[PlumCrazy]

You don't have put a hole in the actual floor for a manual case, just on the removable filler panel.

-PlumCrazy

 

[joecool85]

You don't have put a hole in the actual floor for a manual case, just on the removable filler panel.

-PlumCrazy

And it's still more work and you are still left hoping the "new-to-you" t-case is any good. Plus with the Shiftster, I could always go back to an electric t-case if I wanted to for resale purposes - just put in a new motor, plug the 4wd controller back in and remount the 4wd switch on the dash.

 

[4x4junkie]

T-cases are pretty simple inside. Even if you did get a dud used 1354, chances are good you could rebuild it using parts from your electric 1354, as pretty much everything aside from the shift mechanism is the same on them.

I hear James Bond music.

Now I have to go look up 4x4junkie's BII thread... obviously he needs major AMPerage.

lol
The batteries are mostly for the winch and for extra capacity to run various lights and my fridge while camping.