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Low profile, locked hub possibility?


kodogtwh

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
ASE Certified Tech
Joined
Mar 1, 2021
Messages
93
City
North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1987
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
Is there such a thing as a permanently locked hub? To just remove the mechanism completely, to save space? I'm converting my 4x4 truck into an AWD truck (once I get access to an aerostar AWD case) and in the process I'm going to leave the hubs locked, 24/7. Having the manual hubs stick so far out from the face of the rotor is severely limiting in choice of wheels, though, so I was wondering if anyone here knows of such a thing as a low profile, one piece hub lockout/delete/whateveryoucallit.
 
I’m not sure how you would do that without using most of the parts from your current hubs. Is yours Dana 35? Or Dana 28? On newer vehicles with the PVH setup, it’s common to make it live axle because the PVH hubs were so unreliable.
 
 
The factory hubs on are automatic, and lock when the axle spins. The engagement of 4wd causing the front axle to spin is what locks the hubs, otherwise they just spin free. They aren't the strongest, and do break, then get swapped for manual lock hubs....but might work for your unique situation.
 
Why would you swap to a Junk AWD transfer case?
He’s probably looking for traction on the street with a boosted engine.

That’s my guess anyhow.
 
I am not aware of anything like that ever being produced. You can get drive flanges for older rigs with various other axles but even those don't really subtract much length from the hub itself... inch or so maybe.

You could maybe take the inside splined piece of a locking hub, weld that onto a piece of pipe that fits over the wheel bearings, and then make a flange to weld that to that would sit against the rotor but even with that setup you will not lose much length, I would guess less than an inch.

I guess I don't see why the hubs sticking out as far as they do is a big deal? Are you trying to run really narrow wheels? They do not stick out past the surface of factory wheels at all... they are well recessed.
 
He’s probably looking for traction on the street with a boosted engine.

That’s my guess anyhow.
You would be much better off keeping the regular transfer case and using 4x4 when you want to accelerate fast. As long as you are going straight and take it out of 4x4 before you turn it won't hurt anything. It would also be much stronger than an AWD transfer case.
 
I am not aware of anything like that ever being produced. You can get drive flanges for older rigs with various other axles but even those don't really subtract much length from the hub itself... inch or so maybe.

You could maybe take the inside splined piece of a locking hub, weld that onto a piece of pipe that fits over the wheel bearings, and then make a flange to weld that to that would sit against the rotor but even with that setup you will not lose much length, I would guess less than an inch.

I guess I don't see why the hubs sticking out as far as they do is a big deal? Are you trying to run really narrow wheels? They do not stick out past the surface of factory wheels at all... they are well recessed.
It's not that big of a deal, but I am going to run wheels that have a fairly low offset, so the hub would look pretty bad sticking out almost as far as the lip of the wheel. That, and if the hub wasn't sticking out so far I could run (hub centric) wheel spacers that are tall enough to allow me to run wheels with a smaller hub bore (more wheel variety).

You would be much better off keeping the regular transfer case and using 4x4 when you want to accelerate fast. As long as you are going straight and take it out of 4x4 before you turn it won't hurt anything. It would also be much stronger than an AWD transfer case.
That's the thing, I intend to race this truck on an autocross course. Plus maybe the occasional road course, considering how I'm not far from VIR, or Road Atlanta. 4x4 is certainly stronger, because it's a direct connection, but again it would need to be disconnected before any sort of tight turning, to avoid the risk of binding and breaking almost the entire front drivetrain. It's like a spool vs an LSD. Strength vs flexibility.
 
That's the thing, I intend to race this truck on an autocross course. Plus maybe the occasional road course, considering how I'm not far from VIR, or Road Atlanta. 4x4 is certainly stronger, because it's a direct connection, but again it would need to be disconnected before any sort of tight turning, to avoid the risk of binding and breaking almost the entire front drivetrain. It's like a spool vs an LSD. Strength vs flexibility.
If you really want full time 4x4 I would higly reccomend finding an NP242 transfer case and making it work. It is one of the only decent full time transfer cases there is, in stock form alone it is way stronger than an Aerostar transfer case and it can be upgraded with a wider chain and 6 pinion planetary gear if you need it to be stronger. For range selections it has 2wd, 4x4 part time, 4x4 full time, N and 4x4 low, also has no internal clutches or viscous coupler to wear out like most full time transfer cases.
 
Unless you want to completely make a custom lock from scratch I would think you are looking at an axel swap.

I don’t know what the what the setup on an awd explorer looks like, but here is what it looks like on a live axel setup.


I’ve not worked enough with both styles of 4wd axel to say how hard it might be to convert or maybe just a complete swap.
 

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I was checking out the 4matic system Mercedes uses. Its pretty much a transfer case grafted on the end of the transmission with a driveshaft sticking out the other way lol. Interesting stuff. There's even a u joint connection inside the housing!
 
If you really want full time 4x4 I would higly reccomend finding an NP242 transfer case and making it work. It is one of the only decent full time transfer cases there is, in stock form alone it is way stronger than an Aerostar transfer case and it can be upgraded with a wider chain and 6 pinion planetary gear if you need it to be stronger. For range selections it has 2wd, 4x4 part time, 4x4 full time, N and 4x4 low, also has no internal clutches or viscous coupler to wear out like most full time transfer cases.
How does it make the disconnect when needed in full-time, then? Is it like an auto locker differential? Pops in and out of lock as necessary?
 
How does it make the disconnect when needed in full-time, then? Is it like an auto locker differential? Pops in and out of lock as necessary?

When I’m 4x4part time or auto is will automatically lock up the transfer case when it detects wheel slip.

Frankly to me an automatic 4wd system doesn’t seem like the correct solution for this application. It’s more so people that don’t know how to drive can still drive in the snow.
 

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