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My Build, All Parts And Prices ***2016 Updated*** still not done...


Heater box - Was told 94' and older had a different firewall and 95+ Non A/C is same size as AC box. I'll take pics, but I just cut and modded it until it fit.... it's now slightly smaller then a Non A/C box. AC pump on the 6.0L is in the frame rail when mounted.... I'll just crack the windows.

K member - Not as in the way as much as I thought it would be, axle tucks under it, diff clears it, engine sits in it... and it's there already, lol.

Steering - Going with outside frame box, Toyota/GM.... whatever works.

Cooling - I'll be opening up the inside of the core support to allow as much cooling as possible. A griffin rad with fans is $500ish... money well spent if it works, and fits as nicely as I hope.

Exhaust - Over the rail headers (1.75" down tubes) with 2.5" exhaust run under the body and exiting through the boxside in front of the tires.

Thanks for the support Bobby, means a lot! :icon_cheers:
 
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well. i can say this much.


after looking at this. i am not so sure if i want to diesel my daughters project. seriously considering a tuned 4.8....

unless i can get a 3.7 stang engine and trans cheap. really impressed with that thing in the new f truck....impressed being relative of course :D

compared to a 4.3/305 stock truck 300/302 stock truck.



keep up the good work:icon_cheers: i am thinking of only drinking imported canadian water from gwaii now....:icon_hornsup:
 
Heater box:
Cut down
Formed some plastic
Stitched from inside with zip ties
Gooped for airtightness and painted

Photo014.jpg
 
hmmm..... I'm still trying to figure out how to get A/C with that motor in there....
 
hmmm..... I'm still trying to figure out how to get A/C with that motor in there....

shit...thats cake.


he can pop the oem condensor in the and mod the factory cover and make that work...great to see:icon_cheers:
 
if he busts a mount wheelin it could get ugly though:icon_surprised:
 
hell maybe i will buy a new ranger and do this
 
Note for those considering the swap:

-Car oil pans have a sump that's too long to fit without hacking the K-member.
-Truck pans have have a sump that sits below the K-member (rock magnet)
-H3 pans are like truck pans, but have a shallower sump...

That's what you want if you don't get an aftermarket pan.

Next, the engine clears without any bodylift (surprising!) but the NV4500 is a sledgehammer fit and the NP241 is causing me grief, probably gonna need some floor surgery... Or a small bodylift.
 
Note for those considering the swap:

-Car oil pans have a sump that's too long to fit without hacking the K-member.
-Truck pans have have a sump that sits below the K-member (rock magnet)
-H3 pans are like truck pans, but have a shallower sump...

That's what you want if you don't get an aftermarket pan.

Next, the engine clears without any bodylift (surprising!) but the NV4500 is a sledgehammer fit and the NP241 is causing me grief, probably gonna need some floor surgery... Or a small bodylift.


241 is as bad as a 208 with the 700/4l80 and no b/l, actually an 80 wont fit without a b/l or floor mod. but dumping the oem k and lowering the engine 1-1.5 inch has a give/take to allow some cushion to mitigate that.


no matter what you will have to build some thoughful armor for under there

i would run a 1.5-2 in b/l regardless. so i would have some ease.


the oil pan issues with these is always the assbiter, and to make things worse, they do bust easy unfortunately. i would likely run a girdle and metal pan. no matter what jb weld in a good quantity is something to have for trail repairs on any powertrain combination. shit might run with a crack or hole popped in it...wont go far without lube though.:dunno:
 
Ya, unfortunately I see a 2" B/L coming my way... But it will help make room for a doubler later on. The nice thing about running the exhaust down the outside of the frame is that if I can get away with a fairly skinny driveshaft I may be able to run dual fuel tanks... But that may be wishful thinking.
 
Andrew, is there any reason you are leaving the stock k member in? I was thinking of just chopping mine out, and building a new one
 
He's a glutton for punishment :icon_bounceblue:
 
Well I have the lower front flap trimmed as much as I can and really none of the rest is in the way. My engine mounts from the 6.0L line up on it, the third member clears it, the axle tube tucks inside and I didn't have to touch it at all for oil pan clearance... I have no real reason to get rid of it?

And beyond anything else... It gives me a solid baseline to know where I've gotten to from stock.
 
oh ok. I had to run the truck oil pan on my 68 too. I was just thinking that maybe the car pan would've worked since it has the double sump and is a lot shallower
 
Also, on the NP241, is it a Passenger drop?
 

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