It is here; let us begin

[97ranger22bronco]

The tow truck dropped the Ranger off earlier today. Getting it in the garage was...interesting with four absolute flats lol

I made a list of items to get done to bring it back to life. Would love some feedback on any items that are missing and/or that are not needed.

• Change oil/filter
• Flush coolant in radiator
• Flush heater core
• Flush brake system
• Change transmission fluid
• Change transmission filter
• Changer power steering fluid
• Change differential fluid
• Change transmission pan for one with drain plug (if not there)
• Replace radiator hoses
• Replace fuel hoses
• Replace water pump and gasket
• Replace oil pan gasket
• Replace spark plugs and wires
• Replace ignition coil
• Check/replace alternator
• Check/replace distributor
• Change air filter
• New battery
• Replace battery cables
• Change battery tray
• Clean fuel tank
• Replace fuel filler elbow
• Change belts
• Change thermostat
• Replace fuel filter
• Replace fuel pump
• Check inner and outer tie rod ends
• Check brakes
• Check leaf springs

 

[pjtoledo]

looks like a great project vehicle. I'm in the rust belt, that looks pristine compared to what's up here.

 

[Terrys87]

You have a great list started. I did everything you did on my project. Since you asked what else, I would do the O2 sensor, never seen an O2 sensor that was not original.

I change Throttle Position Sensors. It 30 years old with millions of cycles. Usually you can just clean your Water Temp sensor. It may have hard water build up. Clean your Idle Air Control Valve and Throttle Body.

MAP/MAF sensors I replace.

Vacuum lines, I just buy a few feet from my local part store and replace it.

Clean all your ground connections. You should have a Frame, Body, and Engine grounds. You will need to find where they are at. Also there is a ground wire coming off of the computer clean its body connection.

My 88 has a ground wire on the wiper motor.

You might want to look into How To Perform The Big 3 Upgrade - Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog

 

[19Walt93]

Look everything over, you'll probably see other things that need attention..
I'd add replace brake hoses to your list.
I second the opinion about your truck being a good starting point, especially because it isn't rusty. Up here we pay an awful price for road salt and repairing rust makes repainting the baked finish on your roof look cheap.

 

[JoshT]

Congrats on the acquisition and welcome to the site. You've come to the right place. Two things I think right off the bat.

First...
I don't see tires on your list.

Second...
I'd try to get it running before I did anything else. It may be that you are throwing money at things it doesn't need, or that you have bigger problems that need to be addressed first.

It would suck to dump in new oil, coolant, etc, only to find that your engine is toast and needs to be replaced. Once proven to run then, start the maintenance. As for maintenance to do I'd just start with the oil and coolant change, and rad hoses if they are deteriorated. New accessory belt, air filter, and maybe fuel pump.

Aside from basic maintenance I wouldn't touch anything else yet. If the plug wires don't show obvious signs of damage, run them. Spark plugs if it has the mileage or misfires. Leave the pumps alone unless they are bad. Same for a lot of other things in that list. The truck will you when it needs anything beyond basic maintenance. .

That's my 2¢ anyway. Good luck with it.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

Thanks for all of the feedback! QQ: when I do a coolant flush, based on the videos that I watched it typically involves running the engine, which we're not there yet.

Would flushing out the rad and the heater core suffice up through getting it running?

 

[19Walt93]

Thanks for all of the feedback! QQ: when I do a coolant flush, based on the videos that I watched it typically involves running the engine, which we're not there yet.

Would flushing out the rad and the heater core suffice up through getting it running?

I've never flushed a cooling system with the engine running. Drain the radiator, pull the block drains and remove both heater hoses. Flush water through the heater core backward then forward- the water flows from the engine, through the core, and back to the water pump, in case you didn't know. Then flush the block and radiator with water, tighten the radiator drain, install the block drain plugs and heater hoses, then refill with either premixed coolant or concentrated coolant and distilled water. If it's real nasty I might flush it again in a few months or a year but I'd never use acidic cleaners.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

Thanks for the reply! Did not realize it had the engine drain blocks.. Where would it be located?

On a side note, what coolant should I use? I read the owner's manual and it said 7.2 qts but not which one to use.

 

[Curious Hound]

Take your time going through the tasks on your list. Don't rush. Spend time looking at everything while you're working in any particular area. Have a pencil ready to add things to your list as you work on it and get familiar with the truck.

 

[JoshT]

Thanks for all of the feedback! QQ: when I do a coolant flush, based on the videos that I watched it typically involves running the engine, which we're not there yet.

Would flushing out the rad and the heater core suffice up through getting it running?

Going back to get it running first. Until it's running and prove, I'd run straight water. What ever you put in might be getting dumped back out soon. Once it has a few miles of relaible driving, then drain and add coolant.

Gotta be honest, in my last 20 years of vehicle ownership, and dad's messing with cars since the 70s, we've never used distilled water. Always used tap water with the concentrated coolant and never had a problem that it caused. That said everyone's tap water is different.

EDIT: I should clarify that is municipal tap water. If I were filling at my home I'd use distilled or 50/50 premix, I'm on well water and it is hard. In case you aren't familiar with the term "hard water", that means that it has a lot of minerals dissolved in it.

 

[Terrys87]

I have always used tap water myself. I flush my coolant every 2-3 years never any problem. I use the Preston Flush kit to get the system somewhat clean for a first start. I do not use Antifreeze until I know my system is clean and no leaks. Too expensive to find out the hard way that you have a bad cooling system.

If you don't replace your radiator, I would suggest finding a radiator shop to have them to check for leaks and flush the radiator out. There is lots of gunk and rust build up in them.

 

[19Walt93]

Thanks for the reply! Did not realize it had the engine drain blocks.. Where would it be located?

On a side note, what coolant should I use? I read the owner's manual and it said 7.2 qts but not which one to use.

Asuming it's a V6, there will be a drain plug on each side located below the freeze plugs with an allenhead , hex head, or a square. A 93 would use the green ethylene glycol coolant.
Distilled water is cheap- about $1.25 a gallon at Walmart here- and tap water usually has stuff in it that you don't want. My well water is high in minerals, especially magnesium so I installed a softener that leaves traces of salt in the water. Magnesium and salt are not good for the engine. City water has chlorine and who knows what else. I gallon of coolant and one $1.25 gallon of ditilled water will do it for you. I'll even send you $1.25 if you want.

 

[Kira]

Do you have any air compressor at all? Try pumping air into those tires just to ease moving the thing around.
Re coolant: Try unscrewing the radiator's drain cock and see what comes out. It's April. You needn't fear freezing for months and months.
As others have said, get it turning over first before you go to new coolant. If nothing else, drop in dishwasher detergent (either liquid or sachet') to see if things change at all.
I do like the idea of removing and testing the radiator as you don't know if local ya-hoos have shot at it. Also, radiators do corrode.
I'm pretty sure G-05 is OK in that Ranger; it's what's in mine (an '05).

Then think about a new water pump. Perhaps replacing the accessory belt's idler and tensioner.

Also drain the 14 year old oil. It might be roofing tar by now.
Use old oil drained from family members' vehicles or cheap conventional during these early stages. Remove the old oil filter as it may be full of black jelly.
You don't want to force black jelly into your lube system. Install a basic filter for now.

You want to see if fuel is delivered to the injectors at all before just installing a new fuel pump. They are expensive.
Use a spray bottle to shoot gas into the engine if you have to to see if things revolve.

How much did you pay? How many miles are on it?

Get battery voltage to it and see if the ventilation blower, turn signals, headlights, work. Don't turn the engine until you know the oil isn't solid.

Make sure there aren't mouse nests in the air cleaner box. You don't want to suck nesting material into the engine.

....and please, vacuum the mess off your cowl.

 

[97ranger22bronco]

weekend update:

- oil drained and changed
- coolant flushed and replaced by water until everything is squared away
- spark plugs changed
- spark plug wires on order; will be here today
- air filter taken out; new air filter on deck
- interior taken out (the truck sat in a field for 14+ years with a busted rear window so...)
- power steering fluid replaced (wasn't much in there)

 

[Kira]

Have you tried inflating the tires?
>14 years of water incursion....Look before you spend.

See what I suggested above about getting battery voltage to it and seeing what works and what doesn't.

Best of luck. I have rellies in Houston and Dallas. If I go to visit, I'll PM you.