Main Engine Seal(s)

[LearjetMinako]

For those that have done them. How hard is it to change the front main seal on a 1996 2.3L engine. And since I'll be doing a clutch re-build soon, also the rear main seal too. And also while at it, replace the timing belt.

The Ranger has just started to leak from the front main seal. Its not dripping yet, but it will be shortly. I was wondering how hard of a job it will be since the 1996 has the Twin I-Beam suspension. Is possible to sqeeze enough room without lifting the engine?

 

[RobbieD]

I've done the rear on a '94 2.3, since I was in there anyway doing a clutch job. Very easy. Used drywall screws to pull the old one out, and the "special tool" needed to drive the new one in was a Planters peanut can, tapped with a hammer.

Sorry; never done a front main seal (yet!).

Did do the timing belt, though; didn't run into anything unusual on that. I used a breaker bar-on-the-frame and bumped the starter to loosen the crank bolt. Other than that, the only advice is to unbolt the AC compressor and tie it back (not opening the system) for more room. I think on yours ('95 up) you have to align all three sprockets; mine was only crank and cam.

Happy wrenching, and good luck!

 

[LearjetMinako]

Re-doing the timing belt will probably be the easiest part of the three jobs. I've done it once before, and its almost as easy as replacing the fan belt. Just gotta remove more crap to get to it. Speaking of which, I should also consider replacing the tensenior & idler pulley as well.

Already I see this adding a larger bill. But once its done, its done and should be good for another 100k miles.

If the rear main seal is as easy as that. I pray the front is too. No removal of the drain pan. That would be awasome.

 

[Dave R]

To do the front seal, after you have removed all of the stuff for the timing belt, carefully pry the crank sprocket off. Then remove the front two oil pan bolts and then remove the crankseal "holder" (I really need to look up the official name for it), clean it, drive out the old seal and carefully drive in the new seal. Bolt it back on and reassemble everything.

 

[LearjetMinako]

Two bolts from the oil pan. I can do that. When you are talking about the crank sprocket, do you mean the crankshaft pulley? Or is there more behind the crank pulley?

So for the questions. Haynes repair manual is very sparse on the details.

 

[Dave R]

When you are talking about the crank sprocket, do you mean the crankshaft pulley? Or is there more behind the crank pulley?

By sprocket, I'm refering to the toothed gear that drives the timing belt. The seal is behind it. They are supposed to be a sliding fit but, sometimes they come off easily, sometimes they are a bastard. In one extreme case I ended up having to cut the sprocket off with a torch (I only wanted the crank out of the engine)

So for the questions. Haynes repair manual is very sparse on the details.

No worries, any time.

 

[LearjetMinako]

By sprocket, I'm refering to the toothed gear that drives the timing belt. The seal is behind it. They are supposed to be a sliding fit but, sometimes they come off easily, sometimes they are a bastard. In one extreme case I ended up having to cut the sprocket off with a torch (I only wanted the crank out of the engine)


No worries, any time.

Sliding fit, that should make life easier. Thanks, once I save enough money, again. I'll get the parts and do it on a weekend. Probably looking around March or end of Feburary to do this job.

 

[Hardwareman]

I'll be doing mine today so I'll post up some pics. I hope all goes well with it as I don't have the "special pullers". I'm glad I found this thread. Thanks Learjet and DaveR! Wish me luck!




Allen

 

[Dave R]

No special pullers are needed. The rear can be removed by driving a pair of drywall screws into the old seal and using them to yank it out. The front is easiest if you pull the 'holder' off of the engine but can be done with it insitu using a screwdriver as a chisel.

 

[Hardwareman]

Thanks DaveR

I changed the front one for now, along with the oil pan gasket and that cover gasket that holds the front seal. I also did the oil pump gasket, but not the o-rings because they only shipped me one and it was the wrong size. I'm thinking of changing out the rear main seal right before dropping the engine in because I need to take the engine off the stand anyways to gain access to it. It should only take a couple minutes. What do you think?

[/IMG]

The new seal's already in in this picture but it was a piece of cake. I drove it in and out with my MagLight....lol. It was the perfect diameter.




Allen

 

[Dave R]

I'm thinking of changing out the rear main seal right before dropping the engine in because I need to take the engine off the stand anyways to gain access to it. It should only take a couple minutes. What do you think?

Sounds fine.

 

[LearjetMinako]

Just did mine today. Doing the seal was almost the easiest the part. Getting to it, a royal pain. I removed the front seal by using the sheet metal screw technique. Putting the new one one proved to be a bit more harsh since the flap on the seal kept folding in on it self. But evently, I got it in. I also nailed the timing for the timing belt on the first try. A good 6hrs later, I just want to rest.

The easiest part to remove, THE TIMING GEAR SPROKET. . The crank pulley put on more of a fight.

 

[NathanEdwardDavid]

1996 Ranger 2.3L Timing Belt Replacement

Hello,

My neighbor is trying to replace his timing belt on a 1996 Ranger 2.3L. We couldn't get the crankshaft pulley off, and there is nowhere to mount a puller to it. Is it just stuck? I was advised not to attempt prying it off because there might be some timing sensor pins on the back of it that could take damage. Any suggestions besides the obvious WD40?

Thanks

 

[Hardwareman]

Yeah, you need a puller to get it off. At least I do everytime I have to pull one off. I just use an old universal Craftsman puller I"ve had forever. I think you can rent one for free at your local AutoZone. You have to pay for the tool up front and then when you are finished just return it and you get all your money back.

To put the pulley back on, I just throw it in the oven at 400 for about 10 minutes and then slide it on. Whatever you do, DON"T beat on it. Later.




Allen

 

[LearjetMinako]

To put the pulley back on, I just throw it in the oven at 400 for about 10 minutes and then slide it on. Whatever you do, DON"T beat on it. Later.




Allen

Oops. Don't know about the oven part. But I light tapped it with a hammer on the back end to loosen it. Once it was loose, it went back on easy.