Lower ball joint removal 2000 4x4

[Toms01PSD]

you are wrong, ford wants to service the entire arm, not just the ball joint.

You do not necessarily have to replace the lower control arm, but you do have to replace the upper control arms. This is copied and pasted from Alldata. The only thing I won't copy is pictures of the lower ball joint replacement. Take note to where it says remove torsion bars please.
By the way, the special tool is a Pitman Arm Puller
Procedure:
Removal

Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the stabilizer bar link nut, washer and bushing from the front suspension lower arm
Remove the front shock lower mounting nuts.
Remove the torsion bar.
Remove the lower ball joint castellated nut.
Remove the cotter pin.
Remove the castellated nut.
CAUTION: Support the front suspension arm bushing joint axle shaft and front wheel knuckle before separating the front wheel knuckle from the front suspension lower arm. Failure to do so can cause damage to the front axle shaft assembly. Using the special tool, separate the front wheel knuckle from the front suspension lower arm.
Remove the front suspension lower arm.
Remove the two nuts and bolts.
Remove the front suspension lower arm.

Installation
NOTE: Tighten the front suspension lower arm pivot bolts and nuts until snug. Do not tighten to specification until the installation procedure is complete. NOTE: Inspect the front suspension lower arm ball joints and boot seals for damage. Install a new front suspension lower arm if the ball joint is damaged. Install the front suspension lower arm.
Position the front suspension lower arm to the front suspension crossmember.
Install the bolts and nuts, and tighten until snug.
CAUTION: Install the cotter pin into the lower ball joint from outboard to inboard. Failure to do so will cause damage to the wheel and tire assembly. Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle.
Position the lower ball joint into the front wheel knuckle.
Install the castellated nut.
Install a new cotter pin.
Install the front shock mounting nuts
Position the stabilizer bar link onto the front suspension lower arm, and install the bushing, washer and nut.
Install the torsion bar.
Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
Lower the vehicle
Tighten the front suspension lower arm mounting bolts and nuts.
Perform the wheel-end vacuum leak test.
Check the ride height. Adjust as necessary.
Check the alignment.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Here is the procedure directly from the Ford Shop manual for a 2006 4x4

1) Support vehicle on hoist
2) Remove the wheel knuckle. For additional information refer to wheel knuckle in this section.

Wheel knuckle, removal:

1) Remove outer tie rod end nut and seperate tie rod from knuckle
2) Support lower control arm with jack
3) Remove and disscard lower balljoint cotter pin and nut
4) remove upper balljoint pinch bolt and nut, remove wheel knuckle

Balljoint:

1) Remove and disscard the lower balljoint snap ring
2) Using the special tools (balljoint press) remove the lower balljoint
3) to install reverse the procedure.


Nothing in the Ford manual about the torsion bar being removed.

 

[Toms01PSD]

Here is the procedure directly from the Ford Shop manual for a 2006 4x4

The truck in question was a 2000 4x4. See if it is any different on the 2000. And don't you guys use Alldata at the dealership?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

No, we have our own manuals and online workshop manuals called InFord

 

[Toms01PSD]

No, we have our own manuals and online workshop manuals called InFord

Ok, you know what Alldata is though right? Have you ever used it? I think it's great, hell of a lot better than shop key.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I know what it is but have never used it as the Ford system is what we have and all I have ever known.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Alright, the 2000 4x4 shop manual states that the balljoint is not serviceable and the lower control arm needs to be replaced as an assembly, which would require removeal of the torsion bars.

Ford then came out with an update for removeing the balljoint and replacing, so the method I stated from the 06 manual is the correct method for replacement of the lower balljoint.

 

[Toms01PSD]

Alright, the 2000 4x4 shop manual states that the balljoint is not serviceable and the lower control arm needs to be replaced as an assembly, which would require removeal of the torsion bars.

Ford then came out with an update for removeing the balljoint and replacing, so the method I stated from the 06 manual is the correct method for replacement of the lower balljoint.

Interesting. Alldata and my local dealership both said remove torsion bars. You're saying the update said to do it the way you stated. I suppose you can do it either way and be correct.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Be correct yes, make sense no.

 

[Toms01PSD]

Be correct yet, make sense no.

Next time I have to do them, i'll try it your way. Removing the t-bars was a pain in the ass.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

On a hoist you can have both sides done in around 45 minutes

 

[Toms01PSD]

On a hoist you can have both sides done in around 45 minutes

Removing the t-bars and such? or the way u did it? I had to do mine on the floor in my garage, was a PITA!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

My way.

 

[Glenn Goodrich]

Which Way is Best

I have a 2000 B4000 4WD and I need to replace the lower ball joints. I would love do be able to do it w/o pulling the LCA out our the torsion bar, but is it possible to mess something up doing it this way? Also is it dangerous leaving the torsion bar in and pounding on the ball joint to get it out?

 

[RM_HM]

I just did mine today in my tiny garage. Left the torsion bars on. I had never done lower ball joints before. Took me about 45 minutes a side. Thank goodness the horrible squeal when turning is gone. Stock joints only lasted 50,000
I used a harbor freight 39.99 ball joint kit. And a hammer

Now where to find those rotor keepers I trashed before I took the rotor off.

Had some pictorial help from LINK