Ive been posting alot...

[The_Dealer]

but i have another problem. and i cant figure out whats going on...this is copied and pasted from another forum. oil is good and decently clean, oil pressure is good, shifts fine.

hey guys i have a 85 b2 2.8L a4ld bw1350, and ive been trying to chase down these wierd noises. u suspected my flexplate was cracked so i replaced it and i found that one of the t/c studs stripped and the nut fell off and the t/c wallered out the flexplate. so i fixed it, i used a 4.0 t/c from advance out of a 92 4.0 ranger. i wanted the lower stall. and i love it. noises somewhat solved. i was getting a ticking/rattleing sound at idle and all speeds. i also adjusted my valves, and for the first 20 minutes she was so quiet. then i started to notice that a rattle/knocking sound at idle, which gets worse when i put it in gear, but goes away with engine speed, and im getting a little lifter tick back.

ok so i also had starter grinding on start up which stopped when i changed the flexplate and started again a couple days later. i loosened up the starter and slid it towards the flexplate, tightened it and no more grinding, also the block plate is cut up and its only the part where the starter goes, i always though it was supposed to go all the way across the bottom of the bellhousing. im thinking that its the wrong block plate. where can i get a new one? also what could be making the rattle/knock sounds? it sounds like a friggen diesel, and its comming from the bellhousing.

maybe my valves come back out of adjustment? i say that because i believe the ticking i had before was valve noise resonating. please help guys. i checked and made sure all the bolts were tight from where i changed the flexplate and t/c and everything is good to go, fluid is good. engine oil is good

 

[RangerSVT]

Check timing...
SVT

 

[bobbywalter]

you have a bad combo of parts. i am guessing your fp is fawked again too.


possibly have bad lifters and incorrectly adjusted the valves.

you can buy a shim for your starter, use studs and the shim as a cheap test on the starter situation. on 4.o swaps i have to play around sometimes to get the right setup for the starter...auto/manual starter for whatever spacer/plate combination is being used.

 

[The_Dealer]

everything was quiet for a little while. my stepdad helped me with it before i headed back home for thanskgiving. he is the shop foreman for redbull racing. so he knew what he was doing. we checked everything. but never let it run and check it again(some people do that). i checked timing before i left about 600 miles ago, it was 11*, left it there.

a shim wont help me out, i meant that i moved the starter to the left as far as it would go and its quiet, but moves back to the right after a few cranks. i think i have the wrong block plate

i did notice a good bit of sludge when we did the valves maybe thats part of the noise?

 

[RangerSVT]

Your starter is moving, and its not supposed to. As far as the sludge goes, how many miles do you go between oil changes?? How long do you run your engine between commutes (home and work/school)?? What type and weght of oil do you use?? Any oil leaks, like the valve covers or rear main seal, or oil pan??
SVT

 

[The_Dealer]

Your starter is moving, and its not supposed to. As far as the sludge goes, how many miles do you go between oil changes?? How long do you run your engine between commutes (home and work/school)?? What type and weght of oil do you use?? Any oil leaks, like the valve covers or rear main seal, or oil pan??
SVT

5w30 mobil 5000, every 3500 miles, with gunk oil flush. 15 miles each way daily commute, small IM oil leak, small oil pan leak, and oil pressure sender leak, fix front and rear main, and valve cover leak

what can i do about the starter moving?it f'd up my old flexplate gears in an abnormal wear pattern

also checked the flexplate when i had the starter off and everything looked ok. i dunno if its engine noise or what, but when i had my vacuum hose to my ear it was the loudest around the flywheel area by the starter. but kinda on the passenger side of bellhousing as well. but the ticking from my valves sounded that way too, now a little tick is present but the kinda knock/rattleing sound is on my nerves. maybe its time for a complete gasket set and clean up the valvetrain. i wanna do a 5.0 swap but i need to get a new dd first

 

[RangerSVT]

You need to get another starter plate...My G/F's dad has a 2002 Jeep wrangler 4.0L with about 115K on the clock and developed a rod knock, pulled the motor and found out the entire engine was oil sludged and starting eating the crank connecting rod bearings...He used nothing but Mobil one oil and changed every 3K religously...I will never buy or use mobil one or suggest others use it, period. I have another buddy (railman) that uses mobil one in his ranger and he has no sludge, and is under about the same conditions...I use Castrol in all my vehicles...
SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

BTW the 5.0L swap can be done in about a weekend to a 3 day weekend, get all your research done first, it makes the swap go faster and easier
SVT

 

[The_Dealer]

BTW the 5.0L swap can be done in about a weekend to a 3 day weekend, get all your research done first, it makes the swap go faster and easier
SVT

done it, already durasparked so its plug and play...just gotta get some funds up. having my house remodeled so it takes up alot of my play money. im thinking of running some amsoil engine flush through it, change to motorcraft oil or royal purp, and check my valves again and see what happens, if it gets better i might do a few treatments of auto rx

i wouldnt think it would be transmission noise...anyways where can i get the block plate? on my old jeep with a 350 the block plate sandwhiched between the trans and block(was a full deal, unlike when it had the 4.0 it attached to the bottom 2 dowel pins), the t/c and trans would have to be slid back, is the a4ld one the same way? that prolly would be some of the problem right there. would the dealer bust my balls on the block plate? theres not really any good places around here to pick up a used one of decent quality

 

[The_Dealer]

btw here are some pics when we adjusted the valves

im not sure how he did them(order) i was under there turning the crank, but we ran through them 2 or 3 times, but it gradually got louder during my 325 mile trip home

anyone know the order on adjusting them? something about 1tdc do 5 or somethin? i need the whole sequence so i can do it myself and make sure everything is ok. also rubber valve cover gasket reusable with some rtv?

 

[bobbywalter]

the starter issue may be a manual trans v/auto trans application.


depending on parts, the auto trans starter on a manual and vice versa is sometimes the case. but the engine plate being wrong can really fawk ya. the shim can actually fix the alignment issue as well, along with studs/sleeves.

theres issues with flexplate availability and interchange between 4.0/2.8-9's and the spacers etc.


some shit i just need to have in my hands to make go....

 

[The_Dealer]

what do u mean by studs and sleeves? where can i get the shims and how do i know the thickness?

 

[The_Dealer]

think i found the prob. we adjusted the valves to .0008 intake .0018 exaust

hope we didnt mess anything up. so i found the valve sequence listed for intake

5-1
3-4
6-2
1-5
4-3

same for exhaust? what if i adjust them at the wrong position? i cant seem to find a write up and my stepdad is 300 miles away

 

[bobbywalter]

cold or hot set? i usually cold set hydros.


studs...instead of the starter bolts


sometimes the starter bolt holes are too big, and a spacer of tube or nylon in the bolt holes combined with the studs keeps things in place.

its shit i have always dealt with...and assume others do too.


hell one of the members on another forum i helped who is some years my senior and very familiar with fords along with the parts store, and i mean experienced parts store guys at that didnt even know there was such a thing a ford starter shims...and they had the damn things on the shelf!


sometimes i cut and stack oem engine plate gaskets as well. this is shit 4.0 swaps usually end up experiencing, just deal with it as it comes

 

[The_Dealer]

ill try the stud and nylon washers thing, i saw a bunch of nylons at lowes the other day. i set them cold, as i found the directions for. i did the intake way too tight and exhaust too loose. so im gonna grab some feeler guages today and see what i can do