2.3L ('83-'97) Keeps cranking

[Otto57]

I bypassed the RELAY on the fenderwell and the starter kept cranking when I released from it. It is getting constant power at the starter after releasing the power from the relay. So, the relay is sticking and sending nonstop power to the starter or the power from the ignition switch to the relay is constant. I believe now that it is a bad relay because the relay also sends 12 volts to the coil and I have no spark. My head hurts.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Unless I'm mixed up somehow.

We have a classic case of being mixed up.

Ford used the starting system I describe for several decades... slight changes with the starter... but basically the same.

And yes... there is a relay that connects when active the battery cable to the starter.

 

[James Morse]

Ok. I get it now.

I'll offer moral support instead...

 

[Otto57]

We have a classic case of being mixed up.

Ford used the starting system I describe for several decades... slight changes with the starter... but basically the same.

And yes... there is a relay that connects when active the battery cable to the starter.

Update. So now I have replaced the starter relay and ignition switch and the constant cranking has stopped. I still have a no spark issue. I have now replaced the coil, ignition module, distributor cap and rotor, key switch, ignition switch and starter relay. I checked for voltage at the coil and only have 7.5 volts at positive side of coil with key on. Bad ground ? Short? I rebuilt the engine and drove it to work twice and it started leaking fuel from gas tank. Replaced tank and sending unit and drove it around the block. Next day it died pulling out of the driveway. Been sitting since then. How can I have low volts at the coil? I'm tired of fooling around with this thing. Any ideas?

 

[James Morse]

If it has ballast resistor then 7.5 would be right where it should be. Just throwing that out there based on a quick Google search. Have no idea if yours has that.

 

[Otto57]

I have no idea about a ballast resistor. I'm wondering about the distributor pickup. About the only thing I haven't replaced

 

[James Morse]

Yeah sounds like you just about built an entire new ignition system.

Check to see if you have ballast resistor it should be right by the coil probably. If it's bad, truck won't start, even if all else good.

I bet you have one because when you say 7.5V that's what it should be if you have ballast resistor.

Other guys know more than me....

 

[Otto57]

Right. Way too much and still won't start

 

[Otto57]

It's alive! Ok, so I replaced the entire ignition system. Turned out to be the distributor pickup that was causing the no spark problem. The starter relay was also bad and was causing it to keep cranking. Thanks everyone for your input and help.

 

[James Morse]

Great to hear you got it running!!

 

[Uncle Gump]

Glad you have it going....

FYI... no ballast resistor with that system.

 

[RobbieD]

Good looking motor. I like the 2.3.

 

[Otto57]

Replaced entire ignition system but it runs great now. What a relief.

 

[James Morse]

Yes I found after I fixed my starting problem, for a while I was every time thinking "will it start"... but that goes away after awhile. But I think once you've had it happen, it makes you appreciate having a dependable starting vehicle. Too bad you probably replaced some parts you might not have needed to, but, now you're an expert on it.

 

[oldgeek]

It's just as well that all the ignition parts were replaced. I learned from the show Car Talk years ago, that when working on old vehicles, if you replace one part, all the other parts get jealous and start acting up.