My 2000 Ranger full width SAS swap

[deeter25]

Here's some pictures of my full width d44 swap. I didn't get to take step by step pictures but here's a few from throughout the process of it. Its not completely done yet. I pulled the rears (d44 and ford 9") from a 79 f150 at the junkyard about $250. They had 4.56 gears installed when I got them, got the 6" lift with it also.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[deeter25]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

great score.


nice to have a bit of luck sourcing parts sometimes.

 

[Divh]

nice looking truck

 

[deeter25]

Thanks, here's a little update- I got 02 f150 2wd leafs which gave me about 2.5"-3" of lift in the back and got my other coils in the front which gave me 2.25" more than the other 6" lift coils I had, not quite sure why.... I got the motor (302), tranny(c6 auto), and the tcase (np205) mounted up. Cross members are made under the motor and tranny. I found drive shafts in my garage that will work. I just ordered 5.13 gears for front and back and also the lokka automatic lockers for front and back. It's slowly getting closer, just little odds and ends now.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[deeter25]

I'll get some more pictures tomorrow of the cross members and leafs.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[Str8sixfan]

Have to be honest, those radius arm brackets and stacked lift blocks in the rear scare the hell out of me.

 

[deeter25]

The radius arm brackets should be fine we made them out of thick steel tubing and welded a plate inside so the can't crush, the tranny cross member bridges between them also which will keep them from folding in/out. The lift blocks are getting replaced, we're making our own lift block out of heavy steel tubing so there's not two big blocks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[deeter25]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[RangerSVT]

I would have pushed the front axle forward and used a shorter coil, and ran extended arms so the frame mount wouldnt be so low. Sticking with efi would have been a plug n play swap for you since you used the explorer motor. You going for mall crawler look, or actually going to use it offroad? Looks tall for offroad, but good score on the parts...

SVT

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Yeah those blocks are sketchy as hell. With a 5.0 I personally would never run over a 4" block. The taller the block the greater the possibility you'll get enough axel wrap to completely dislodge the axel and or max out the splines/slip yoke on the drive shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[deeter25]

Yeah they must be pretty sketchy, I guess that's why they give ya the lift block to put under your factory bump block when ya order a lift kit right?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

They sold you a kit for the purpose to stack blocks? No I bet the block was to replace the factory block.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

They sold you a kit for the purpose to stack blocks? No I bet the block was to replace the factory block.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if you dont know the answer you should stop right there.


and yes that is a rhetorical statement.


blocks do in fact get stacked in many applications, generally when using a 4 inch or larger from the aftermarket a guy uses a traction block in place of the 2-3.5 in factory block. in this case with the longer rear leaf setup off the 02 150 i seriously suggest some sort of traction bar or block.

and of course like svt, i sure as hell would not put a carb on a 4x4 and would have pushed the axle forward and tucked the arms.


but if its mainly for bogging, there is nothing wrong with this setup at all. while far from bulletproof it will more then get the job done....we will break shit no matter what.

and i am fairly confidant he knows all of this and is building this for his needs.

 

[deeter25]

I would have pushed the front axle forward and used a shorter coil, and ran extended arms so the frame mount wouldnt be so low. Sticking with efi would have been a plug n play swap for you since you used the explorer motor. You going for mall crawler look, or actually going to use it offroad? Looks tall for offroad, but good score on the parts...

SVT

if you dont know the answer you should stop right there.


and yes that is a rhetorical statement.


blocks do in fact get stacked in many applications, generally when using a 4 inch or larger from the aftermarket a guy uses a traction block in place of the 2-3.5 in factory block. in this case with the longer rear leaf setup off the 02 150 i seriously suggest some sort of traction bar or block.

and of course like svt, i sure as hell would not put a carb on a 4x4 and would have pushed the axle forward and tucked the arms.


but if its mainly for bogging, there is nothing wrong with this setup at all. while far from bulletproof it will more then get the job done....we will break shit no matter what.

and i am fairly confidant he knows all of this and is building this for his needs.

Thanks, im sick of arguing with people over stacked blocks. My dad used to run two blocks with a worked up 460 and never kicked a block out, and he didn't baby it. Yes, I know there is a chance of kicking them out but I welded them together just for assurance. We would've pushed the axle forward and tucked the arms but that would've put the pinion at a really steep angle, which I couldn't have corrected with a different radius arm c-bushing, there's a 6" lift coil and we dropped the coil buckets 1.5" on the frame. We went with a carb for a few reasons but mainly for the simplicity of it. Its mainly for bogging and it should hold up pretty well, we plated behind the coil buckets, track bar mount, and steering box.... built pretty heavy duty crossmembers, c6 auto trans., 205 tcase, 5.13 gears, lokka lockers, 38" swampers, and eventually track bars for the 9". but in the end, like you said, we will break shit and make improvements where needed.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk