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M5OD Smell Trans Fluid In Cab


Did you look at the underside of the dash and plenum at the base of the windshield? There are two panels of sheet metal one at either end of the plenum, that come together with a center panel to form part of the plenum. Where the joint meets, you can have leakage that will come down the firewall or other, and soak the carpet padding. That will lead to rust. You would see some evidence of leakage, as in rust, at the underside of the plenum/windshield.
tom
 
I tried my best to look up underneath there. I didn't see any evidence of a water/rust trail. It's difficult to see up in there due to the firewall mat intertwined in all the pedal shafts etc.. But no water ever ran in that way when I tested and looked for leaks
 
I opened the fill hole in the transmission. It just barely trickled out. I guess I'll check it again after while. If it's leaking, seems to be a small one. I looked at the radiator fluid, just by removing the cap and fluid is still only green. There doesn't appear to be any PS fluid leaking anywhere. The trans is wet on both sides and like I said a small dribble on the bottom of the case. I put the flooring and seat back in the truck to take it to the hunting cabin this weekend. My buddy who does glass repair ordered me a rear window seal and we are going to put it in next week. Shortly after that I'm going to order the floor pan. While I have everything out again I will attempt to get to those rubber seals on the trans that everyone says leak. I'm assuming by that picture that was posted those are for the shifter rails.
 
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I know it's been a while.. I've welded in a new floor pan and had a glass buddy of mine replace the rear window seal. Unfortunately water is still coming in from the rear of the truck and has got to be around somewhere of the rear window seal. There are still water streaks on the inside back of the cab and puddling water in the corners.. running down the outside edge of the floorboard. Any ideas other than replacing the window seal??
 
Mine leaks all over as well but not enough to bug me since I don't drive it daily anymore...

There are a bunch of spot welds on the window mount seam, they can rust out, as well as the 4 sheet metal seams in the corners. Other than that depending if you have a solid or sliding window the seal changes some. It's been a long time since I've had a solid window but I don't think it has any drains or anything, just a seal around the whole thing. The sliding windows have drains in the bottom corners or near the bottom corners of the opening, if these are plugged water can get through the seal between the sliders.

The window is really not all that hard to get out and in with one person and maybe a helper... assuming regular cab. To get the window out open a door and push out on a top corner of the window until the seal folds over the sheet metal seam in the corner, now keep pushing along the long side until the top is loose. After that pull the top out until the window is free... Reinstall can be done several ways, I usually do it with a butter knife or spoon or something simple, start in one bottom corner and get the bottom done first then work up one side at a time, just don't go fast and cut the seal. I remember it being much easier to do the Ranger window than it was to do the one on my F350, that thing is huge and the interior trim gets in the way where my Ranger has none... If you take the window and seal out, check for rust and rough spots, seal them up with silicone or at least some good protective paint after proper cleaning.
 
Mine leaks all over as well but not enough to bug me since I don't drive it daily anymore...

There are a bunch of spot welds on the window mount seam, they can rust out, as well as the 4 sheet metal seams in the corners. Other than that depending if you have a solid or sliding window the seal changes some. It's been a long time since I've had a solid window but I don't think it has any drains or anything, just a seal around the whole thing. The sliding windows have drains in the bottom corners or near the bottom corners of the opening, if these are plugged water can get through the seal between the sliders.

The window is really not all that hard to get out and in with one person and maybe a helper... assuming regular cab. To get the window out open a door and push out on a top corner of the window until the seal folds over the sheet metal seam in the corner, now keep pushing along the long side until the top is loose. After that pull the top out until the window is free... Reinstall can be done several ways, I usually do it with a butter knife or spoon or something simple, start in one bottom corner and get the bottom done first then work up one side at a time, just don't go fast and cut the seal. I remember it being much easier to do the Ranger window than it was to do the one on my F350, that thing is huge and the interior trim gets in the way where my Ranger has none... If you take the window and seal out, check for rust and rough spots, seal them up with silicone or at least some good protective paint after proper cleaning.


My window is the 4 piece slider. The drain holes are open also. Their were a few rusty spots in the top corners I saw before installing the new seal. We roughed them up a bit and painted over them.
 
Do you have a cargo light on the rear of the cab? Check the sealant in the rain gutters along the top of the doors.
 

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