IT RAN THEN NO CRANK

[gaz]

I have been troubleshooting the rebuilt 2.9L with approximately 6kmi recently swapped into my 87 Ford Ranger from my BroncoII. It started as soon as the engine was swapped but only with starter fluid and had no pressure on the fuel rail.

1-after building a stand alone power circuit to pressurize the fuel system it ran but still needed starter fluid to start. After it warmed up, it would start without starter fluid.

AlanD suggested that the engine coolant sensor (ECT) may be the cause of the need for starter fluid to start until it was warmed up. I installed a new one but didn't test it.

Then next thing it needed was a clutch master cylinder bleed. I had a buddy come over and help but afterwards it would not crank.

My clutch position sensor was broken and not in the correct position, so I closed the circuit with a jumper to get it to start.

After jumping the clutch sensor the engine started without starter fluid for the first time since the swap, on the second twist of the key; 1st twist was just a start solenoid click. I turned off the engine with the key to prepare to flush the cooling system but afterwards it wouldn't crank.

Two days later, it still refuses to crank.

*[mention of Ignition Module deleted for clarification of issue]

Any ideas why it won't crank?

 

[Shran]

Did your clutch sensor jumper come unplugged or something....?

Ignition module failure won't cause it to not crank over. Bad starter, ignition switch, starter solenoid, battery cables...? Low/dead battery? Engine hydro locked with gas or coolant?

 

[RonD]

"No crank"??

Does this mean the starter motor is NOT working, or does it mean starter IS working but engine won't start with starting fluid added so no spark?
Because you mention ignition module, which is not related to "cranking"/starter motor

 

[gaz]

Shran,

The clutch position sensor jumper is securely installed.

-new battery cables/connectors
-new starter solenoid
-new starter

The battery however is old and on the weak side; when fully charged it only measures 12.65v; it does not hold a charge very well. I am considering replacing it, I had hoped that with the engine/alternator running it would maintain a decent charge.

RonD,

The new starter is not working/cranking.

With the new starter, the engine cranked and started once, without starter fluid (because of the replacement ECT sensor), then the new starter cranked no more. The new starter is not spooling, I do hear the starter solenoid switch though but no click, just a pop.

I am going to remove the new starter and bench test it again to make sure that it is working consistently.

My buddy suggested that the starter gear may have become stuck on the flywheel and may need to be shimmed; this seems odd as it has never needed to be shimed.

I should not have mentioned the ignition module.

 

[RonD]

Yes, the new starter may be the issue

New just means "NEVER EVER tested" now-a-days, not "it was tested and passed" like it used to mean

Could be battery cable and starter cable connections on the larger posts of starter relay, easy enough to clean BOTH and re-try starting

 

[gaz]

The battery cable was shorting out to the block. I need it bent just right, just like the old cable ..) oops.

Thank you all the guidance and concern!