Is an unknown maintenance history non running 2.9 worth dealing with compared to an engine swap?


MISWFL

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My new project truck is a 1990 4x4 automatic Ranger with a 2.9 engine. It's either got 78,000 or 178,000 miles. The pedals look closer to 78k. It's not running and I'm out of state until the winter. I'm not keeping the automatic, so it'll be swapped out ASAP. I might temporarily throw in a 2wd 5 speed until I can find a 4wd 5 speed donor or figure out what engine to swap. That depends on what's wrong with the truck right now.

Reading up about the 2.9 it seems like the cylinder head issue is a big problem. I'm sure good used heads or NOS ones aren't easy to find since they stopped making the engine in like 1992. I'm not a big fan of 6 cylinder engines in general. How was the 2.3 four cylinder ( regular and the turbo version ) compared to the 2.9 in durability? The most important thing to me is having a durable engine with a stick shift transmission. 4wd would be nice, but not critical. Decent fuel mileage would be good, if possible.

I'd also be open to a modern engine swap, like an EcoBoost, if I could have a manual transmission, although those engines have a lot of questionable features like cam phasers, which I don't approve of.
 
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There’s a lot of possible reasons for a non-running 2.9 and not all of them revolve around the heads, which by 1990 were an improved design.

The OHV 4.0 is a drop in swap in that vintage and was essentially a bored and stroked 2.9

2.3 was a fairly reliable design but somewhat gutless in hill country.

The A4LD auto gets a bad rap largely because of lack of proper maintenance. It is also able to be greatly improved without removing the transmission. Fluid and filter plus band adjustment should be done every 20-40k and extra cooling is needed if you do a lot of towing/hauling.

Speaking of, another huge contributor to heat production is valve body leaks and valves not working properly. My 92 I did a shift kit (TransGo) with the separator plate bored near max recommended (next time I’ll just go max and be done with it) plus O-ringed end plugs and shift corrector and stuff. Took about a month to work all the air out but I’ve NEVER had an automatic work that nice. I did the work at about 169k.
 
It would be really fun to go thru all the motions of a downgrade of an engine swap like that only to discover the 2.9 didn't run because of a bad fuel pump.

IMO figure out what you have and then see what you think of it.

I wouldn't trade a 6 for 4.
 
I'm sure the non running issue is something simple like a fuel pump or an ignition module. The guy who had it last was a dirt bag & idiot. I'm going to attempt to contact the prior owner before him and see what I can learn about the truck. It actually looks like a very decent truck. I didn't realize the cylinder head issue was resolved by then.

What's the approximate cost to rebuild or replace the transmission valve body? I assume there's a pan you can drop to get access to the valve body and band adjustments. What's the best quality and performing transmission cooler option available? I need one for my Hyundai Tucson as well. Traditional ATF to air cooler or ATF to coolant? I assume the OE radiator has a small transmission cooler in one of the tanks already? It might already have an auxiliary transmission cooler installed as well because it's got a tow hitch.
 
2.9 is a damn good engine if "done right."

Hot tank one if you rebuild. There's likely casting sand in it.

But they're hard to kill unless you have a bad one with a split head. Most of those ones are gone now.

Keep the 2.9.
 
Dude ive bought two non running 2.9s with no real history on them.

Both took some fixing but it was nothing base roots engine related (injectors mainly...not a big job).

Electrical parts are usually your biggest burden on these things.

Check the oil for coolant...but if that checks out i would just get the 2.9 going. They are not bad engines at all as long as you dont overheat them.
 
2.9 is a damn good engine if "done right."

Hot tank one if you rebuild. There's likely casting sand in it.

But they're hard to kill unless you have a bad one with a split head. Most of those ones are gone now.

Keep the 2.9.
Are there any decent exhaust headers still available for the 2.9 in a Ranger? Most of the old school header companies like S&S are out of business. Any decent non emissions mild street cams available? I assume the automatic engines and possibly California emissions engines use a weaker cam? If the 2.9 engine is ok, I'll be replacing the timing chain and water pump as a precaution. Might as well put a better cam in, if something is available.
 
On the subject of 4.0 vs 2.9....


Yes, 4.0 is a bored and stroked 2.9. They have more low end torque, granted.

However, I slapped a megasquirt in mine and it came to life like no other.

Theres better stuff out there now as well like speeduino.

Tuning is a dark and addictive road tho. 🙂
 
Are there any decent exhaust headers still available for the 2.9 in a Ranger? Most of the old school header companies like S&S are out of business. Any decent non emissions mild street cams available? I assume the automatic engines and possibly California emissions engines use a weaker cam? If the 2.9 engine is ok, I'll be replacing the timing chain and water pump as a precaution. Might as well put a better cam in, if something is available.
I have JBA headers for mine. Very good.

Stock cam was ok.

Merkur/Capri intake makes a difference.

Issue with those engines was early days of efi left a lot on the table.

I have a bunch of old threads with the euro performance data and parts lists in them. Also old threads with the spark and fuel maps that are ok from when i was learning how to "tune." With some euro spec parts and a lobotomy, they do quite well.

It's like a gm 4.8 vs 6.0. One lugs, one revs. Same concept with 2.9 vs 4.0.

See if @blue.bomber is around as well. He's another 2.9 megasquirt cult member. 🙂
 
Are there any decent exhaust headers still available for the 2.9 in a Ranger? Most of the old school header companies like S&S are out of business. Any decent non emissions mild street cams available? I assume the automatic engines and possibly California emissions engines use a weaker cam? If the 2.9 engine is ok, I'll be replacing the timing chain and water pump as a precaution. Might as well put a better cam in, if something is available.
I wouldnt even bother with the timing chain.

Ive been around here for 24 years and i dont remember ever seeing a case of a 2.9 with a bad timing chain.
 
On the subject of 4.0 vs 2.9....


Yes, 4.0 is a bored and stroked 2.9. They have more low end torque, granted.

However, I slapped a megasquirt in mine and it came to life like no other.

Theres better stuff out there now as well like speeduino.

Tuning is a dark and addictive road tho. 🙂
On the subject of aftermarket fuel injection like Megasquirt, are the main chips replaceable? If you have multiple different vehicles, can you program each chip for the vehicle and swap the control board and specific vehicle tuned chip? You'd need extra harnesses, but I assume the most expensive part is the control board and the programmable chip.

Can they accommodate lean burn engines like the Honda CVCC?
 
On the subject of aftermarket fuel injection like Megasquirt, are the main chips replaceable? If you have multiple different vehicles, can you program each chip for the vehicle and swap the control board and specific vehicle tuned chip? You'd need extra harnesses, but I assume the most expensive part is the control board and the programmable chip.

Can they accommodate lean burn engines like the Honda CVCC?
You're thinking about it all wrong. This isn't a chip, it's a whole pcm. You can run your Ranger, your lawnmower, or your Aston Martin from the same pcm. The only time I ever dealt with the chipset is when I initially built the computer. Theoretically, you could just run different adapter harnesses on the same box. A lot of work, though. They're not all that expensive.
 
On the subject of aftermarket fuel injection like Megasquirt, are the main chips replaceable? If you have multiple different vehicles, can you program each chip for the vehicle and swap the control board and specific vehicle tuned chip? You'd need extra harnesses, but I assume the most expensive part is the control board and the programmable chip.

Can they accommodate lean burn engines like the Honda CVCC?
Whats your end goal with the truck?

Daily driver...street...performance?
 
Whats your end goal with the truck?

Daily driver...street...performance?
Daily driver. I think there's an ability to run 2 fuel/ignition maps? One for cruising and one for pulling loads, climbing hills, etc.

My primary concern is fuel mileage when not "working" the vehicle and taking advantage of removing things we're not supposed to talk about and better flowing intake and especially exhaust systems.

I'd also like to convert my vehicles with carburetors to fuel injection because of the crappy corn fuel we have now.
 
Daily driver. I think there's an ability to run 2 fuel/ignition maps? One for cruising and one for pulling loads, climbing hills, etc.

My primary concern is fuel mileage when not "working" the vehicle and taking advantage of removing things we're not supposed to talk about and better flowing intake and especially exhaust systems.

I'd also like to convert my vehicles with carburetors to fuel injection because of the crappy corn fuel we have now.
Well. If a vehicle is tuned properly, you always run at optimal efficiency, meaning an absolutely spot-on tune should give you optimal fuel economy and power.

Mine would get 24mpg at highway cruise when I had my tune dialed in.

I averaged around 18mpg because I couldn't keep my foot out of it. 🙂

Do some research on megasquirt and speeduino, they're both fantastic pieces of kit, and work very differently than other products like diablosport/HP/SCT, etc.

I have a weird background with the stuff since I learned standalone units first, then crossed over into factory pcm tuning. They're very different. Standalone is a blank canvas, tuners are a coloring book.
 

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