Lift Block and Torsion Key Q's

[99rangerstd3.0]

Hey all, tomorrow's payday, you know what that means... the truck's goin up!

I just have a few questions before I go on an ordering spree. It's a '99 ranger 4x4 and I'm looking to take the back up 2", and the front 3" with the 3" torsion keys. And i'm sorry if I repeat questions already answered, i've spent the last 2 nights looking and looking and haven't found any straight forward answers.

My questions mostly include the rear:

1st Q: Where can you order just blocks that will fit on these trucks? (once again i'm looking to go up from stock 2", i measured and the stock blocks on the long side of the taper are about 2 1/2") and are those add-a-blocks or do they replace the stock blocks completely? I am trying to shrug away the add-a-blocks, but I would weld them on the stock's if I had to.

I don't want to use longer shackles or add-a-leafs, 4" longer shackles seem like they would allow for too much 'sway' and I don't want to stiffen the already-amazing ride of the stock leafs by putting an extra leaf in there.

2nd Q: putting an extra 2" in the rear and 3" in the front, is it recommended that I replace the shocks? There's a chance that I don't HAVE to since i couldn't find where everyone was saying so, but I want the oppinion of anyone who has tried them.

Thanks for the help!

Kevin

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Please....do not even consider torsion keys....it has been discussed over and over on this site to death.

http://www.therangerstation.com/for...archinfo=1&photoplog_searchquery=torsion+keys

Also...larger blocks increase rear axle wrap or spring windup on acceleration...also stacking blocks is horrible. If you don't want a stiffer ride...the extended shackles are really the best option. Increased sway is really not an issue.

I would look into doing a torsion bar crank (check the tech library for this mod), getting some alignment cams installed and get it aligned...and add some shackles to the back.

 

[Yellowsplash]

Exactly...

 

[Chance]

Yeah, pretty much. Never ever stack blocks, and I usually try to get out of using the factory block too.

You won't need to raise the back of your truck very much at all and it will still be level if you crank the t-bars (I think my ass end was still higher than the front after I cranked mine) so you could get by with a 2 or 3 inch longer shackle.

 

[99rangerstd3.0]

I had never mentioned that I wanted or even had much intention to put added blocks in it, I had asked if there were any known places to get blocks that replaced the stock blocks and gave it an extra 2", and if not necessairly available I would weld them solid. I'm not doing this to just level out the truck, and i'm not just trying to give it bigger tires (where i would just put a body lift on it). I want to raise the rear 2" without modifying the suspension (leaving me with only blocks, or shackles... but I hate the idea of having 4" longer shackles hanging down over just another 2" of block from the ~2.5 inch blocks that are stock on it.

And as for the front, i want to go up 3" (give 2" of lift and 1" to help appear level). And I know the 3" key is a bad idea, but i figured if i got 1 1/2" keys and did a torsion twist to accomodate for the rest (unless please tell me if i'm mistaken) would be a good 'inbetween' point.

I'm sorry i can't afford to put a proper lift on my truck and am too stubborn to just put add-a-leafs on, but I'm just tryin to get by with what i have in order to give my truck a little better off-road capability and would appreciate any pointers that can get me torwards achieving that.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

With the 3" keys or the 1.5" keys and a crank you will achieve the same thing....more lift than the front suspension can handle. You will have no down travel left on the suspension, you will wear balljoints like crazy because of the excessive operating angle they will be at, and it is hard on CV joints. We are giving you pointers in the right direction in ride quality and off road performance. I'm sorry if it isn't what you wanted to hear, but it is the truth. We have seen this a million times here before.

Leaving the stock block and adding an extended shackle, will give you the 2" of rear lift you are looking for without extra axle wrap caused by tall blocks and will add suspension flex and a better ride. They will not cause problems.

Cranking the stock keys is as high as you want to go (about 1.5-2")

If you want more to fit bigger tires, really a body lift is the only cost effective way to go unfortunately.

Not really sure how many more ways we can go about explaining this?!

 

[Chance]

with what i have in order to give my truck a little better off-road capability and would appreciate any pointers that can get me torwards achieving that.

Easiest way for off road capability in the rear is longer shackles, better leaves (as in more thin leaves such as deaver or all pro leaf springs, not that add-a-leaf junk that just stiffens the suspension), or both.

As for the front, it aint happening without a very very expensive or custom kit. Cranking the bars/new torsion keys gives you crap ride quality and is from what I noticed a helluva lot harsher off road. The only reason I ever cranked mine was the 32's rubbed ever so gently when I first put em on. I never really ever got enough suspension travel to make the 33's rub either.

So in short, other than modifying the rear suspension and getting some fancy ass kit, the only way to "improve" off road capability is to shove as big as tires as you can on there, which is probably most easily attained with the assistance of a body lift.

Well, you could always improve your breakover, approach, and departure angles but my guess is that's wayyyyy more work and money than you'd wanna put into it.

I still wish I woulda shoved the 35's on my truck before I cut the suspension out.

Done rambling now.

 

[BowTech99]

quick question. Cranking the T-bars on a 98 ranger with code 1 bars, 2", will i need alignment cams? If so where can i get them? ford?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Ford, or any shop that does alignments should have them/be able to get them.

Any time you lift or lower it, it will effect your camber/caster and will need the eccentrics to adjust it.

 

[TwoTrackMind]

I dunno where you can get them, try regular part stores like Advance/Napa.

A few years ago I was having an alignment done and my mechanic said I needed them. I said OK and he just got them and finished the alignment... So you might try that.

 

[99rangerstd3.0]

hey thanks guyes. sorry i was bein so stubborn, guess i just needed some sense knocked into me

Time for plan B: torsion twist till she's level, and debate a body lift in the mean time. One reason why i'm a bit edgy on the BL is cause all the t-case and transmission skid plates hang down enough as it is, I would think it would just look flat dumb if the body sat up an extra 3".

New question: With the torsion twist just enough to level it, everone says it will fit 32's but there isn't jack sh*t for selection with the 16" rims. But 275/65r16's are just a touch smaller than 32's aren't they? I won't need new tires for a while, but when it comes time that's what I would like to go to if I wouldn't have any problems running them.

 

[BowTech99]

sweet. I'll prolly just take it to ford and have them align it. They should have the alignment cams needed. thanks ya'll

 

[TwoTrackMind]

A 1" body lift should not be so bad. It doesnt involve much more than a dozen sacrificial hockey pucks and longer bolts. And some side step bars help hide the ugly thats exposed underneath.

Im running 32x11.50x15 - 10" wide rims w/ 5" backspacing - with only torsion lift. Only clearance issues were with the back of the inner fender splash shields. I fixed that by heating and flattening the high spots. I also rerouted the parking brake cable slightly and tied back the driverside shield with tiewraps (you'll see what I mean if you try it). Been doing just fine for several years now... (Although with manufacturing tolerances as they are, Your milage may vary)

I'll prolly just take it to ford and have them align it. They should have the alignment cams needed.

I dunno 'bout that... Ive had problems that Ford will not do what Ford has not created. Regular shops usually know the real world while the dealer would rather make an excuse for you to need a new vehicle. Good luck and just take it somewhere else if they give you grief.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Ford sells the alignment cams....so yes, a Ford dealer should be able to do the alignment for you.

 

[Chris.S.]

Time for plan B: torsion twist till she's level, and debate a body lift in the mean time. One reason why i'm a bit edgy on the BL is cause all the t-case and transmission skid plates hang down enough as it is, I would think it would just look flat dumb if the body sat up an extra 3".

New question: With the torsion twist just enough to level it, everone says it will fit 32's but there isn't jack sh*t for selection with the 16" rims. But 275/65r16's are just a touch smaller than 32's aren't they? I won't need new tires for a while, but when it comes time that's what I would like to go to if I wouldn't have any problems running them.

I agree about your hesitation on the BL, I've seen some Rangers rolling around with a 3"BL and between the skidplates hanging low, the receiver hitch sitting way down and the gaps under the bed and bumper they can look pretty bad if not done right. I may eventually get a 2" BL but only with gap guards and rear bumper brackets-hopefully 2" won't be as noticeable as 3" on the other points...

I run 265/75/16 (31.6") on my 2010 with only a 2" tt and they fit just fine-a little rubbing at full steer but that's probably because my tires have a very aggressive side lug to them...