My dealer is a dick and other musings.

[Purple]

I called and asked for a part number.


"We don't give out part numbers".

So I told them "Well I don't give out money", and hung up the phone.

It was the MANAGER...too!

Anyway, my rear cab mounts are shot.

Any tips or tricks on replacing them?

Are the dorman ones any good??

 

[ZMan]

Dorman re-pops cab mounts now? Man where were those 10 years ago? I would say the dorman ones are probably good, go with them. Ya that was a kinda a dick move by the parts manager, but did you have intentions on buying a part from them?

 

[97RangerXLT]

some tips...

Tools you will need: angle grinder or die grinder, 2 lb mini sledge and steel drift, safety glasses, cold chisel, hacksaw and a handy list of cusswords and the will and knowledge to use them profusely while removing the old hangers.

Grind each rivet flush with the hanger and pound it out with the mini sledge and drift. You will get the most use out of the cussword list on the driver side rear hanger, as it is right next to the gas tank.

I would use the hacksaw or a sawsall on those as they will not throw out as many sparks. you might also wrap the tank with a wet bath or beach towel, or remove the tank from the truck. be careful..

AJ

 

[adsm08]

I called and asked for a part number.


"We don't give out part numbers".

So I told them "Well I don't give out money", and hung up the phone.

It was the MANAGER...too!

Hmm. That sounds a lot like my parts manager. He has a standing policy against just giving out part numbers for two reasons.

1) It usually means the person calling is looking for the part but doesn't want to buy it from us, and is having trouble finding the part without the OEM number.

2) We have had a few of those people call us up mad after we gave them a number and they bought the wrong part after copying the number down wrong.


Anyway, yes, the Dorman parts are probably good. Dorman makes good stuff.

 

[black_demon69]

I called and asked for a part number.


"We don't give out part numbers".

So I told them "Well I don't give out money", and hung up the phone.

It was the MANAGER...too!

Anyway, my rear cab mounts are shot.

Any tips or tricks on replacing them?

Are the dorman ones any good??

even better when you google it while asking them for part # that is supposedly is discontinued and can't get anymore then you give him the number he then askes how you got it and you say google

 

[Mark_88]

I found through reading a similar thread that there is a difference between standard and extended cab mounts...so that should be a standard question they ask when looking up the part...but make sure they do check...

And after learning the driver side rear mount is the worst...I might just get a big washer welded onto mine and call it a day...

The spring mounts on the driver side on mine are also just about crumbled...so I will be looking for ways to get that done soon enough also...

 

[Purple]

Luckily someone has replaced all 4 spring shackles.

Thing is...the mount has one bolt on the top of the frame, the rest are rivets.

Dunno why ford just didn't use bolts. Probably save them 39 cents a truck.

 

[Purple]

So do I need to undo the front bolts and jack the cab up somewhat?

I don't want to end up flexing and bending the cab.

 

[Mark_88]

Probably not, but loosening the mid mount on the same side will help give you a bit more clearance. The front mounts are probably fine but...see how much room you have and if you need more then loosening the front might need to happen...probably not though.

Mine are all still loose so I was hoping to get at the cab mount before they all rust again...lol. I didn't actually see a bolt or rivet on the top of my 96 cab mounts...but, then again...there were so many things going on I might have missed that.

Jacking up the cab or doing any work around the gas tank calls for a bit of caution as mentioned...I removed the tank and the bed when I did my cab swap so I didn't have to worry too much about that either.

 

[Purple]

I don't get it...

Looking at ford's website...one cab mount costs about 40 dollars more than the other, and they are the same!

 

[Mark_88]

When I cut mine off the first time I went to Ford to buy replacements...they were $80 each just for the rubber and sleeves...that worked out to about $500 for six mounting hardware sets...outrageous...

But the rears are a bit more complex and actually use a longer rubber and metal sleeve. So it is twice as long as the front and middle mounts...

 

[willy]

http://www.fordparts.com/ has all the ford part numbers no need to call a dealer

 

[Will]

Rivets are a stronger connection. When you drive them, they swell when you are driving them and fill the entire hole. Better grip, better for keeping water out of the joint, plus a lot faster to install than bolt. They really are much better in every way than a bolt for putting sheet metal parts together. They suck to remove for a regular joe, though.

A $300 air chisel cleans them off in seconds. A cheaper one will do it if you use a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder to cut an X in the head. Or you can grind for 20 minutes.

A 3# hammer is the standard mini sledge. I have an 8# hammer thanks to my brother who is a lawyer and useless in every other way. He tried to help me split wood about 15 years ago and his first swing at the wedge created for me the best tool I have ever owned. Go buy an 8# sledge and cut it down to an 8" handle and use that for everything from hanging pictures to punching rivets. It's much more awesome than the 3#'er.