Motor will not start!

[mason87ranger]

I have replaced FPR. I am getting gas out of the rail and it comes out pretty good. I would like to know if I am getting spark, would there be such a thing as me not getting a hot enough spark, that is coming from the coil. There was someone who asked me did I check my spark. I told them yes. They asked me what color was the spark. I told them it was yellow. They told me it wasn't hot enough, that it needed to be a blue spark. Never heard of that. Once again, I do have two new fuel pumps, new regulator, new fuel filter, the fittings on the return lines are smaller than the inlets so it would be difficult for me to get those crossed over. I did check the ohms on my injectors, all of them are around 16. I did use the NOID light, they do pulsate. When I got the FPR, the paper in it said it was set at 40psi. I do know that both of the fuel pumps are working. I put a temporary wire on them to test them to check for leaks and to make sure had plenty of pressure. I also went through the fuel lines from one end to the other, cleaning those out and also the tank when I installed the new fuel pumps and fuel filter. I do not know how to change the fuel pressure if for some reason I'm not getting enough but I do believe I'm getting enough. I do not know where to go from here. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[RonD]

You said the engine did fire when you used ether, while ether does ignite at a lower temp than gasoline it still needs a spark to ignite it in a cold engine.
And after it ignites the cylinder temp gets warmer and then even a weak spark would be able to ignite the gasoline.
That's what starter fluid(ether) is used for, mostly for diesel engines, but the principle is the same, diesel needs to be warmed to ignite, the ether burning warms up the cylinders, so the diesel coming in after "pre-heat" will ignite.
Same for gasoline, less spark is needed after cylinders are preheated by ether burning.

Yes, spark should be blue, yellow means weak spark.

This video shows blue spark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU

'87 should have the TFI system, you can run a temporary wire from Battery + to Coil +, this will give Coil full voltage when cranking.
TFI has separate START and RUN wires, if there is a problem in the TFI module, you often don't get full voltage at coil when cranking engine.

 

[tomw]

If you do replace the TFI, be careful when sliding the pins into the connectors at the bottom of the distributor bowl. The plastic that holds them in place has likely deteriorated since 1987, and will allow the metal connectors to move around unless they are supported and held in place while the TFI is moved 'upward' into the bottom of the distributor.
If you mess up, you'll have to disassemble the distributor to replace the pickup, or get a re-man distributor.
tom

 

[inverse1216]

is your truck manual or automatic? I know that if you have a faulty or disconnected neutral switch your truck will not start. it communicates directly to the computer. also check the wiring to the switch.

 

[mason87ranger]

Still having a problem with 87 Ranger not wanting to run. I have 41 psi on fuel rail. I did check injectors. 1 is 16 ohms, 3 are 13 ohms. All are new. I do know that new does not mean good. When I bought the injectors 3 were white and one was black. i did not think anything about it 'til I was checking the ohms. I did use the NOID light and light does flick on all 4. The truck will run for a few seconds on starting fluid. First, I would like to ask is 13 ohms good enough for the injectors to work? Secondly, I would like to ask if I have 16 ohms does that mean it is working? Thank you again for all of your help.

 

[RonD]

14 ohms is mid-range, 11-17ohms is acceptable range

 

[mason87ranger]

What do you suggest I do next? I am all out of ideas.

 

[RonD]

Not sure?

You manually add fuel to intake the engine starts and runs until that fuel is burned up.
So spark is working............engines fuel system is not continuing to add more fuel.

Pressure is OK at 40psi at the rail
Injectors have correct OHMs
Noid light shows they are getting grounded by the computer
So, based on the above, fuel should be coming out of the fuel rail and into the intake

Obvious thing is..........is the gasoline good?

I would try just cranking the engine then pull out a spark plug, it should be wet with fuel, if not then we have a problem with the testing.

 

[tomw]

Besides fuel pressure, have you checked for volume? An injector system will build pressure, but will drop off quickly if the fuel is let out through the injector, but not replaced.
IOW, either use a gauge with a valve to capture fuel or check the pressure with the engine running. oops, can't do that last, so go with the former. Use a container to catch fuel for a measured amount of time, do some math, and see if you get a cup of fuel in a short time. Sixteen miles per gallon @ 60 miles an hour would require 16 cups of fuel in sixteen minutes. If you can do a cup/minute you should be ahead of the game.
tom [check my math.]

 

[mason87ranger]

I checked my injectors again with the noid light, this time the noid light did not come on. I'm thinking I have a short somewhere in my underhood wires wiring harness. Any idea where I can get these wires. I looked online and saw that there was previously a recall on the wires yet I cannot locate how they fixed the problem.

 

[tomw]

I would think if you have a short in the injector wires, the insulation would be melted. The computer provides a ground to fire the injectors. The harness, switched by the ignition switch, provides power (+) to the injectors. The coil inside the injector just sits there doing nothing until it has a ground, and can conduct electricity. When conducting, it pulls a plunger up to allow gas to fall out the bottom(under pressure). When the ground goes away, the coil relaxes and a spring puts the plunger back in place to stop gasoline flow. More or less.
You should have + voltage at the injectors, on a common colored wire I would think, when the key is "ON". If not, check fuses & relays. And FINALLY check wiring as a last resort as it generally just sits there rocking back and forth with the engine, IOW, not moving very much to cause frayed insulation and the sort leading to shorts.
tom