Is it bad for the clutch when...

[Musick17]

It's engaging extremely close to the floor?

my clutch has to be depressed all the way to the floor for me to put it into gear and begins to engage when I release it 1"-1.5" off the floor. I just got it back from having the slave and master cylinder replaced and before that it would engage right about halfway through the stroke.

Is this something I can just have adjusted? could it be the result of improper installation of parts or insufficient bleeding of the system?


BTW, if your ever broke down in central Illinois, avoid Sharon's automotive repair. It's a napa service center. I had them recommended and now have had my truck in there 5 times for the same issue. They just cant get it right.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Something isn't right. I would suspect improper bleeding.

Richard

 

[Mark_88]

It's either that or the master is not bolted to the firewall properly...had one push through due to rust and had the same effect...clutch engaged way too close to the floorboards (what was left of them)...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ Now that you bring that up, I had a master with the same symptoms.... one ear of the bolt flange broke, allowing movement of the master. I've also heard of the fire wall being cracked allowing flexing.

Richard

 

[a31ford]

I agree with all the above.... sometin ain;t right, clutch should START to engage about 1/2 way up, 2 1/2 - 3 inches from the floor.

Greg

 

[EMB1230]

Sorry to hijack, but that means me not having to push my pedal much at all means I have a fairly new clutch?

 

[Andy D]

Sorry to hijack, but that means me not having to push my pedal much at all means I have a fairly new clutch?

NOPE, If the clutch is engaging at the top , it is on its way out. If it doesnt slip as you give more gas . You may have a while yet.

 

[adsm08]

Firewall breakage is not likely on Musick's truck. In 1995 the pedal bracket was redesigned to reinforce the firewall. Firewall cracking became much less of a concern after that.

Sorry to hijack, but that means me not having to push my pedal much at all means I have a fairly new clutch?

If it releases right at the top, you probably have new hydraulics or a worn disc.

 

[a31ford]

That's a good one to know ADSM, +1

Greg

 

[scotts90ranger]

with the hydraulic clutch it's normal for them to disengage about 1" from the rest position with everything working perfectly, if it's engaging lower, press the pedal all the way down then slip your foot off the pedal (after making sure the reservoir is full), this will work air out of the master cylinder, if it's in the slave, good luck...

 

[92NHranger]

I replaced my slave and master and it was fine. If you had air in there i feel it would cause this. The air compresses so the slave doesnt max out when the pedal is at the floor. just have a friend sit in your and seat pump the pedal up and hold and you just open and close the bleeder very fast. if you take the rubber plugs out of your tranny you can see the travel of the slave/fingers. I could be completely wrong on this as our trucks have a 10 year difference but thats my 2 cents. Good luck with it

 

[mobileaudio219]

Sounds like air in the system to me. I've always bleed them like you do brakes, have somebody pump it up and then hold the peddle to the floor, once they're holding the peddle down, crack the bleeder. Keep it full of brake fluid, and repeat the process until it stops bubbling out air.

 

[EMB1230]

Conventional bleeding will NOT get the air out of these M5OD master cylinders, you have to do a combo of bench bleeding and gravity bleeding which means taking the MC out of the vehicle!

 

[Musick17]

Hey guys I got my truck back today and everything seems to be fine after bleeding. My clutch hasnt felt this good since I originally got it replaced over a year ago. Thanks for all of your input on the matter

 

[scotts90ranger]

Conventional bleeding will NOT get the air out of these M5OD master cylinders, you have to do a combo of bench bleeding and gravity bleeding which means taking the MC out of the vehicle!

if the air is just in the master, the method I mentioned above works somewhat reliably, the explorer I had had a bad slave and the master was going too since it'd been ran dry so many times, but every now and then I'd have to dump the clutch (in neutral of course) then it would work like new again for a couple weeks...