My '87 BII is starting to sound like a typwriter

[gaz]

The secret/magic proceedure

VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT ON FORD 2.9 LITER 60 DEGREE V6 ENGINE

Foreword;
-the “Super Clymer” manual does say that this is done at the factory and the hydraulic lifter is self adjusting and that no adjustment is required throughout the life of the engine.
-the “Chilton” tells us how to do it? The following is directly from the Chilton manual.
“NOTE: The following procedure should be performed on a cold engine.
1. On the cylinder to be adjusted, position the cams so that the tappets are in the base circle area.
2. Loosen the adjusting screws until a distinct lash between the roller arm pad and the valve tip can be noticed. NOTE: The plunger of the hydraulic tappet should now be fully extended under the load of the internal spring.
3. Carefully screw in the adjustment screws until the roller arm (this says roller arm in the book but we know our rockers are not of the roller variety; we have hydraulic lifters and direct/mechanical rockers) slightly touch the valve.
4. To achieve the normal working position of the plunger, screw in the adjusting screw 1 ½ turns, equivalent of 2mm.”

There were some things in there that didn’t quite make sense to me. In particular, the part about the plunger in the hydraulic tappet. This made absolutely no sense to me at all. Fortunately, this time reading the procedure, I actually had a hydraulic tappet in my hand. I played with it for a while, then called my much more knowledgeable acquaintance and asked if I could come over and let him explain this component to me. He suggested I not only bring a new one but an old one as well. So I did.
I recommend, at a minimum, purchasing one of these (from memory they are about $3.50). With one of these in your hands it will be much simpler to determine how to correctly accomplish what that NOTE is attempting to accomplish.
So it is within STEP # 3 in conjunction with the NOTE above it that the “magic” CAN happen. This is what I learned. Any number of individuals could do this same exact procedure with varying results. The trick is to know exactly when the “HYDRAULIC TAPPET’s” plunger is retracted and still just making contact with the VALVE. It may not seem explained very well but that is the SECRET.
Again, the best way to learn how to perform this operation is to buy a spare (if you have over 100,000 miles, you will benefit from a new set) and get with someone that knows way to much about engineering and or car stuff and is willing to divulge the “secrets of the universe” to you. It is what I just said.
I am currently going through a 2.9 liter Ford 60 degree V6, so if while I am performing this procedure again, I can bring any more SPECIFIC instruction or better explain the MYSTERY (I am not being condescending here, this is nothing shy of tricky) I will.
I am sorry for taking so long to readdress this issue, I know how long this put me back and frankly, I still can’t believe I got lucky enough to get it right. I was shocked!!! (Humbled)

Kevin

 

[gaz]

Since you read all of that, read this

What I learned to do was to apply pressure with my hand to the pushrod, listening to the lifter retract and feeling for the retract. Once the rocker closed the GAP it was too far. I had to get a feel for this and I did each rocker indiviually. I also repeated this entire proceedure 4 times until I knew I had it spot on, for each of the lifters.

I hope this is clear but I will attempt to better elaborate if anyone would like.

Kevin

 

[gaz]

Correction

Sorry,

I think I explained that wrong!

Tighten the rocker until it..., I AM GOING TO HAVE TO GO TO THE ENGINE AND DO THIS TO BE ABLE TO ACCURATELY EXPLAIN HOW TO DO IT CORRECT.

I can't remember if it was the begining of the tappet stroke or the end with pressure. This is wherin the mystery lays. So feel free to finger this out before I get back on my build which won't be for a couple.

Sorry,
Kevin

 

[90B24wd]

Can I make a long story short. Don't use a Fram oil filter. Check to see if your rocker arm shafts are clean from sludge. Check to see if oil is flowing out of the rocker arms consistenly. Get an old heater hose and use it as a stethoscope. Now start engine and listen for the loudest tapping you hear, turn off engine. Snug that rocker nut abit. Repeat until you have a light faint tick. This Is My Safety Margin. Do this to each of the other 11 rocker arms. Tighten or loosen if needed. Each rocker arm adjustment will be different because of the wear on the lifter and cam lobe.
No need to buy new cam , lifters, or gaskets I'm cheap. (as long if heads did not crack)

 

[Duane867]

A long story short would be the factory design sucks hog balls.
Poor cooling, poor oiling from the factory.

 

[UtilityCow]

What should I expect for flow from the rockers at cold idle? Should it be oozing or squirting forcefully? Each rocker was equal but more of a slow ooze and drip off the tips onto the valve springs.
What am I looking at now? should I try cranking down the adjusters on the compressible lifters?

 

[Duane867]

It should be coming out pretty good with no valve covers on. We aren't talking a fire hose here or anything but much more then an ooze.
Oozing is definitely not what you want. That could mean the filter is either clogged up with all manner of crap or the pump/pick up tube it fubared OR the cam bearings have worn to the point of suffocating the valve train for oil, OR the cam thrust plate has begun to leak and caused a pressure drop starving the valves train. There should be obvious signs of this though with the covers off. Meaning sludge all over the place, scalding.. etc etc etc..
The cam thrust plate can be removed and install in the upside down position to fix that but the cam bearings require a complete tear down of the upper half of the engine.
That is IF any of the above are your problems but I would say if its only oozing one or more may well be.

I just figured I would refine my late night ramblings with something that made more sense and less of what sounded like it came from a feverishly ill old fat man sitting behind a computer ( which is exactly what I was last night when I posted a couple posts up ) LOL !
Edited them all !

 

[Duane867]

These are the steps All Data pro says to take to adjust your valve lash.....

The same as given above pretty much.

 

[90B24wd]

Adjusting by ear gives you more of a fine tuned sound.

 

[UtilityCow]

I adjusted the driver side exactly according to my manual and ALLDATA you posted. I just spent 16 bucks on 20-50 oil and it still rattles like hell. I hooked the oil pressure gauge back up and at cold idle it's over 50 psi. I'm thinking the last lifter/lifters in the bank are starved for oil. There is definitely not a forceful squirting of oil from the rockers. The heads are new. Is there a pic of the oil circuit in this engine? I googled it and didn't come up with anything. The oil flows to cam bearings then to lifters is what I'm gathering from everyone's posts. The cam bearings could be shot because I did drive it a while with a small amount of water in the oil before I realized the head gasket went. I could try the thrust plate trick. Should I replace it or turn it upside down? any pics or write ups on the process?

 

[gaz]

Rocker "lifter" gap

I realize I didn't exactly come through with my "claimed" solution BUT this proceedure is performed on a completely COLD engine that is not running!!.

You won't lose any oil; it may only be a personal preference but I have only ever used 10x40 oil in the Ford 2.9l.

The part that makes it tricky is learning how much compression/retraction of the lifter plunger to use prior to the 1.5 final turns.

 

[UtilityCow]

The part that makes it tricky is learning how much compression/retraction of the lifter plunger to use prior to the 1.5 final turns.

The books and everyone else says to tighten until it comes into contact, then go 1.5 times more. That's exactly what I did. Would be difficult thing to do with engine running. This sucks. Any answers on my previous questions?? How do I fix this oil feed problem without tearing too far into engine?

 

[90B24wd]

I realize I didn't exactly come through with my "claimed" solution BUT this proceedure is performed on a completely COLD engine that is not running!!.

You won't lose any oil; it may only be a personal preference but I have only ever used 10x40 oil in the Ford 2.9l.

The part that makes it tricky is learning how much compression/retraction of the lifter plunger to use prior to the 1.5 final turns.

Can you hear a 2.9 ticking when it's cold and not running?

Adjustments should be done at operating temperatures.
(this means to listen when engine is running and off to adjust) As for oil loss, modify another set of valve covers.

 

[90B24wd]

The books and everyone else says to tighten until it comes into contact, then go 1.5 times more. That's exactly what I did. Would be difficult thing to do with engine running. This sucks. Any answers on my previous questions??

Not me, I would go more than 1.5 turns if I have to.