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is this mostly BS??


i think this guy rode the short bus, he has some valid points but he doesnt make any sense with what he says overall
 
i figured, i just wanted to make shure. that whole thing about the air box ducts made me wonder if it would make the comp act up and give codes for bad sensors.. i alreay kno lower gears make all the diffrence lol.
 
OMG.

There is exactly one correct statement there. Gears help.

The rest is crack-induced. Even the tire pressure -- you might get better mileage that way, but you're going to get monkey-raped by the cost of replacing the tires you wear out by riding only on the centers. Not to mention, that REDUCES traction, and collisions aren't exactly cheap or pain-free.

Yet another example of someone who can't make a measurement to save his life. 33 MPG on the highway? Wanna bet that's measured by a single fill-up that shut off early?
 
what a moron! every once in a while a truck like that rolls into the shop and all i can do is shake my head and give him a high enough estimate that hopefully they go somewhere that REALLY needs the business of some one who knows just enough about their truck to be dangerous,and want to argue with you over how to work on the car.
mileage threads are overrun with idoits who think air pressure should be at the max rating instead of adjusted to reflect the weight on that particular axle(though i have noticed my truck feels a little firmer in back when the rear pressure is a little higher than optimum.
 
If you have truck tires you can inflate them to the maximum. They have wedges in the edges and load plies that support the tread and are meant to present a flat cross section on the ground regardless of inflation. This is needed because the load can vary so much. I've always inflated my LT tires to maximum and they wear evenly. P-metrics, I inflate them to recommended. You can find a tire inflation chart (they come in the owner's guide for 3/4+ trucks) and find the load rating at a given psi for a smoother ride if you wanted.

If you have put a different size set of P-metrics on your truck your inflation sticker is no longer valid. You need less pressure in the tire when it's larger than the one that come on it--more square inches of contact with the ground needs less psi to hold up the same weight.
 
i did notice that with 33's its hard to get the LT's to sit flat with more than 25 or so psi(and not much weight on them).
 
If you have put a different size set of P-metrics on your truck your inflation sticker is no longer valid. You need less pressure in the tire when it's larger than the one that come on it--more square inches of contact with the ground needs less psi to hold up the same weight.

That really seems obvious, but you would be amazed how many tire "professionals" I've talked to that say I'm out of my mind when I say the total contact patch for the vehicle is (approximating away tread thickness) the normal loaded weight divided by the tire pressure. It seems to be canonnical wisdom that bigger tires have a bigger contact patch. Well, sure if you drop the tire pressure accordingly. Not (much) at the same pressure.

The answer to "what pressure should I air these tires up to" is always the door post pressure, regardless of tire size. Yeah, right.
 
"Synthetic motor oil

This one surprised me as the engine really likes synthetic oil - it quieted down big time and added a couple hundred more rpm at the low end!"


WTF?
 
I run 30lbs front and rear in my Ranger, the ride is pretty good IMO, exp for a 22 year old truck with mud tires.

I run 35 in my F-150 which is what the label said to run for the stock 235/70-16's that came on it stock, I have 255/70-16's on it now. I have about 20k on these tires and they look good with even wear for another year at least and they are not high dollar tires. I did air them up to the max once (44 psi) and it rode like a lumber wagan, if it extends the life of the tires it would have to decrease the life of the truck by shaking it apart.:fie:

I have heard of sythetic oil quieting an engine but I have no idea where he is getting the crap about it raising the rpm at the low end. It seems he needs to work on his car terms, alot of them just seem thrown together.
 
WHAT??
Did he just say his mpg went from 22 to 30 without a cat and a K&N filter?
I can call BS on that. That is the set-up I have and I did not see any improvement in my mpg at all.
 
is some of, if not all of this :bsflag:

Yes, yes it is mostly BS.

Sure you can run your tires at max sidewall pressures, but don't complain when you rattle your teeth out going over bumps.

About the only thing he has right is the gear change. Although I find it hard to believe that a 4 cyl Ranger was factory equipped with 3.08 gears.
 
Sounds a lot like the guy who was experimenting with acetone in the gas tank, and said that warm air increases power.
 
Yes, yes it is mostly BS.

Sure you can run your tires at max sidewall pressures, but don't complain when you rattle your teeth out going over bumps.

About the only thing he has right is the gear change. Although I find it hard to believe that a 4 cyl Ranger was factory equipped with 3.08 gears.

my cab donor was a 87 2.0 liter ranger s with a carb and 3.08 gears, it must have been dead but thats what the door sticker says and I can give the vin and axle code to prove it.
 

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