I carry a 6-ton hydro bottle jack in my truck at all times. The stock factory jack is still on the truck, but if I have to change a tire by the roadside I'd much rather use a decent jack. The one thing with bottle jacks is that they can tip on uneven surfaces, but that isn't really a big problem for me since I typically have an assortment of wood blocks in the truck and a shovel. I can level an area for the jack and block the other tires.
At home, I still use the bottle jack. I'm looking into getting a 20 ton air over hydro. Someday I'll get a regular floor service jack, but I'm waiting until the day when I can work on a concrete slab instead of a limestone driveway. When using a bottle jack around here in the fall, winter (when the ground isn't frozen) and spring, you have to put a block of 2x10 under it to keep it from dissappearing into the ground. Don't want to have to dig a floor jack out from under my truck, lol.
I'm still not sure I want to buy one of the HF floor service jacks, they looked a little on the cheap side to me. But I'm not exactly the average user of a jack - I work on my trucks, my dad's trucks, and a couple pieces of equipment.
I jack the front of a TTB or TIB out by the radius arm bolt. You don't want to jack on the steering knuckle/ball joint - it stresses the joint too much and it wasn't designed for that. Likewise I wouldn't jack on the shock mount. Using a bottle jack, I will place a jackstand inboard of the jack (that's towards the center of the truck) but keep it as close to the jack as I can. For most work that is adequate. If I'm going to be doing something like pulling a transmission, I prefer the wheels on the ground or the jackstands as far apart as possible for stability. It's also best to only lift one side of a vehicle at a time - they can get unstable on four jackstands.
For the A-arm and T-bar front suspensions, I just try to pick the most appropriate looking spot to stick a jack. I've found that my Ranger came with tabs to stick the stock jack and they work great for a bottle jack, but not all other Rangers had those sort of tabs. When I have to work on a newer suspension style like that I wish I had a two post lift so I could do it the right way.
For jacking up the rear, Ford says to never jack it up using the differential because it can stress things that shouldn't be stressed. I always jack it up on the axle tube near the leaf springs (I usually try to get the jack between the U-bolts on the tube.)
If I'm trying to jack up the frame and let the suspension droop on the rear, I jack it up by the tow hitch.
And always ALWAYS use jackstands. And block the wheels that are not being lifted off the ground. I have a pair of 6 ton stands and three 3-ton stands (I had four until one got smashed). Sometimes that isn't enough. Or they are not tall enough to do it the way I'd like to. But don't set them on a pile of cinderblocks or the like either, that's dangerous.