Lost a wheel/Hub. Where to go from here?

[GetItMuddy]

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Well, I WAS having brake issues....Took the truck down to a local shop and had them take care of the rear brakes and pressure bleed the system. Still no parking brakes but at least I can stop....well could.
Yesterday, picked up the truck from the shop.
It was snowing, the roads were horrible, people were morons and the city was sitting on its fat a$$ instead of plowing and salting. As such, had to use the 4 wheel drive.
Well, got out, locked her in , jumped back in, shifted to 4Hi....It didn't seem to engage. Shifted into gear, Held the transfer shifter in 4hi and let off the clutch and got a "clunk". Well, my 250 does that so...
Went to driving and heard like a clicking that sounded like front drivers (but Im not so certain now). The clicking seemed to speed with the truck and the transfer case would not stay engaged
Well, after a few miles and bunch of minutes, I got on the highway. Pulled off on the entrance ramp, unlocked the front hubs (Cuz the highways looked good) and put her back in 2WD.
Well, I got about 3 miles down the road and the front passenger wheel fell off. Rotor and all.
Couple guys tell me that the bearing locked up and the hub blew apart.
Ive got her home but havent had the chance to get a good look at her. Its been between 9* and 22* and I have no shop/garage, so she will sit until it warms up enough to get her taken care of. Until then, I will order my chiltons and get the parts together for the repair. Might as well do both sides...
What is it going to take to fix this thing?
Any and ALL advice is appreciated.
Someone talk me out of setting this B!t(h on fire!

 

[adsm08]

That might not be as bad as you think. It looks like a new rotor, new wheel bearings, and a dust seal. And what ever was damaged in the brakes.

It looks like the outer bearing failed and let the rotor walk away, which means the spindle should be OK.

 

[GetItMuddy]

The way you describe kinda sounds like what happened. The set up just kinda did a "step down" fall off....At first it felt like I lost the lug nuts and it dropped into the rim and rode before the wheel came completely out from under it.
Im not sure how good the spindle will be since I slid on it for a good 100' or so before I was able to get the truck fully stopped.

 

[bobbywalter]

scary.


with either front tire off the ground....how much slop is there in any one direction.

thats from your brake thread.


times i should be more of a dick i am not and times i try to not come off as a dick i do. i have to work on that.





this is me not being a dick. did you check it then? if not... wtf did you not jack up your truck and not check the play with the conditions you reported then. i do not understand why the shop did not catch this, it may have been a simple failure and just rolled off in a few miles.....

but any time you remotely question the handling or noises in a ttb truck......stop, jack it up, and check the fawking thing out.


if you do that, the wheels tend not to fall off.

now that you know the wheels will fall off, maybe you will buy a jack to allow you to quickly assess the situation if you dont already own one.. when i said scary in the brake post i should have elaborated on this.

 

[adsm08]

Im not sure how good the spindle will be since I slid on it for a good 100' or so before I was able to get the truck fully stopped.

You are making a common mistake here. You are confusing the knuckle and the spindle.

The knuckle is the part that the ball joints are pressed into, the caliper and tie rod attaches to, and it holds the spindle. This is the part that rode on the ground, and it will probably by ok.

The spindle is the piece in the center of the knuckle that is held on by 5 15mm nuts and has the bearings and the threads for the bearing nuts. If you rode on that at all the truck would be turned about 90* to an orientation that puts the passenger door more on the ground than it is.

 

[GetItMuddy]

Yeah, I guess I didn't look close enough or pay enough attention. It was 12* with snow blowing and cars going 70mph not 10' from where I was standing.
I do appreciate the input however. I have a spare to drive at the moment (Mommas Dodge 2500) but will look at it more this weekend, if I can. The lil woman is getting a bit annoyed with me working on vehicles all the time.
So far as I can tell, I am going to need the inner/outer bearings and races, bearing locknuts and thrust washer and what ever other parts were messed up in the "happening". Is this correct?
Also, is there any specific brand of these parts that would be recommended?

 

[adsm08]

I can't tell for sure from that pic because everything is greasy, but it doesn't look like the nuts were damaged. If you have manual hubs the nuts do require a special socket which should be available at just about any parts store.

As for brands, Timken bearings and what ever seal they have on hand. Don't forget to grease. Most guys say you have to pack the bearings and get it in everywhere before putting it together, I just gob it in all over the race, gob it all over the bearing, and put it all together and I haven't had any problems that way. You gotta figure the grease will get hot, and thin out, and flow into everything well before the bearings get hot enough for the metal to be damaged,

 

[bobbywalter]

I can't tell for sure from that pic because everything is greasy, but it doesn't look like the nuts were damaged. If you have manual hubs the nuts do require a special socket which should be available at just about any parts store.

As for brands, Timken bearings and what ever seal they have on hand. Don't forget to grease. Most guys say you have to pack the bearings and get it in everywhere before putting it together, I just gob it in all over the race, gob it all over the bearing, and put it all together and I haven't had any problems that way. You gotta figure the grease will get hot, and thin out, and flow into everything well before the bearings get hot enough for the metal to be damaged,

the reason for packing is the time it takes to melt, the galling damage has already occurred.

with sane sized well balanced tires i dont really have issues with these little back to back d28 and d35 turd setups.

with heavy shitty wobbly bias ply larger then reasonable tires and hard braking conditions and lots of miles daily improper packing of these bearings will show up quickly....real real quick.

packing bearings properly is pretty easy to do.

 

[GetItMuddy]

Ill get some better pictures tomorrow. It will be around 70 and sunshine! 2 days after 9* and 3" of snow!!
Ill be putting her in the air and cleaning her off tomorrow, as well as pulling the hub assembly off the wheel and cleaning and checking parts there as well.

 

[bobbywalter]

well hopefully it will just need some bearings and a caliper/pin kit. might need to tweek the caliper ears a bit...but usually they hold up.


make sure you seat the bearing races completely, i would have it checked/turned on a brake lathe if needed or possible. if its junk then a d35 swap might look like good money...but hopefully you can put it together and plan and save some loot for the swap when its nicer out.

 

[GetItMuddy]

Yeah, I definitely plan on the D35 swap if I can talk the lil lady into it. Gotta price the parts from the JY and find someone who can weld

 

[bobbywalter]

Yeah, I definitely plan on the D35 swap if I can talk the lil lady into it. Gotta price the parts from the JY and find someone who can weld

weld? making bumpers or long radius arms?



a full width ttb 44 swap and rear axle would have to be on the table if i had to crack a welder out.

 

[bobbywalter]

look up 4x4 junkies b2 build and say brinker 88.

i hold 4x4 junkies setup as the standard for the d35 setup. i think you will find it an outstanding and simple cost effective system to copy since your local yards have parts around..

 

[GetItMuddy]

I read here that the explorer shock mount had to be cut and rewelded to the opposite side or the diff.
Not a concern at the moment though. First things first.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I read here that the explorer shock mount had to be cut and rewelded to the opposite side or the diff.
Not a concern at the moment though. First things first.

I don't think that affects the front axle. The back axle on the explorer has the spring perch welded on the opposite side as compared to a Ranger, and I think there is a difference with the shock mounting plates. There is a kit to mount the spring on the opposite side without welding. Usually used for lowering purposes, but will work the opposite.