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Its Alive!


Twister

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
1,921
City
Omaha, Ne
Vehicle Year
1985 1987
Transmission
Manual
Ok so i just got done with replacing the heads on my 87 B2. It started on the first try :yahoo:. But i got a few questions, it seems to have developed a tick, is this because i didnt reset the valve lash? Also i was running it with the radiator cap off, for about 8 min, then i shut it off, when i shut it off it shot fluid out of the radiator, it was only about a cup but is this normal?
 
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Well i timed it with the spout connector removed, when i got it to 10 BTDC, it did not seem to idle well. So i shut it off, tightened down the dizzy and restarted it and it sounds worse now. I plug the spout connector back in and it cause the truck to die :dunno:
 
Yah, cap the radiator. May do to pay attention to temp gauge too.
 
Well i timed it with the spout connector removed, when i got it to 10 BTDC, it did not seem to idle well. So i shut it off, tightened down the dizzy and restarted it and it sounds worse now. I plug the spout connector back in and it cause the truck to die :dunno:

Go back and make sure it's really 10 degrees. It sounds like the spout is pulling the timing too far back.

Also make sure EVERYTHING is connected. I'm glad you've got it going!
 
Go back and make sure it's really 10 degrees. It sounds like the spout is pulling the timing too far back.

Also make sure EVERYTHING is connected. I'm glad you've got it going!

Thanks, it got dark before i could mess with it any farther. Just making sure, the spout connector is the little electrical connector with a black plastic piece plugged into it on the passenger side right?

Also, could running it with it burning coolant cause water to collect in the exhaust, i had some water come out the tailpipe?
 
That is the connector. It sounds like maybe you are setting it 10 ATDC? Not quite sure. All I know is that it sounds like once the computer is running the timing, it's pulling it back too far.

Another thing worth mentioning is the distributor install. Are you sure you had it pointed to #1 when you installed? Theres a chance that maybe it's off a tooth or two.

If I were you, I would go outside and confirm that it's 10-12 degrees BTDC with the spout unplugged. If it is, then I might move my plug wires clock wise or counter clockwise. I'm actually one tooth off myself. I just rotated everything clockwise and it worked like a charm.

Oh and as far as the water goes, It's probably just condensation. Did you change the oil yet? I would run some cheapo oil in it for a few miles and change it again and again...
 
That is the connector. It sounds like maybe you are setting it 10 ATDC? Not quite sure. All I know is that it sounds like once the computer is running the timing, it's pulling it back too far.

Another thing worth mentioning is the distributor install. Are you sure you had it pointed to #1 when you installed? Theres a chance that maybe it's off a tooth or two.

If I were you, I would go outside and confirm that it's 10-12 degrees BTDC with the spout unplugged. If it is, then I might move my plug wires clock wise or counter clockwise. I'm actually one tooth off myself. I just rotated everything clockwise and it worked like a charm.

Oh and as far as the water goes, It's probably just condensation. Did you change the oil yet? I would run some cheapo oil in it for a few miles and change it again and again...

Well i retimed it to what i believe is 10 DTDC, but it is kind of hard to see the little mark even after i marked it with some white paint. It seemed to idle a lot better, so i plugged back in the spout and tightened down the dizzy. So i tried to test drive it, but if i give it any gas it will shut off. :dunno:
 
Well i messed with it a bit today, i set the plug wires back 1 post and then forward 1 post and it would not start with them that way. So i put them back to normal and the mark i put on the crank pully is unable to be seen :dunno:
 
Are you sure you have the damper pully marked correct get under the front of the truck with a wrench and a flashlight turn the crank until you see the marks clearly and use a yellow or white crayon to mark 10 degrees. I believe you can get a good permanent marker like the one used at the bone yard at any part store. It has to be at 10 DBTDC and you must confirm it after you lock down the dizzy. Then you can troubleshoot it further if necessary. You can clean and see the timing marks alot better from under the truck in order to mark it correct.
 
Are you sure you have the damper pully marked correct get under the front of the truck with a wrench and a flashlight turn the crank until you see the marks clearly and use a yellow or white crayon to mark 10 degrees. I believe you can get a good permanent marker like the one used at the bone yard at any part store. It has to be at 10 DBTDC and you must confirm it after you lock down the dizzy. Then you can troubleshoot it further if necessary. You can clean and see the timing marks alot better from under the truck in order to mark it correct.

That's what i did, i got under there and they were actually clearer than the ones on my 85, at first i marked it with a white grease pen which worked on my other truck but not this one, so i ended up cutting up a plain white address label but it doesn't appear to show up anywhere near the timing pointer when it is running.

So i figured i would try to set the wires forward or back, but it would not start either way.
 
when it is running try and change the clamp on different plug wires and see if you see the mark also put it on the coil wire and see if you get a steady flash. Wouldnt that be a hoot if the #1 plug wire was not getting spark keeping you from setting the timing correct. Maybe get a spark tester and check the coil wire and all the plug wires for good spark 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch the more the better. Ideally you should get 3/4 of an inch with a TFI type coil.
 
when it is running try and change the clamp on different plug wires and see if you see the mark also put it on the coil wire and see if you get a steady flash. Wouldnt that be a hoot if the #1 plug wire was not getting spark keeping you from setting the timing correct. Maybe get a spark tester and check the coil wire and all the plug wires for good spark 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch the more the better. Ideally you should get 3/4 of an inch with a TFI type coil.

Alright ill try that.
 
Did you do the valve timing correct. If not ignition timing will not help a bit
The haynes owner manual actually is wrong and says to tighten them too tight.
I went through this when i rebuilt my engine... and my brothers engine
 
when it is running try and change the clamp on different plug wires and see if you see the mark also put it on the coil wire and see if you get a steady flash. Wouldnt that be a hoot if the #1 plug wire was not getting spark keeping you from setting the timing correct. Maybe get a spark tester and check the coil wire and all the plug wires for good spark 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch the more the better. Ideally you should get 3/4 of an inch with a TFI type coil.

Well you were right, i put the clamp on plug wire #3 and i could see the timing mark. So do i need to re-install the dizzy?
 

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