Looking at a welder

[mp3deviant721]

I dunno if this would be the right section for asking about a welder, but I figured since I'm not actually fabricating anything right now I'd figure I'd ask here.

This is the one I'm looking at:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00982888000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

Reason being is that it's affordable, has the ability to convert to gas welding if needed, and it's 115v which will allow me to run an extension cord out to my driveway if needed. Now my real question comes in here, would I be able to use this with gas to do suspension fabrication or bumper fabrication? Would this also work good for body work, exhaust, and light frame repair? I really don't have the cash to buy a Miller, Hobart, or Lincoln, and this seems to fit the budget. Nor do I want to buy a used welder, I'd rather start with something fresh out of the box and maybe eventually in the future buy a really good Miller or Hobart welder. Any and all comments are appreciated.

 

[86 slo-vo]

dont put a welder on an extension cord, unless its a very big cord. its asking for trouble.

as for the welder it depends on what you want to do with it, i would weld anything that is going to have some serious weight or pressure on it.

body work exhaust etc are fine. suspension links etc dont waste your time.

 

[WNY964x4]

dont put a welder on an extension cord, unless its a very big cord. its asking for trouble.

as for the welder it depends on what you want to do with it, i wouldn't weld anything that is going to have some serious weight or pressure on it.

body work exhaust etc are fine. suspension links etc dont waste your time.

agree with Slo-Vo , if you are gonna do suspension shit you want a heavy duty MIG , in the 200+ Amp range than runs on 208-230v Single , the one i have right now is a Mac MIG , 115V 145 Amp and the most i am gonna do with it is backracks , minor body work , exhausts and the top plates on my bumpers.

As for frame repairs and Bumper Fab , Nothin Penetrates or Holds as good as a good ol Arc welder , which is gonna be my next purchase , i dont know about you but when i am getting pulled out or winching someone out , i want my bumper to hold

just my .02

 

[mp3deviant721]

I probably wouldn't be able to afford suspension mods that involve welding anyways. And when the time comes that I can, probably will be able to afford a good welder anyhow. Also, how big of an extension cord would I have to get?

I guess for bumper work I could look to get an arc welder. Those were pretty inexpensive.

 

[WNY964x4]

I probably wouldn't be able to afford suspension mods that involve welding anyways. And when the time comes that I can, probably will be able to afford a good welder anyhow. Also, how big of an extension cord would I have to get?

I guess for bumper work I could look to get an arc welder. Those were pretty inexpensive.

i was just looking at Hobart Arc welders and the Stickmate 235 is $320 , which i didnt think was too bad seeing as we have $1400 laid out right now between the MIG and the Plasma Cutter

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm using a lincoln with basically the same specs. I use a construction grade extension cord [~8 gauge] and I will have to let the welder 'cool' every ~2" of weldment. That's when I'm welding stuff approx. 1/8" thick. You can weld thicker stuff too, you just have to do more than one pass. I've welded my shock brackets - 1/4" [.250"]thick to my roll cage, it's .120" thick... it's not too tricky. Make sure to clean the flux before doing another pass. I've bought but not installed the kit to use solid core wire, but my research leads me to believe that I can't weld as thick with that setup. I'll use it when I start doing body work ie; patch panels. I hope it'll be less cleaning then. One of the things I'm glad that came with my unit is an adapter that let's me use 10# rolls of wire, it's cheaper in the long run and less hassle changing wire spools less often.
I've made tow brackets, shock supports, seat brackets, coil buckets to new shock supports and numerous other things and haven't broke any yet [knock on wood]. I would suggest taking a course or getting a friend to show you the ropes before tackling any major welds, especially on the frame or suspension. Even the bumper is going to be crucial if your in an accident.
As WNY964x4 says, an arc welder is also a good investment.
Edit; one of the nice things about this small of a welder is I can use my 5000 watt generator and still get decent welds, that has come in real handy at the track.

Richard

 

[MrE_Powers]

you can get a decent lincoln,hobart welder in your price range on craigs list if you aare patient. i had a harborfreight special once and if it werent for the 60$ price i bought it for i would regret the purchase

 

[1freaky1]

One thing to keep in mind when looking for a welder is the duty cycle the lower the # the less time you can be welding, example the one you are looking at from Sears you can weld 12 minutes out of 1 hour = 20%. The high the percentage the more welding you can be doing. Also the higher the amp output the better the weld penetration you will have.

 

[94 lngbd]

if you do get this welder make sure the outlet your plugged into is at least a 20 amp circuit as 15 amps will constantly pop on you & about an extension cord it needs to be made up of very heavy electrical wire like the size you see used on dryers or ranges as there power leads. You might not find something like that at your local hardware store made up as an extension cord ,BUT you may be able to by 50'-100' of the wiring & make your own extension cord.

if you want you can wire it up to plug into a dryer or range out let even though they are 230v & are either 30-50 amp breakers. Only look up ONE of the hot leads to you plug in as the 220+ out lets are actually 2 110+ positives with a single ground.

most flux core welders wont allow & its also hard to find .023 wire in the flux core style,which is ideal wire size for doing body work. but even if you switch it to run off of an argon bottle the wheels that feed the wire usually aren't set up to handle the smaller wire.

FYI:most quality welding supplies even rent out welders & plasma cutters.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ good info, thanks.

Richard

 

[RatDog8o8]

I went ahead and ran a separately-breakered outlet to the driveway, with a 20amp breaker, just so I could weld without interruption. I only have a Campbell-Hausfeld flux-core wire rig that's 110v. Just a normal outdoors-type outlet/box setup.

 

[94 lngbd]

ratdog8o8: are you in Iowa or Wa. state as they both have Des Moines

 

[mp3deviant721]

I went ahead and ran a separately-breakered outlet to the driveway, with a 20amp breaker, just so I could weld without interruption. I only have a Campbell-Hausfeld flux-core wire rig that's 110v. Just a normal outdoors-type outlet/box setup.

How does your welder work for you? Do you like it? And what do you use it for?

 

[Will]

I have a 120V mig and a 240V stick. My advice is to get a 240V stick.

I use the mig on exhaust pipe and things.

The problem with the 120v mig is that the wire feeds at a certain speed, and you have to live with it. You can lay a really pretty bead up on top of your work, which has no penetration or strength. For what average people want to do, the stick is more reliable. Really, you nead 240V to be in the game, either way. It's easy to get--all houses have it since 1950. For a beginner, a 120V mig will pile up bead without penetrating. A 240V stick will weld the metal together. Just start you projects in 1'8" steele until you get used to it. Set the welder at 140amps and turn it down as your skills at striking the arc increase.

 

[RatDog8o8]

I'm in Iowa.

I like my welder. It works good on stuff up to 3/16" materials, which is what I've built several bumpers out of for local Jeep owners. Just enough machine to do what I need around here. Built a rolling cart for it, first thing.