• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

made me a wood burner for the garage...


Hey, 86 Slo-vo. Did you get the parts over at Southern States or Tractor Supply? I have a wood burner in the house, and according to KFB Ins., as long as the stack is at least 18" from anything flammable, triple wall is used for penetrating the overhead, and you have a spark pan under the stove, extending at least 12" out past the door, you are good. I am simply using a piece of singlewall up to the ceiling, and then it goes to the triwall. Works decewntly, esp. with a small blower going into the firebox, and an other fan behind the stack.
 
got the door and stuff at rural kind...probably the same kind of place pretty much a farm store...thats good to know because thats pretty well what ive got...going to be double layer 5/8 drywall behind it...and its concrete under it so i should be fine
 
When I was heating my shop (when I was in NJ) with a wood stove my building was a garage that had been built not with concrete block, but from dimensioned sandstone block that had been used in substitution of concrete block...

The building inspectpor gave me shit over my placing my stove all of 9" from
the wall...

Until I stood there holding my Oxy-Acetylene torch flame against the wall...

THEN I did the same thing to the beam the double wall shimney pipe ran past

He looked baffled when the torch made a glassy burned spot on the wood
but nothing more.... Borate treated lumber:)

AD
 
When I was heating my shop (when I was in NJ) with a wood stove my building was a garage that had been built not with concrete block, but from dimensioned sandstone block that had been used in substitution of concrete block...

The building inspectpor gave me shit over my placing my stove all of 9" from
the wall...

Until I stood there holding my Oxy-Acetylene torch flame against the wall...

THEN I did the same thing to the beam the double wall shimney pipe ran past

He looked baffled when the torch made a glassy burned spot on the wood
but nothing more.... Borate treated lumber:)

AD

trust me im in the construction business, inspectors are crazy sometimes the way they think things...

if inspectors actually were gear heads or ever worked construction or had any real world expierance things would be so much easier...from what i can tell most are just pencil pushers that like to make everything complicated
 
I wish I could take credit for using sandstone, but the walls of the garage
were the only original parts of a structure built in 1919.

I stripped out the "dirtcrete" floor (and dug it down 30") and had
a 22" double grid net (3" above the bottom and 2" below the top)
and 1/2" rebar floor poured.

No, I didn't need it that thick to put up the two post lift I never put in
but this was early in the Regan years and we wanted to dig a shelter
UNDER the garage, never did that either.

AD
 
I would take the gift of a cast iron stove as a mortal insult.
The joints often leak and if inadvertantly overfired they crack.

"Proper" stoves may have a cast door, but are fabricated from
1/4" thick mild steel and lined with firebrick.

AD

I didn't examine it that closely. My brother-in-law bought a big potbellied stove that has to be 3/4" thick. And it's cracked, as you say. I'd think it would be much easier to over-fire that big leaky pig than a little boxwood.

What I used in my house for the last 12 years was a Kent fireplace insert. It's fabricated, has a manifold in the top to slow the heat down. It's a massive fireplace of what they call Brown County Stone around here. It's shale or mudstone I guess. I get that whole big chunk of stone warmed up and winter is a pleasure to come in from. We've been in the new place for a few weeks and it feels like this house has no heart. It's got gas heat and everyone can be anywhere. In the old place, everyone was in the family room all winter.
 
Will, what's worse is once the stove develops a small un-noticed crack
or a flawed seam, the stove then becomes difficult to regulate.

Remember than on "solid fuel heating devices" you throw all the fuel
at they that they will hold then regulate the output by the air you
let into the stove.

So the big "problem" is not an exhaust leak of CO getting out of the
stove that's the big worry, but an unregulated combustion air leak
INTO the stove that you worry about.

wood stoves generally run enough stack temperature that they have
a gross surplus of "draft" so CO leaking out of them generally isn't an issue...

Care, feeding and operation of coal stoves are another matter alltogether.
I have a coal stove now.
properly tended I can ignore it for 36hours at a time, still I've never approached my personal best run with the wood stove I had in my shop in NJ...

112days without lighting a second match.

AD
 
finially got it going tonight...she deffinantly puts out the heat, its gunna be nice

ill get some good pics tommarow
 
woohoo....sure beats freezin' ya ball$ off, huh :D :D

l8r, John
 
itll work fine. i had mine about 5 years and still in great shape and i sold it. all the welding wasnt really necessary though
 
woohoo....sure beats freezin' ya ball$ off, huh :D :D

l8r, John

yea i have some old mustangs seats a couple feat away...set my feet a couple inches away and let them dry out it was nicee coulda took a nap lol

as for the welding...at first i had it bolted and i had it going outside with a 5 foot piece on the top and i didnt know if i just couldnt get a draft going or not but when closing the flapper anything over halfway i could see a little bit of smoke and a spark or 2 shooting out so i just went ahead and did it to be sure
 
I don't know how the homeowners insurance works in KY, but up here in MN, they absolutely will not cover barrel stoves. It's too thin and inconsistently made, increasing the risk for a fire hazard(or so the insurance told my dad).

Where I'm from we have a special name for barrel stoves, more specifically the little 15 gallon ones in a lot of old cabins...

Hippy Killers.

Really easy to get those little barrel glowing red and cooking to the point where they can light your cabin wall on fire while you sleep.
 
its deffinantly not hard to get it glowing, i didnt get my drywall yesterday on the wall and sure enough i got to looking around and the styrofoam behind the metal had started to melt a little so i soaked it in water and choked the fire way down....gunna have to get that dryall on tonight for sure
 
Very nice job! I wish my landlord would let me put a stove in the garage of our college house. You guys are just pussys lol. I have been working in a dirtfloored polebarn my hole life with no heat at all. I would love a low of 20 degrees because in the winter here (mn) thats usually a nice day. One time I was doing a thermostat and coolant flush on my old suburban in high school in january and the water was making an icicle from my lower radiator hose as it drained. That why us minnesotans say "I dont get cold...I get stiff"
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top