motor mouts in 1994 3L 4x4

[Redav72]

Hello,

First post. I recently purchased a 1994 Ranger 4x4 with the 3L engine. The project was purchased with the engine in the bed of the truck rather than the engine compartment. The motor mounts looked particularly crusty and had a 1/4" rough cut spacer between the bracket and the mounts. I replaced the mounts with new from O'Reilly's and lowered the engine down to the new fresh mounts. Everything looks good from the top but underneath the oil pan is directly resting on the bracket that the passenger side scissor attaches to. There is no gap between the oil pan and the cross member bracket, and I'm beginning to see why the previous owner may have mounted the engine with the spacers in place. Is this a common issue with the available mounts? Have others experienced this? Are washers a viable solution? I don't particularly want to put the rough cut 1/4 inch back in. I also haven't managed to line up the engine and transmission.

 

[Redav72]

I got the engine lowered into place and the transmission snugged up. I'm still seeing the arm bracket in direct contact with the oil pan. Is this ok? Attaching photo this time.

 

[Curious Hound]

That's not OK. I'm not sure why it's happening. But the oil pan should not contact the crossmember. I haven't really played with the engine mounts on mine. But is there a chance that they are swapped side-to-side?

 

[Redav72]

They seem to be the same mount on both sides. The pin and bolt are offset differently on each side and it matches perfectly the engine. What's really weird is that the previous owner had installed some 1/4 steel shims between the mounts and the engine, presumably to fix this issue. I didn't re-install them as it was obvious that they weren't OEM. I did order some 1/4 aluminum so that I could make my own if that was needed, but I'm a little flumoxed as to why this issue is happening.

Rock auto has different part numbers listed for the front left 4 wheel drive. I thought I had ordered it but it didn't fit. Is it possible that the front left only is a little taller than the front right and needs a specific part?

 

[Redav72]

Ok, I've confirmed that the part that I installed is listed as for the 4x4. Anyone have any ideas? Other 92-94 4x4 owners do you have a picture of the oil pan relative to the bracket?

 

[Redav72]

I'm also noticing that the engine appears to be nose up a bit relative to the AC radiator. Is the engine supposed to be level in the engine bay or does it naturally have a tilt? I'm wondering if the transmission mount is where I might need to put a spacer.

 

[Curious Hound]

I'm also noticing that the engine appears to be nose up a bit relative to the AC radiator. Is the engine supposed to be level in the engine bay or does it naturally have a tilt? I'm wondering if the transmission mount is where I might need to put a spacer.

I could look at mine Friday. Post pictures of your transmission mount and transmission crossmember

 

[Redav72]

I was able to put in some wrench time on Saturday. Got a picture of the transmission mount, which I've attached. I did put a jack under and it lifted it a quarter inch or so and unfortunately that oil pan is still in direct contact with the cross member. I think I'm going to need to simply put those spacers in.

 

[Redav72]

Ok, problem located. At some point in this truck's history an owner put the wrong oil pan back on. The pan has the oil drain on the side, the correct pan has it on the back. I found another thread stating that the older 3.0 oil pans are incompatible with the 4x4, which now makes perfect sense. I really don't want to pull this engine again and I've got a couple options.

Shim it so that it clears and tuck a little piece of rubber between the gap so that I don't have metal on metal and then when the transmission eventually fails pull the engine and replace the oil pan as a part of that project.

OR

Do it now do it right.

 

[Brain75]

Life lesson I learned long ago: Always do it right the first time, it will cost you more in both time and out of pocket if you don't....

 

[Bgunner]

Yes it is normal for the nose of the engine to be up a few degree's compared to the rear of the engine.

Just looking through the pics you posted the oil pan definitely looks different on the 93-94 models.

Pull the trans bolts and engine mounts and raise the engine and swap out the pan now. The angles of the engine and trans matter so keeping it as stock as possible will limit ware on other parts. If you are going to do it, do it correctly the first time.

Be sure to add a little RTV to the seams of the block and timing cover to prevent the oil pan gasket from leaking there. This will save a headache in the future. It is a lot easier to get the rear of the pan gasket strait if the trans is separated but not impossible as I have done it but it was a fiddley job to get it correct with the trans mounted.

 

[Redav72]

I’d be interested in seeing how much clearance there was on the 92 4x4. I bet it’s super tight if they were still using the pan I’ve got.

 

[Bgunner]

I recently replaced my oil pan here is what I used:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/spectra-premium/spectra-premium-3-5-quart-oil-pan/gt00/fp09a

and

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fel-pro/fel-pro-oil-pan-gasket/fel0/os30620r

I believe the oil pan gasket comes with a small tube of RTV for the timing cover and block seam. (It could have come in the timing chain gasket set so be sure to check before disassembly) The pan came with its own gasket but I trusted Fel-pro more than an unknown make of gasket. The pan arrived in excellent condition but the gasket was kind of folded in the package but being rubber with metal rings for the bolts it was easily reshaped and installed fine.

Be sure when removing the pan gasket you account for all the metal rings in the gasket. Mine had 3 rings come out of the gasket and made me search for where they came from. Since they are small washers just imbedded into the gasket they can come out when the gasket is old or damaged.

Total cost was $103.04 for both parts.

EDIT: Just to be clear, The pan I used had the hole for the oil level sensor in it. The gasket for the oil level sensor is unobtanium without buying the sensor, so is the connector on the harness side for the sensor so do not break it.

 

[Redav72]

Just following up with this thread for future searches. My best guess is that the engine came from a non-4x4 or even a non-Ranger platform. I replaced the incompatible oil pan with the correct one. I now have plenty of clearance between the pan and the cross member. I spent a lot of time problem solving because I assumed that the engine as it was was correct. I should have been more aware of the fact that a 30 year old truck may have been modified in multiple ways, if I had I could have identified this issue and corrected it earlier.

 

[rumblecloud]

Thanks for updating the thread.

That thought occurred to me when reading the thread - that it was a different engine altogether.
Glad you got it sorted - congrats.