My 87 Ranger I will be restoring soon I want to keep track of my progress and add information as I find it.

[Terrys87]

Video I found from 07. from rangerstation I thought was great. I will look up original member and give him credit. I was unable to find actual post.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Have you checked for leaking injectors? Disconnect the coil and injector, turn engine over. You want pressure to the injectors but not have them turn on. Pull sparkplugs and see if any are wet with fuel.

 

[Terrys87]

@alwaysFlOoReD Thanks. Something I have not thought of trying but I understand why. That is a great idea. I am looking at injectors and O2 sensor next. Thanks again!!

 

[Terrys87]

I think I gave $64 for this smoke machine off of Amazon. Great little machine.

Biggest leak around air filter.

Every once in a while, I did get a whisp of smoke around the hose to the PCV. I suspected it was a leak

I originally replaced my TPS with a Standard brand. I feel Standard is a great brand for aftermarket but I wondered if when I replaced it, there is a minor adjustment when installing the TPS and I did not do that when I installed it. I put a Throttle Body Assembly from another motor on just to see if it will fix the conflict between the IAC and MAP???

I have to prime system by turning key on and off a couple of times. I have already replaced the tank pump. Finally got this frame one installed. Seems to start without priming now.

The had to get into the shop before it got too hot today. Temperature ran me out by 10:30.

 

[Terrys87]

Got this seat out of the boneyard for the base for my new to me air lumbar seats. I need to make up a wire harness for the air pumps. The red bed is getting my attention. I need to get it bed lined soon.

 

[scotts90ranger]

With a MAP sensor the ONLY vacuum leak that changes how the engine runs is if it is between the intake manifold and MAP sensor or if there's a restriction in that hose. With a system using a MAF sensor that's when vacuum leaks make a difference as they are metering air so any unmetered air makes a difference... The TPS doesn't do any fueling, it is sensing when you return to idle so it can enable the IAC and when you go to WOT to add extra fuel and disable air conditioning and stuff... For the most part aside from acceleration and deceleration fuel all fueling is going to be based on the MAP reading and engine speed (this coming from a calibration engineer, I don't know what the tables look like in these but I know how it "should" work).

With two banks both being rich it has to be something across the board like fuel pressure or MAP reading if I had to guess unless there's an issue with the O2 sensor heater or ground circuit causing it to see a low voltage at the sensor (it's a 0-1V signal after all, .45V is roughly stoichiometric ratio) and add fuel.

I haven't played with too many early injected Ford's but I'm pretty sure single wire was just carbureted and maybe some of the pre '85 stuff, I think they went to 3 wire sensors around then and switched to 4 wire in mid '90 (I know it's mid since my '90 is early and had a 3 wire but the parts stores list a 4 wire...)

 

[Terrys87]

Thanks @scotts90ranger I appreciate your insight. I looked at my O2 sensor and on the sensor side it is a 3 wire. I bought it and assumed it was the correct sensor and it plugged in with no problems. I was looking on Rockauto and they show a 3 and a 4 wire sensor. Later, when it cools off today I will disconnect the sensor and see if I have a 3 or 4 wire connector on the truck side. Beginning to think I have an O2 senosor issue. I would think the O2 sensor would tell the computer it is running rich, but these were the first try for EFI in all models of autos. Starting mostly in 85.

I agree with it being accross the board as it is on both banks and all 6 plugs. I just rented a Fuel Pressure test kit from Orielly. While truck was running, I disconnected the vacuum line on the FPR. It reved up and did have vacuum. When I plugged it in, idle came back down. A year or so ago, I replaced the FPR with a new part store one and it was bad out of the box. I have not put the test kit on the FPR yet and see what my pressure is. Got to wait until this evening or morning when it cools down outside. It is hot here.

Today I did some runniing around town and it runs great going down the highway and acclerates great (for a v6) and I was able to run 90 mph with no issues. It has always ran great on the road. I tried Wide Open Throttle in all gears,and could not hear or sense the AC Compressor kicking out, but that is not really a true test.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I just remembered this:
Try starting it with the gas pedal all the way to the floor. That is the clear flooded engine routine. If it tries to fire at all then there is one or more injectors leaking.

 

[SenorNoob]

I just remembered this:
Try starting it with the gas pedal all the way to the floor. That is the clear flooded engine routine. If it tries to fire at all then there is one or more injectors leaking.

Or the TPS is mis-adjusted. I think it's supposed to be under 1v with throttle fully closed.

 

[Terrys87]

@alwaysFlOoReD I disconnected the coil wire and cranked on it. It did not even try to start. I cranked on again for about 10 seconds (X2) trying to see if maybe a drop or two from a leaking injector would try to start for a second. It never tried to start.

I went to Orielly to borrow a Fuel Pressure Tester and their kit was missing the Shrader adapter so that was a no go. I will try another part store this week to see if they have a complete kit.

I am wondering with new carpet, padding and maybe a stretched throttle cable that it may not be getting WOT. With throttle 9?% of the way open, would that be enough to keep it from starting and try to unflood itself? I am running some injector cleaner thru the system, and I have a spare set of injectors I am going to clean and test later this week. I am getting a new O2 sensor, and I installed new water temp sensors when I first got the truck and thought I was doing a good thing. As most have ran into poor aftermarket parts, I wonder if I did not get bit by poor part quality. I am heading to the bone yard soon and getting factory parts in the next day or so.

@SenorNoob I had a spare Throttle Body with the factory TPS on it. I installed it and that solved the idling issue. When I installed the new Standard brand TPS, I did not think that there was an adjustment on it. Apparently, there is the slightest adjustment to it that I see on a video so will be looking into that a little bit more. Having a correctly installed/adjusted TPS made a world of difference on the truck. I wonder if the erratic idle you see on here, YouTube and elsewhere that several have problems with, besides the MAP sensor, that this is a common issue?

 

[Terrys87]

Well…. RATS!!! I went to part store to use a Fuel Pressure test kit and it is missing the Schrader adapter. Next part store is 20 minutes away and will go to them later this week.

I already ran some Lucas Fuel cleaner. On YouTube, I see this gets great reviews. Any suggestions on other brands to possibly clean my injectors? I see there is a thread on the site and looking thru it as well.

2 steps forward, and 1 back. I cleaned this seat up with the Dirt Devil dirt extractor. All happy with it until i sat in it. The right side in the back by my shoulder just feels like it is twisted. I’m not sure how to fix that. I have another seat so will clean it up and see.

 

[Terrys87]

I needed the base off if the junkyard seat for my driver side. It was dirty, surface rust and difficult to slide. I cleaned it up, painted and lubricated the slides. I also got the correct spring off of another seat in the yard to replace this clothes hanger fix. Slide us working great.

it is even stamped “Supercab” on bracket.

Here seat slide is all fixed. I just got to clean the other seat and move it over.

Fuel Pump Upgrade

Thread 'Can i use these?'

Jul 12, 2025

Some of you know that my B2s fuel system is kinda butchered.

Anyways....as of now my canister is gone and replaced by a regular fuel filter.

Ive heard the factory canister is actually more so the high pressure fuel pump doesnt get ahead of the low pressure in tank during high fuel demand situations.

I found these at an auction today...got them in a box full of other random shit for 10 bucks...

I know they are for fuel oil (didnt untill i bought them)...but seeing as how my fuel line is already rigged it wouldnt be hard to get some barbed fittings that screw into this and...

• rusty ol ranger
• Replies: 24
• Forum: Bronco II, Explorer & Sport Trac

 

[Terrys87]

This is the other driver seat I have. It is grungy. The seat I installed yesterday, the seat back is twisted. I was able to pull on it and get it nearly close but can’t to try this one.

You can see the dirt being pulled out. Still going to spend tomorrow cleaning it.

Far better than it was.

 

[Terrys87]

A job I have been putting off for a long time. I have a cab off if a wrecked truck. Giving a try at doing my own headliner.

A new wire brush held at a 45 degree angle and lots if scrubbing.

Hopefully tomorrow I can install seat and start getting headliner on to the base. Still have to take all trim out if truck to do installation.

 

[SenorNoob]

@SenorNoob I had a spare Throttle Body with the factory TPS on it. I installed it and that solved the idling issue. When I installed the new Standard brand TPS, I did not think that there was an adjustment on it. Apparently, there is the slightest adjustment to it that I see on a video so will be looking into that a little bit more. Having a correctly installed/adjusted TPS made a world of difference on the truck. I wonder if the erratic idle you see on here, YouTube and elsewhere that several have problems with, besides the MAP sensor, that this is a common issue?

The couple of times I've messed with them the cheap aftermarket didn't have enough range of motion to work. I ended up with junkyard parts.