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My Build, All Parts And Prices ***2016 Updated*** still not done...


Nope, it's a drivers drop from the same 96' K2500 I got the tranny from.
 
hmm.... You happen to know if the 88 K2500 is the same?

edit:

How are you going to mount the older style trans to the gen 3 engine?
 
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Think 89 was the first year chevy switched to IFS?
 
Think 89 was the first year chevy switched to IFS?

you may be right. The truck is the first year if the IFS, so it is either an 88 or 89
 
Yup, yours will be the same and 88' was the major switch to IFS with the blazers/burbans and 1 tons following a few years after. Only thing different between the old and new is one bolt hole thats not used on the Gen II block. Kinda like swapping an M5OD-HD behind an OHV 4.0L.
 
the auto's need a conversion flywheel, that's why i was asking
 
What are you doing about the wiring? I am still trying to figure out how i am going to run the Ranger's electronics with the Silverado's PCM. I plan on switching all the guages to autometer (or equivelant), but i am more concerned with things like power windows, lights, stuff like that
 
The Gen III's run a seperate engine PCM like the ranger does, in 97' anyways. I left my fuse box and everything intact. I just have to use my spare 4.0L's sensors and wire them back into the main harness plug. I'm going to see what I can use from the chevy stuff and if it's compatible with the rangers guage sweep as the Gen III's usually run more accurate guages compared to the rangers dummy guages.

I hate wiring though, so I have a buddy who's damn near a prodigy with electrical handling that end of things in trade for fabbing sliders/bumpers on his solid axle 95' diesel Tahoe.
 
What are you doing about the wiring? I am still trying to figure out how i am going to run the Ranger's electronics with the Silverado's PCM. I plan on switching all the guages to autometer (or equivelant), but i am more concerned with things like power windows, lights, stuff like that

depends on system, but very cost effective for aftermarket.


leave the rangers non engine systems intact, run the ls stand alone.


with the latest systems involving stability control it could be a real issue for a ranger owner. but for most sas guys, you can run the gm powertrain control system intact and go as old school as possible behind the engine emmissions controls(just look at your truck once from the outside, dont know if you ever noticed it is not exactly stock)...abs is nice for snow, but for the most part i want nothing to do with the government nazi nanny car control horseshit.

government involvement in safety controls beyond 1997 levels is absurd by any stretch imo

fuk the government.

i want my vehicle to do what i want WHEN I WANT....lockers on abs off when i want....gear i want when i want.



not sure of your concerns with using the gm mill in any case for that big bitch you drive all over gods beautiful earth.?
 
I hate abs in snow. And general I find the mud is the same as the snow. I've never had anything with abs until last year with my 06 f150 and that fuse got pulled out about a week into owning the truck
 
abs is great on the road imo. and, unnecessary and makes people even more useless as drivers i would add though.
:D
 
thanks for making it simpler Bobby. I am having Howell build the harness and flash the PCM. The more i think about it, the more i think that is what i did for the 68. I kept all the 68's wiring, and the engine was totally separate.
 
FLAT BELLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And thats with the NV4500 and NP241 in place!

Photo027.jpg


Ride height

Photo028.jpg


Nice and easy to get to the bellhousing bolts now....

Photo026.jpg




Measures out at 26.5" to the frame, 5' 1" to the top of the fender up front and 82" to the roof!
 
Here's what the view from the under side should look like....

Red - Axle
Green - Drive shaft
Blue - Links
Orange - Traction Bar
Yellow - Fuel Tank, the rest is factory skidded

Crawlin.jpg
 

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