Lima drifting build

[SloRanger23]

Hey everyone, I have been reading this forums forever and as my parts are piling up and I’m really starting to get heavily into the build. I need a build thread to keep track of the build and to motivate me. This is a new platform and I could use all the help/ advice I can get. The Ranger is to be a learning tool before I start a larger build. So I’m going to trying to do everything in and out side my wheel house. This is how it all started: late one Sunday night, I threw 2 rods out opposite sides of my G37s block. After another motor and a long story, all computers in “G” took a dump.... the G had to go and it was new project time.

 

[SloRanger23]

Friend of mine had a 92 xlt, reg cab, short bed, 2.3/ 2wd/ 5 speed, that had been sitting in his family’s farm for awhile. After a jump start and not much money later, I had a very dirty but in good shape mini truck.

 

[SloRanger23]

The truck had a unique smell and a thick layer of dirt in every spot of the truck even after a good scrub. Started with the interior, I ripped the old carpet out and had to fix the fallen headlinear. Fake black suede went on the headlinear and it came out great. Found out that trying to wrap the dash is easier outside the truck and because of the cold I will need to do it again in the next month or so. Pulled all the trim and wrapped it in fake black vinyl, did the rear of the cab in left over suede. The doors got powered windows with vinyl wrap panels with suede inserts. I now know why interior work cost what it does. I later put in new black carpet, black seatbelts and (fake) dynomatted everything but the roof, which I will be doing when I redo the dash. Plastidipped the dash bezel and vents black. It’s a Mini Truck so it got a stereo. Threw two powered 10”s behind the seats, 4x 100 Infiniti amp powering Orion Cobalt components. For $70 for all speakers, the 6x9 and 6.5 are great, the tweeter sucks. Paired it with 360 backup cam on China’s best single din 7” screen. You have to write a list out of all the things you want and make sure there in the ad when buying China’s best.

 

[SloRanger23]

Do yourself the favor and spend the $50 for power windows. They really work well. You can see some of the matting. I just made the wiring safe but not neat and have an 2013 mustang power distribution box I’ll use to clean up the wiring when I start the MegaSquirt install.

 

[SloRanger23]

Happened upon a dusty but never mounted, set of Rota RKR, staggered on FB market place. They were half off the retail price and I couldn’t buy them fast enough. The fronts are 17x 8.5 -10 offset and the tears are 17x 9.5 -20 offset. Went with Federal 595 245/45/17 up front and 275/40/ 17 in the rear. I had to pull the large dent on my driver side, front fender to keep that tire running but everything else fits perfect. I think they should tuck when I lower it. The tires are cheap but wear great, low noise, do good in rain and rides well. At that price I will have no issue shredding them and recommend them to anyone that doesn’t need the stickiest tire out there.

 

[SloRanger23]

The brakes scared the crap out of me. They just wouldn’t grip. New hardware, wheel cylinders, shoes for the drums. Did 95 spindles up front, had a bracket made, to clear the 12” sport track drilled and slotted rotors, EBC yellowstuff pads. Go with the red stuff if your buying EBC, I’ll be switching to them. Painted the calipers red and the spindles black. Changed out to a Dodge 2500 master cylinder, flushed the lines using dot 4 and now she stops like a dream. I have a 8.8 with disk for the rear but have to build the rear end first. Added Moog ball joints and timken bearings while I was in there.

 

[SloRanger23]

Upgrade to 130a power master for all the electronics and added the E60 bmw seats. I made the old pan work with the BMW pan and has to cut an inch off of the seat to make them fit. Took out the BMW heated seat, installed an after market heated seat and wired all the motors in the seat to rocker switches. I fit comfortably at 5’8” but 6’ wouldn’t!

 

[Snoranger]

Looks like it will be a nice build... Im still not selling the DJM beams.

 

[SloRanger23]

Looks like it will be a nice build... Im still not selling the DJM beams.

Hahaha. I didn’t need the shocks or flip kit anyways. Man, I didn’t realized I put that much work in it. I still have a bunch to add! Thanks for the idea to document. Now I’ll have record of it. What about those clears?

 

[Snoranger]

Hahaha. I didn’t need the shocks or flip kit anyways. Man, I didn’t realized I put that much work in it. I still have a bunch to add! Thanks for the idea to document. Now I’ll have record of it. What about those clears?

HA... Not in this lifetime.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Nice build so far!

 

[SloRanger23]

Big fan of the MaxTow series gauges. Get the digital and analog read at a third of the cost of auto meter/ AEM. If you have EDIS, do yourself a favor and use the wire off the backside of the instrument cluster. I tried off of the ignition module, into the computer and only got a correct reading off that wire. FWIW I had a nasty short in fords crap wiring that was probably my issue all along.

 

[SloRanger23]

Got a cosworth style IC and aluminum radiator for Merkur as a package deal with other parts. To be honest I would have been better off keeping the IC and selling the radiator but the man challenge got in the way. Radiator system is now an expansion tank system and it’s all in there. Radiator support is hacked to hell but is braced and the hood pins will be put in soon. My Rachet strap does a grey job holding the hood down, until then. Getting rid of the mechanical fan, flushing the radiator fluid, new water pump and thermostat were well worth it. I picked up 2 more miles per gallon and the truck pulls a little better.

 

[stmitch]

Those wheels look awesome on there!

 

[SloRanger23]

Those wheels look awesome on there!

Thanks. I look forward to getting rid of the wheel gap.
You’re showing me up with the lowered updated body.