All the stuff you did is great, first class. Congrats!
On the wires, running through the old box, part of me wants to say “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it,” if the wires are not moving, how could they get grounded out, but I actually never had much luck with that approach.
The electricians in the group can probably guide you better, but I remember there were little bushings or sleeves that you used in the end of an old BX cable (the old flexible metal cable), and I think there was a similar bushing you put in the end of the more modern flexible conduit that’s metal with vinyl outside. They were to protect the wires pulled from the sharp edges at the end of the BX or conduit. Those bushings look like an old-fashioned formal top hat like Fred Astaire would wear, with the top of the hat open. So there was a sleeve, and there was a flange to catch, so it didn’t just fall through the hole. I would imagine you could take one of those, and simply slice one side, and then carefully work it in around those wires. The real trick would be not to ground the wires while you were trying to protect the wires.
From the rest of the work you did, I think you could cut off the power to that panel, and just number the wires on the left one, two, three, etc. with some masking tape, tape matching numbers on the breakers, take them loose and then work the sleeve around them and through the hole. The one on the left looks pretty tight, but the one on the bottom right looks like you’ve got room to play with, and I think there’s a single wire in the bottom on the left. Then just reconnect the wires.
The aluminum piece behind the panel, maybe you could pry it up with a screwdriver or a little pry bar and just insert a piece of plastic or vinyl cut out of a 5 gallon pail or something like that, just to provide some protection from the sheet metal.
On the “bollard,” I don’t think pouring concrete in that little conduit would last if you hit it with a bicycle. I had the thought that you could run a piece of rebar down, but I still don’t think it would hold up at all. If you get a piece of 3 inch or 4 inch PVC pipe, and some rebar, you could bend three pieces of the rebar in an L shape where the long piece goes inside the conduit, and the short piece radiates out on the bottom in different directions. Maybe even drill a hole in the treetop and have one stuck in there. Then, if you pour concrete around the bottom of that bollard, and you fill it with concrete, and pour concrete around it on the top of the surface, it would work a little better. Having said that, I’ve never seen any of that really work if you bump them with a vehicle unless they were made out of steel and they went three or 4 feet into the ground. Maybe you could drill a hole with a post hole digger? Anyway, you get the idea on that, but my personal opinion is you’re wasting your time with that 2 inch piece. I’d also run it tall enough that you could see it through the windshield easily, or if you keep it short, maybe put a little flag or something in the top so you can tell when you touched it. Again, you get the idea.
It makes the fiberglass fibers in your concrete regardless of what you do. I think it’s called fiber Crete. Even in the 2 inch conduit it will make it much stronger about snapping if you just push it.
I hope it helps
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