lil_Blue_Ford
Cut & Weld
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Supporting Member
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- Joined
- Aug 6, 2007
- Messages
- 10,715
- City
- Butler
- State - Country
- PA - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Engine
- 5.0
- Transmission
- Automatic
- Total Drop
- 4”
I will add to that, if you check with a digital multimeter across the battery terminals and you hold it there for a minute, it should remain pretty constant. If it slowly ticks down (12.80, 12.79, 12.78, etc) then you either have a parasitic draw or the battery has an internal short. Disconnect the battery terminals and re-test at that point. If the battery stays stable, there’s a parasitic draw. If it still ticks down, the battery is toast.Voltage gauge's draw no amps at all, so if you see any voltage drop there is a bad connection
i.e. new battery is say 12.9volts, key off
Every place you test should be 12.9v
You see 12.6v it means there is a problem, unless you turned on the key![]()
Couple other notes…
I’ve seen battery cables go bad inside the insulation. I chased an electrical problem for quite awhile on my Choptop once until I finally noticed that the main ground off the battery made a crunchy sound when flexed. I skinned some insulation off and found it was badly corroded inside.
No-Alox (found in places like Home Depot electrical section) is used to prevent corrosion on aluminum wires when making up connections. I believe it is electrically conductive but I would have to check. I know hooking up aluminum wire to a breaker panel you slobber it all over the exposed end of the wire before making the connection. Be careful with it though, it’s like using anti-seize, it will get everywhere.