Lockrite Acting up, I think?

[legoms013]

I just changed from auto hubs to manual hubs hoping this would clear up but it hasnt.

I have a dana 35 lockright installed and when I drive around with the hubs locked, and go to make a sharp turn over a certain speed, it *seems* like the lockright cant ratchet and unlock quick enough. It starts to do its ratchet noises/clunks and as they get faster and faster its starts to bind up. Giving this herky jerky feeling as im steering. I can reproduce this in a parking lot all day long by turning in a circle faster and faster. It only happens when I make a tight turn above a certain speed (like 15mph?).

It actually is bad enough to where it can really be felt inside the cab. Its like the gears dont have enough time to get in the grooves and end up on top of themselves in the locker.

Is this normal? Ive had it in for about 5000 miles, and has been actually turning in the drivetain probably 1000 miles so I would hope that its broken it by now.

And before you go and flame me and say "just unlock your hubs and stop complaining" Im the kind of person that wants to know everything is working as it should instead of sticking my head in the sand. If it turns out this happens to everyone I will then just unlock my hubs and forget about it...............................................


THANKS!

 

[Hahnsb2]

I think you answered your own question, just unlock your hubs, you're subjecting it to unneeded wear.

If it works fine in 4wd when you actually need it, there isn't a problem IMO..

 

[legoms013]

This is true.

I would also like to find out if anyone else has had this phenomenon...I don't want to grenade a hub or axle shaft just cuz the unit might not be working properly.

 

[Explorin94]

Reread the directions of your locker. They specifically state not to run like that. It will cause premature wear to the locker and void the warranty.

 

[legoms013]

eww. ok let me dig thru my paperwork....

As far as I can see the manual says driving in 2wd drive with the hubs locked in shouldn't normally present a problem. And any excessive noise or harsh engagement should be looked into. There are only three things to hear/listen for according the manual: tire chirp, ratcheting "clicks" and a deep sounding clunk from the backlash when putting it in gear or reversing direction.

None of that deters me from running around in 2wd with the hubs locked.

There is also nothing in the warranty literature about "how to run it/not run it".

Explorin94, what do you mean by "running it like that" specifically? Driving in circles? Or just hubs engaged in 2wd?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Sounds like normal operation to me.

 

[Will]

The front tires change speeds a lot during normal driving. The faster tire unlocks itself, so just weaving the wheel slightly in a straight line will almost instantly switch from one tire to the other trying to unlock. Even in 2wd it's switching and with no load on it, I think the spinning gearset and axles and driveshaft are carrying enough energy in them for them to hammer when you try to switch axles suddenly. Keep in mind that in 2wd the axle is powering the diff instead of the diff powering the axle. Both axles are trying to outrun the diff. It's not the way it was designed to be operated. It doesn't hurt it--I leave mine locked in. But if you don't like the noise, unlock the hubs.

Do the function check in the manual to make sure everything is working correctly to assure yourself that nothing is broken.

I've had my front locker in for 8 years through several hub and shaft failures and even a torn front beam and broken radius arm. If it was installed correctly, it's not delicate.

 

[strvger]

don't suppose it would be the drive shaft length due to your lift? just a thought.

 

[legoms013]

The front tires change speeds a lot during normal driving. The faster tire unlocks itself, so just weaving the wheel slightly in a straight line will almost instantly switch from one tire to the other trying to unlock. Even in 2wd it's switching and with no load on it, I think the spinning gearset and axles and driveshaft are carrying enough energy in them for them to hammer when you try to switch axles suddenly. Keep in mind that in 2wd the axle is powering the diff instead of the diff powering the axle. Both axles are trying to outrun the diff. It's not the way it was designed to be operated. It doesn't hurt it--I leave mine locked in. But if you don't like the noise, unlock the hubs.

What really makes sense is what you said about the axles driving the carrier when in 2wd. In essence its running backwards. Which isn't what it was *designed* to do.

 

[Sunk]

Yeah mine did that, so I never drove on the street with hubs locked in.

 

[brianjwilson]

If that is normal operation it is garbage.
The Aussie locker I had in the front of my sport trac with live axles was completely transparent in 2wd. At low speeds you could hear light clicking but there was zero resistance or feedback. If the windows were up you wouldn't have a clue there was a locker up there.

 

[legoms013]

If that is normal operation it is garbage.
The Aussie locker I had in the front of my sport trac with live axles was completely transparent in 2wd. At low speeds you could hear light clicking but there was zero resistance or feedback. If the windows were up you wouldn't have a clue there was a locker up there.

Thats what I was thinking when I made the post. What about all the people with live axle setups in the new rangers running aussies? I just thing its not right that this locker binds up and almost sends me in the wrong direction with the hubs locked in. It sure isnt mentioned in the manual to do or don't do.

 

[4x4junkie]

Did you check for proper clearance between the couplers when you installed it?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Are you sure it didn't do it before you put the locker in?

My '85 with a factory open front diff will start bucking and carrying on with the front hubs locked in even in 2wd if I turn real sharp, the u-joints bind up.

Newer rigs, (like the mentioned SportTrac) have CV joints instead of u-joints especially to get around that... they don't bind up as easy.

 

[Hahnsb2]

If that is normal operation it is garbage.
The Aussie locker I had in the front of my sport trac with live axles was completely transparent in 2wd. At low speeds you could hear light clicking but there was zero resistance or feedback. If the windows were up you wouldn't have a clue there was a locker up there.

IME Aussies are "tighter" than Lock-rights which might be what the difference is, you also had CV joints which probably helps.. Still, there's no reason to drive with the hubs locked when not needed, it's still unnecessary wear.