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milky white oil in valve cover


rangerbronco288

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
73
Age
36
City
Westland Michigan
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
ok so i got the used engine in the truck it went into a 88 ranger the motor is a 2.9 out of a 90 ranger. Fire it up and it runs ok for a few minutes but has a very high idle so i shut it off and check the dipstick low on oil. Pull the oil cap off the valve cover milky white inside the valve cover. Pull out the compression tester got around 155 in all cylinders except #1 got 65. What do you guys think?? i could see it being a head gasket but if it was a head gasket why would my oil be low because the coolant would be leaking past the rings into the oil?? Hope i am on the right track im thinking head gasket/cracked head possibly. I plan on tearing into it tommorow so any help in advance is appreciated.


Thanks
Jeff
 
when the engine is runing, compression pressure would go into the cooling system, but when you shut the truck off, the cooling system still has pressure in it, but the combustion chamber has none. Or the oil could be leaking into the coolent?
 
ok so update time. I pulled everything apart intake manifold gasket was fine. So i pull the passenger side head off gaskets fine. Ok so its late and im just in one of those moods lets drain the oil and see what we get. I got about 8 quarts of antifreeze and oil mixture. ok what the hell. inspect the drivers side head a lil more closely 3 badly bent pushrods?? how did that happen the passenger side was the one with low compression. If there was coolant leaking inside of the cylinders causing it to bend the weakest part of the valvetrain being the pushrod. It should have shown up with low compression correct? well if anyone has any ideas where the coolant is getting inside my block from please share your ideas. Im going to bed ill pull the other head off in the morning and let you guys know.
 
2.9's are known for cracked heads.
 
ok so update time. I pulled everything apart intake manifold gasket was fine. So i pull the passenger side head off gaskets fine. Ok so its late and im just in one of those moods lets drain the oil and see what we get. I got about 8 quarts of antifreeze and oil mixture. ok what the hell. inspect the drivers side head a lil more closely 3 badly bent pushrods?? how did that happen the passenger side was the one with low compression. If there was coolant leaking inside of the cylinders causing it to bend the weakest part of the valvetrain being the pushrod. It should have shown up with low compression correct? well if anyone has any ideas where the coolant is getting inside my block from please share your ideas. Im going to bed ill pull the other head off in the morning and let you guys know.

If you have bent items...I'd be willing to bet that this thing has gotten a slug of water in it (from the prior owner??)...if that came from the head gasket/head...then it would have been pretty signicant leak, best be looking at the cylinder wall to in that area. if it froze in there it could done some real damage.
 
The block had to have a crack inside of the crankcase somewhere. Probably water got into it and it sat for the winter and froze. I really dont care because the junkyard i got it from just told me to bring it back and theyll get me another. The whole spending a day to put in in sucks but thanks for all your help.
 
Yeah as previously stated, due to the aluminum heads, 2.9s (and 4.0s) are known for cracking heads. They don't really blow gaskets, the heads just crack. Many junkyards won't warranty 2.9s because of that.
 
I've got milkshake blues in my '87 as well and I think know what causes it. As with any aluminum block engine and/or aluminum head, overheating is absolutely, unforgivingly intolerable!There is no 2nd chance. To head off this problem you must fix your cooling system immediately if you see a problem with it. I've had only cast iron engines in the past and had 2nd chances. I learned the hard way on this one. I'm using a bandaid fix; I use a block sealer that is that is poured into the cooling system. I give it a 99% effective rating.
 
due to the aluminum heads

:huh:

As with any aluminum block engine and/or aluminum head, overheating is absolutely, unforgivingly intolerable!

As someone who is 130lbs/6' and has carried a 2.9L block (with a cam) from a trunk into a machine shop, I would say that it's definitely not aluminum. :) IMO, I probably will get help next time.

The stock heads are lighter compared to aftermarket, but still pretty heavy. Those are iron, as they rust, just like the block will.

The heads crack because of a defect in their casting, it's too thin in some parts, particularly on the #1 & #6 cylinders, which are the same cylinders, since the heads are identical on both the left and right sides.

Pete
 

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