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making explorer axle swap easier?


the_blue_phantom

Active Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
25
City
Columbia, SC
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Automatic
so im thinking about swapping out my 7.5" axle for one from an explorer so i can have disc brakes and the 8.8" axle. i know that if i do this i have to cut the spring mounts off of the explorer axle and weld them on the other side, since the springs go over the axle in the ranger. this may be a stupid question, but couldnt i get a rear axle flip kit for a ranger and put it on the explorer axle? that way i could simply just "swap out" the axles, without having to do any precision welding for the spring mounts, right? (im a pretty crappy welder, and from what i hear the welding has to be done by someone fairly competent!) i think this might work, but im not too familiar with rear axle flip kits. could this possibly work?
 
Yup it could work just fine.

ruff stuff specialties (whom is a vender on TRS) sells an 8.8 simple swap kit.
 
It isn't worth the effort to TRY cutting the exsisting spring perches off the axle

All you'll do is create a chopped up mess.

Simply ignore them and weld NEW ones on the other side.

new spring perches only cost ~$20.

Yes, a flip kit could theoretically work, but it doesn't adress the
issue with the explorer axle having no shock mounts on the axle tubes...

AD
 
i cut mine off and reused them a 4 1/2 inch cut off wheel works great then a grinder to clean them up
 
So let me ask this question not to jack the thread but i posted a similar threat yesterday and got everything figured out except how to figure out where around the axle tube the perches need to be placed. I know they need to be on top, same width as the explorer ones, but what about the "Pinion angle" thing.. Most posts are 6Degrees... so does that mean i just angle them 6degreees down in front so that when theyre level the pinion sticks up 6 degrees to meet up with the drive shaft?
 
So let me ask this question not to jack the thread but i posted a similar threat yesterday and got everything figured out except how to figure out where around the axle tube the perches need to be placed. I know they need to be on top, same width as the explorer ones, but what about the "Pinion angle" thing.. Most posts are 6Degrees... so does that mean i just angle them 6degreees down in front so that when theyre level the pinion sticks up 6 degrees to meet up with the drive shaft?

Good Question. I am about to do the same swap.
 
Assemble the axle under the truck without the perches welded and set it down so that there's weight on the suspension. Then check & adjust your pinion angle until it's where you want it, tack weld the perches in place, pull the axle back out and then weld them up the rest of the way.
 
That is what I planned on doing. Problem is I am going to do a small lift at the same time and have to install all that stuff first before doing the rear end swap :(

A few more ???s though

1) What are the stock Ranger spring perch sizes? I read conflicting info on the boards.

Width =
Length =
Hole =
Axle Dia = 3.25" (Since Explorer)

I don't want to get ones that are too wide and then have fitment issues with the leaf springs/ the leaf spring plate / or the u-bolts.


2) What is a good drive shaft angle? Is it the 6 degrees stated above? Bear in mind I am doing a +2" leveling kit lift (+2" coils in front, still undecided on rear) and I may go 4" suspension lift in the future. I also plan on changing to the one piece drive shaft at some point in time. I don't want to paint myself into a corner with the drive shaft angle if I go bigger in the future wich is most likely.


I got my 8.8 xploder rear end w all brakes last night for 265 at the JY. They wanted 350 but i got them to match another JY price for 300 and then I knew the sales guy so he hooked me up some more. Not cheap and I probably could have gotten it at a You Pull It Yard but I have it and it looks ot be pretty good/unmolested. We will know more once I pull the cover off of it.

Thanks for all the help guys. I don't have my rear end out of the truck yet and I need to order the perches. It is a catch 22 because it is my only pesonla vehicle (I have a company work car). I can't take the rear end out to measure the perches becauser then I won't have a vehicle to drive on the nights/weekends.
 
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The perches are 2.5 inch wide. I think the hole in the middle is around 5/8 in, I know its bigger then 1/2 in because thats what i drilled mine to and it was to small. You probably want the length to be around 6 or 7 in. Stock length is only around 4 or 5 but having longer ones will help with axle wrap a little bit.
 
Sounds good man. I ordered some already :) I am just goign to have my uncle weld on the perches while I have the new rear end on jack stands with a pinion angle of 6 degrees. That way when I pull out the old diff, I can just bolt in the new diff.

I am also going to leave the old spring perches on the axle. I figure down the road if I ever change anything, part the truck out, ect... I can sell this rear end as an Explorer or Ranger rear end. But the sway bar explorer mounts are gonna have to go.
 
So let me ask this question not to jack the thread but i posted a similar threat yesterday and got everything figured out except how to figure out where around the axle tube the perches need to be placed. I know they need to be on top, same width as the explorer ones, but what about the "Pinion angle" thing.. Most posts are 6Degrees... so does that mean i just angle them 6degreees down in front so that when theyre level the pinion sticks up 6 degrees to meet up with the drive shaft?

Yep, seems like most sources declare "pinion up" by 6 degrees. I bought a magnetic base inclinometer for $6 to do mine. Jack-stands under the tubes and a jack under the pinion to achieve the 6*, then weld on the perches at 0*. I don't know how important angle is with stock suspension - it may not matter much.

By the way, a lot of after-market weld on perches have the wrong size locator hole.
 
I didn't notice anyone suggesting that the axle housing be welded in a jig. Are you guys finish welding everything on the bench in a jig or just leaving it in the truck? I have a 97 Ranger that I want to perform an axle flip on by using new inexpensive perces welded on the bottom of the axle tube. I'm lowering it. I'm worried about the axle tubes moving around when it's welded. Anybody???? Thanks, Mitch.
 
I did all my finish welding out of the truck sitting on jack stands. Welding on spring perches ain't gonna warp anything.
 

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