Looses RPMS When Warm (couldnt blow it up warm if i wanted)

[vpcoded]

ok i have the dizz in my lap looking at it now the pin you speak of is it rt above the teeth of the gear a hollow pin. best way to beat it out ? hammer and nail lol

 

[vpcoded]

well i got the pin out and while trying to get the gear off of th shaft no luck chipped the gear on the top half hoping i didnt **** it up to bad

 

[vpcoded]

well i broke the plate that spins the rotor trying to get the gear back on

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I bought a code reader on craigs list for $10 but you can get one at the parts store last I checked for around $30 the main thing I was going to say is try and put a new oring on the distributor before you put it back in for sh&%s and giggles.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I should have read further sounds like a rebuilt or the bone yard I hate it when that happens

 

[vpcoded]

Yeah it sucked. Good story tho A few weeks ago i saw a ranger identical to mine so i flagged em down to listen to the motor and get a look under the hood so i knew where all my vac lines ect went. He gave me his number and said he had extra parts to give em a call if i needed somthing. I had called a few times for other parts but never got a answer tried again today and said he had one at his house so im going to snatch that up . Got to love old ranger owner hospitality. Man i hope this cures the loss of RPM issues i have high hopes

 

[vpcoded]

Also i can rotate the cam shaft with the intake off . I pulled the dist with the rotor pointing at the number 1 cylender post by big jims bumping the starter. The dist pulled out easy. Now my question is should my timing marks show 12deg before TDC or somthing in that area. I dont belive it dose. Any info on this would be helpfull can i get the timing close enough to drive it to a friends with a timing light.

P.S. haynes was left out in the rain so waiting for it to dry might be psting a lot of questions in this thread ha ha.

 

[Big Jim M]

When reinstalling the dist don't think about anything except putting it back in there with the rotor pointing zackly where it pointed when you took it out.. The timing marks are ONLY for a timing light... NOT for anything else.
Big JIm

 

[vpcoded]

alright i will place it back where the rotor was pointing when pulled. Is there a way since i can move the rotor via turning the cam, i can start at the begining and get this right would i pull num one spark plug rotate cam till i feel air coming out of the hole then find when the pistion reachs its TDC then place the dist facing where the 1 plug will be or will the rotor be pointing at the cylender location its self ? lol if not i will just do what u said lol
thanks for the help

 

[dennis461]

Compression check done?

 

[vpcoded]

No compression check done yet i went to do one yesterday and the gauge that i have is cross threaded so i have to pick up a new one.

 

[vpcoded]

well i belive that i seated the Dizz in the exact same state as it was removed. i Put it all back togeather today and still had a loss of power I belive that it was more out of time when i first drove it and it lost power. The reason i think this is the backfire was more noticeable tho i did keep RPMs a little better than before. I dont have a timing light ATM gonna pick one up tommorow. When pulling the Dizz as well as before when i replaced the TFI/Pick up i noticed the clamp was not tight and the dizz was movable as well as possibly moved when i was replacing the oil pump. Could this thing being out of time since i did this and it is what is causing my problems / symptoms. I messed with the dizz some more later on in the day and let it run for a while and moved a trailer around some I didnt loose any power but didnt really get to drive it ither. No cats keeps getting me pulled over by lake security lol so i dont drive after dark.

 

[vpcoded]

Ok purchased compressiontester today along with timing light.
Was amazed to see timing was 12 deg BTDC with spout removed after me messing with is so much with out a light.
I just did the compression check but truck was only semi warm i was just getting a idea of doing the compression test. I used a remote start and it was gravy started with #1 cyl removed plug (i didnt remove all of the plugs dose that matter i was told this way was ok as well) opended throttle all the way and cranked motor 4 revolutions and results were 180 this was the result on all 6 cyls. is that because i didnt remove all plugs and it read eng as a whole ? I am going to check timing when symptoms occur as well as a compression test again. Should i go with all plugs out or dose thi matter ?

 

[vpcoded]

O 31 memory 14 54 31
dose ne one think the 14 triped when i changed the PIP out or when the dizz was changed. first time i have saw the 54 and i have had the 31 a while

 

[Robert_1967]

I don't think it matters if you pull one plug at a time or not, i would think not, pulling them all would allow the engine to turn over easier.


Robert