My New House & Workshop

[ryan]

Fill it with concrete and you've got a poor mans bollard

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Fill it with concrete and you've got a poor mans bollard

I think he already has that...

 

[Rick W]

And hammer at least one piece of rebar down through the bottom. Without the rebar, if you hit the post hard enough, the concrete will crack, and then you’ve got nothing more than the PVC pipe anyway. A piece of rebar down the center will greatly improve the strength of the whole thing. Having said that, if you’ve got a piece of steel pipe or conduit or something, you could save the price of the rebar, it just won’t last as long.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

And hammer at least one piece of rebar down through the bottom. Without the rebar, if you hit the post hard enough, the concrete will crack, and then you’ve got nothing more than the PVC pipe anyway. A piece of rebar down the center will greatly improve the strength of the whole thing. Having said that, if you’ve got a piece of steel pipe or conduit or something, you could save the price of the rebar, it just won’t last as long.

PVC will get brittle and fall apart when exposed to sunlight anyway.

 

[Rick W]

PVC will get brittle and fall apart when exposed to sunlight anyway.

That’s why God gave us rustoleum!

 

[Jim Oaks]

Seems crazy to fill this hole in with concrete when the concrete around it is so screwed up, but I just don't have the money to rip up the concrete around it this close to Christmas.

This whole corner is kind of sunken down. I wanted to make it level with the rest of the concrete, but then it would have stuck up to high.

Maybe I'll dig up the other broken sections next year. Reminds me of a highway job where they cut up and repair the bad sections before pouring a new road surface over it.

The concrete's only 2-3 inches thick. I dug that hole 18-inches down and left an 8-inch space between the top of the stump and the bottom of the old concrete. I put in a layer of broken concrete at the bottom, then gravel, and then topped it with 4-inches of concrete. The bags of concrete that went in that hole weighed more than I do.

I guess I should start hooking these wires up.

 

[franklin2]

Seems crazy to fill this hole in with concrete when the concrete around it is so screwed up, but I just don't have the money to rip up the concrete around it this close to Christmas.

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This whole corner is kind of sunken down. I wanted to make it level with the rest of the concrete, but then it would have stuck up to high.

Maybe I'll dig up the other broken sections next year. Reminds me of a highway job where they cut up and repair the bad sections before pouring a new road surface over it.

The concrete's only 2-3 inches thick. I dug that hole 18-inches down and left an 8-inch space between the top of the stump and the bottom of the old concrete. I put in a layer of broken concrete at the bottom, then gravel, and then topped it with 4-inches of concrete. The bags of concrete that went in that hole weighed more than I do.

View attachment 136633​

I guess I should start hooking these wires up.

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View attachment 136635​

Do you have any short pieces of 2 inch left over? Technically, you should not have any exposed romex inside the building, especially a garage. You could run a short piece of 2 inch from the panel up through the ceiling and try to fish those wires through it. Or 2 pieces of conduit. Problem is, your panel probably only has one large knock out in the top middle.

You could even take two 1x2's or something and screw them to the wall above the panel, and then screw a piece of plywood or luan over them, or even a piece of sheetmetal, and put the wires in that. Just something to cover them over. If you did that, you could punch the individual knock outs out of the top and use individual romex connectors for the wires.

 

[MyOld88]

I changed the title to 'My new house'.

The discussion starts on page 11.



I'm looking at a piece of property and thinking about having a home built on it. Metal homes are becoming popular, as well as barndominiums.

​

I know a couple having a barndominium built out of metal. Basically it's a metal building built on a concrete slab with wood framed interior walls. They're going to leave their floors concrete and polish them.

Just wondering if anyone has built or had a home built, especially out of metal, and if you had any advice.

I changed the title to 'My new house'.

The discussion starts on page 11.



I'm looking at a piece of property and thinking about having a home built on it. Metal homes are becoming popular, as well as barndominiums.

​

I know a couple having a barndominium built out of metal. Basically it's a metal building built on a concrete slab with wood framed interior walls. They're going to leave their floors concrete and polish them.

Just wondering if anyone has built or had a home built, especially out of metal, and if you had any advice.

I’ve looked at the same thing to put back on a farm I have in Eastern NC. Being a telephone man by trade my advice would be to make sure to put in plenty of conduit pathways to the exterior from each direction so you can have access post slab pour to inside areas that might not be convenient/aesthetically pleasing from the outside. PVC is inexpensive but really valuable when you need access. Use 90 degree “sweeps” so it is easy to place future facilities, be it water, fiber, electrical, etc. Just joined TRS, but have enjoyed reading some in the past. If I can be of any help, telephony, or fiber optic wise, please just LMK. Thanks, Bob Stone

 

[Jim Oaks]

Do you have any short pieces of 2 inch left over? Technically, you should not have any exposed romex inside the building, especially a garage. You could run a short piece of 2 inch from the panel up through the ceiling and try to fish those wires through it. Or 2 pieces of conduit. Problem is, your panel probably only has one large knock out in the top middle.

You could even take two 1x2's or something and screw them to the wall above the panel, and then screw a piece of plywood or luan over them, or even a piece of sheetmetal, and put the wires in that. Just something to cover them over. If you did that, you could punch the individual knock outs out of the top and use individual romex connectors for the wires.

Ya, I've been working out how I'm going to do this.

The panel has plenty of knockouts on top along with a big one in the middle

First I was going to use some 3/4" conduit and have about 6 of them running between the box and the ceiling, but I have to move away from the wall because the conduit will run into a ceiling joist.

Then I decided to use a section of 2-inch PVC from the middle that will clear the joist in the ceiling. I wish I had put that 2-inch in before securing the panel. I have to make the hole bigger. It hits the joist when I stick it up in there at an angle.

I guess I could cut the conduit in 1/2, stick 1/2 up through the hole, and then drop it down into a coupling to connect them.

The conduit is 15-inches long, and I currently have (9) 12/2 runs in there. From what I figured out, the limit is (8). However, since the conduit is less than 24-inches, the nipple rule says I can go 60% instead of 40% and run (12).

Or.... I could remove the jacket from the wire and be fine in any of those requirements.

The black wire is 8/2 for the thankless water heater. Not sure yet if there's room in the 2-inch conduit if I get rid of the 12/2 wire jacket. If not I'll stick it in some 3/4" conduit.

Once this is all done I'm going to have to repair my ceiling where I originally pulled the wire through.

 

[franklin2]

Stripping the covering on the romex would give you plenty of space like you said. But that covering is a excellent place to mark the circuits on the wire using a sharpie. If you stripe the covering off you will have to mark all the wires somehow, and since you are going to use ground fault breakers you can't let the white wires get mixed up either, they have to be kept with their black wire.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Ya, all of my romex is labeled. if you go up in the ceiling access where the junction boxes are the wires going in and out are labeled.

If I strip the covering off I'll do them one by one. Tape them together with some electrical tape so I can keep them sorted, and put some painters tape on the ends with the runs labeled so I know what is what.