Loud Engine with Ticking

[8thTon]

Looks like some welding was done on the cat flange too.

 

[rumblecloud]

I do not envy you Mr. Eightynine. I went through this on my 4.0. Manifolds were for sh*t. I was replacing the heads anyway and pulled them with the manifolds attached -- it was easier that way. Cut the Y-pipe to make it happen. Put on headers and drove it to a shop to have the exhaust put on from the headers back. $675 including the cat. Good luck.

 

[sgtsandman]

Exhaust tape might work, maybe. You still have the bolt on the back aide to deal with and that is a flex point. If it works, it won’t last long.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Exhaust tape might work, maybe. You still have the bolt on the back aide to deal with and that is a flex point. If it works, it won’t last long.

Thanks for the tips everyone.
Yeah I’m gonna try to double up the patch approach. I can definitely get tape over all the leaky spot. The second half is adding a U clamp. What is it like 1.5”? I figure if there’s enough manifold cast iron inside the Y pipe entry, I can clamp down a new U clamp close beside the wrecked bracket.
I’m hoping with that double approach I can postpone this from being urgent and see how good I can get the rest of the truck before committing to pulling the manifolds.

I’m the low key driver type, so would never go the custom headers route. I like lifted for the sake of getting up mountain trails. I would just be replacing the manifolds and Y pipe and keeping things mellow. And I do think everyone is correct about it not being worth the time trying to separate the Y pipe from the manifolds. That sh*t is rusted on. And missing a bolt already.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Your idea probably won't work.

Not being rude, just speaking from experience.


This is what the end of your manifold looks like.

Also, 2.9 manifold vs 2.9 header

 

[eightynine4x4]

Yeah it was a *pipe* dream.
I’m just gonna go nuts with tape and also consider a bit of a diy but secure clamping situation that pulls the juncture together as if the bolt was still doing its job.
Even if it’s just tape, and i have to redo it once every six months (I’m not driving a lot) it would be a perfectly acceptable 10-20$/year budget to delay the project.
But this is all assuming there isn’t a separate leak. I didn’t see any carbon anywhere else though, but I also wasn’t the eagle eye to catch it so who knows.
I’ll report back with odor results after doing just some tape

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Ok, now that im a little more lucid, ima try to save you some money.

Your passenger side donut gasket is MIA. No amount of tape, cement, or quickie repair crap will fix it.

When your engine is under load, it moves in its mounts - it's supposed to. The flexing in the exhaust system is partially mitigated by the ball and socket connections at the manifolds.

Your drivers side manifold (usually the one that cracks and breaks) still has its gasket:

Passenger side does not:

The only way to fix it, the ticking, and guessing poor performance is to toss a new donut and bolts in it. A reasonable shop will charge around 100 to do it. Otherwise, its around $15 in materials to diy.

Trust me, I tried the same thing. You'll get 10-20 miles out of a tape repair.


Edit: @rusty ol ranger, I think it has donuts. Does it? Been too long since I messed with a factory setup.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Rock auto says no donut.

I really wish I could remember


Either way, consider a repair flange as a better investment than tape as well:

 

[8thTon]

Listen to PJ and don't waste your time with exhaust patches, they just never work. You've got hot gases under pulsing high pressure and lots of vibration, with no place to get any seal. Plus that missing bolt just puts more stress on the remaining one, which won't be around long either.

The only proper tools for working on exhausts are cutoff wheels and sawzalls (if you don't have a cutting torch). Once you removed all the old stuff you put new stuff on - and those manifolds are old stuff. The manifold off the 5.8 in my old F250 had curled so bad I had to pry it off the remaining studs, and there would have been no way to put it back on. You'll just end up doing more work trying to avoid it, or to salvage the existing parts, and it won't be worth it.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Yep roger all that.
The truck isn’t even plated yet. Right now I’m mostly needing to stop feeling like I’m talking a year off my life every time I run the engine. I don’t even need 1 mile of lasting power for the tape. I taped it up half decently. It may need a better attempt but I’ll know soon.

I’m a little confused about the hardware though.. the missing bolt, it’s not a stud that was cracked off? Or was it. That is the major factor in cost for taking it to the shop. If it’s just a missing bolt and nut set, then yeah I could see them not charging much to just restore the OEM clamping system there. 100-200 seems right. But if I need either a new manifold or new Y pipe, then it’s different story.

Im also now confused about the donuts. One side has it, other doesn’t. Are we thinking the previous owner put one in?
Can’t wait for the Haynes to arrive (tomorrow)

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Lol. I have a pile of OEM manifolds. PM me if you need one. I use them as paperweights.

Y pipe is $50 on Rock auto. Dirt cheap item.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Success!
That is definitely the leak and it’s probably the only one. The engine seems quieter and there is no more toxic death hovering around. Just the occasional whiff of exhaust from tailpipe like any vehicle. Sitting in the cabin with windows open is pretty decent, as opposed to pending suicide.
I feel better having isolated the issue. I can somewhat ignore it for now while restoring in driveway so long as the five layers of partially wrapped tape stays in place.
I say somewhat because this certainly effects the overall performance, so I won’t be willing to wait long.
I need to do more homework about repairing the juncture. If both segments are healthy otherwise, the manifold and the y pipe, then I should attack just fixing the juncture. But if there’s a stud broken off, then it’s different.

 

[sgtsandman]

I can’t tell for certain from the picture. Chances are that the original bolt rusted to the point that it broke and a piece is stuck in the manifold flange.

The removal of the remaining piece is going to be the challenge. If you had a quote from the shop like it sounds like you did. It would be factoring in that problem. It will either require removing the manifold to work on removing the piece or removing the manifold to replace the manifold. Both are going to be a big job.

Even trying to drill out the piece with the manifold in place and not bugger up the flange is going to be work. Factor in the average $80-$100 per hour shop rate and materials, it’s going to add up quick.

 

[eightynine4x4]

I can’t tell for certain from the picture. Chances are that the original bolt rusted to the point that it broke and a piece is stuck in the manifold flange.

The removal of the remaining piece is going to be the challenge. If you had a quote from the shop like it sounds like you did. It would be factoring in that problem. It will either require removing the manifold to work on removing the piece or removing the manifold to replace the manifold. Both are going to be a big job.

Even trying to drill out the piece with the manifold in place and not bugger up the flange is going to be work. Factor in the average $80-$100 per hour shop rate and materials, it’s going to add up quick.

All right. Well, if i do go through with having a shop remove the manifold, the question will then be.. should i have them do the other side as well.
I'm just wondering what would have caused that bolt to break. Like if someone went to pull it and broke it, was there a need for repair of that spot, or were they just looking to do some routine replacement, or were they looking to modify the system with headers and what not.
And if none of those were true and the bolt somehow just broke on its own, then i should replace the other side as well. But if both manifolds would have held up fine if someone hadn't messed with one, then i should just replace the one in need.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

A shop will only charge a few dollars to change bolts. Very easy way to get away on the cheap with stuff like this.

@RonD