Kyle M's Ranger Rebuild

[Kyle M.]

It will be fine. The trans crossmember will be remade and the arms will clear the frame fine. I am going for belly clearance and down travel, up travel will be limited to only a few inches because I want it that way. Thanks for your input though

Edit: I just went and measured and with my clearanced crossmember I am still getting 5 to 6 inched up travel. I would bet I can get clost to 10" with new crossmember. The new crossmember will be inbord of the frame, should have done it when i messed with the first one.

 

[Kyle M.]

Got some work done

New tranny crossmember, still not done. Not sure if I love it, but it will get the job done.

Front tire lifted, clearance testing

Hitting the engine crossmember....gonna clear it and gusset up the top

Thats all, thanks for looking!

 

[mp3deviant721]

It might be too late, but do you still have parts off 2wd cab? I really need a driver's side seat belt buckle.

 

[Kyle M.]

Yup, still have em

 

[Kyle M.]

Picked up some new parts today, got new calipers, pads, seals, gear install kit with shims, picked up my shortened drive shaft and got a sweet deal on a set of drive flanges. They are factory ones, the drive shaft shop has a stack of used ones (like new) paid $40 for them! Way better than the $220 I was gonna pay! Now all I have to do is put it all together!

 

[Bray D]

Pretty good buy on the stock flanges. They're still weaker than the aftermarket ones though. IIRC they have holes drilled in them for whatever reason. Aftermarket flanges have solid pucks.

Fawkit. Run em till they break. They may be stronger than a stock lockout.

 

[Kyle M.]

The dude at the drive line shop said I would never break em....we will see. I don't see the holes causing any issues, the aftermarket ones I looked at had 3 or 4 tapped holes in em to hold the cover on. He also told me my factory spicer hubs are the only hubs he would run and I kinda believe him, he sold hubs for the last 30 years(warn dealer). I was shocked to hear it really, just figured they were junk.

I can get you a set of flanges if you want me to.

 

[Bray D]

I think this is the thread I remember reading:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=795970&highlight=drive+flange

guy said he was breaking the pucks with the holes in em. Swapped to a solid puck and started breaking other things instead.

It wouldn't hurt to have a cheap set as spares though. What do the caps look like/how are they held on?

For the record I'm still wheelin with one Warn Premium lockout and one stock lockout. I was hoggin pretty hard on some stuff last weekend and the stocker is still holdin on strong.

 

[Kyle M.]

They are held in with snap rings and a spring behind it(same as the factory spicer ones). For a cap, you just use a press in cap, I have 2 chrome ones.

 

[Kyle M.]

Big update time

rear crossmember done. I added tow points, they are welded front and rear of the crossmember and I also added two 1/2" tapped holes on the side to go thru the frame for extra strength

Diff cover, need to weld it

Shortedned drive shaft in its home

Steering and track bar parts made, I will get a picture later of it put on, fits good and flexs fine.

Lower shock mounts

I machined a 1/4" step in the cap to allow the space for the spring mount, should be really strong. I have some cleaning up to do on these.

Shock hoops made

I am happy with these also! I have a lot of gusseting to do where the shocks mount and where the hoops mount. I am going to make a removable bar that connects the 2 hoops together at the shock mounts, that is why those look like they are just hanging out, but I want to wait to get the cab on for fitment. I set my springs up for 6" compression and 10" droop. I will probably set up some bumps at about 5" and strap it at about 9"....should be sweet!

Tack bar....thought I was good, had it made, mount tacked into place then I found when I mounted the shocks they were going to hit when i flex

I want to keep the track bar in that spot for the best fitment on the bar

Unless someone has a better idea, I will rework the frame side track bar to be more under the frame to gain some space, but then the track bar will be shorter than the draglink (it already is, about 2" and I don't want to go any shorter, but I will if I have too)

That is all, thanks for looking!

 

[Iron Ranger]

That's a pretty cool diff cover!!

Where'd you get it from?

 

[Kyle M.]

Ruffstuff, I like it and I saved about 30 bucks by getting it unwelded

 

[Iron Ranger]

Where do you go to get them un-welded? I'm looking at the site now and they all look welded............

 

[Kyle M.]

Where do you go to get them un-welded? I'm looking at the site now and they all look welded............

IDK where I found it...can't seem to find it anymore. It cost me $73 for the unwelded one. Maybe send em an email

 

[88_Eddie]

looks awesome