Installing new gears, question.. Please help!

[Viva*the*Ranger]

Hey folks. So I'm gona try and install my own 5.13's front and rear. I've read many of write up's on it, and it seems like it's pretty easy to screw things up. I've never done it, but I'm very mechanically inclined (CNC mechanic by trade), and either have the tools, or am willing to buy/rent what ever tools are needed IE, monster torque wrench.

My question: If I over torque the crush sleeve, can I buy one separately, or do I have to buy a whole master install kit? Also, the write up's I've read, didn't really go in to detail about setting backlash. They pretty much said "makes sure to set your backlash to this spec". Do any of you have steps, or explanations as to doing this properly? And are the install kits the same, for the D35, and Explorer 8.8? I was told that today, but would like to make sure. And is the TTB D35 install kit, the same as the Jeep D35 rear?

It's a fairly simple concept, and I have a grasp on it, but I really don't want to buy multiple master install kits, due to screwing up, or pay some mechanic $300 per diff, to do it for me. Having the knowledge and doing it myself, would be great for me as well. Any insight on this, would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

-Denny

 

[doorgunner]

Me too.........I've read about 6 articles on making the swap....some of them get confusing....but, if we take it a step at a time...we oughta not have to re-do it more than twice.....LOL

you can buy the crush-sleeve(washer) separately for a couple bucks each.....i think I'll get 3 of em just in case......

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

Me too.........I've read about 6 articles on making the swap....some of them get confusing....but, if we take it a step at a time...we oughta not have to re-do it more than twice.....LOL

you can buy the crush-sleeve(washer) separately for a couple bucks each.....i think I'll get 3 of em just in case......

Well stated doorgunner. Do you have a link for the crush sleeve, or should it be a pretty common item?

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

Bump..

 

[88_Eddie]

i'm researching this as well. here's what i can surmise:

a) installing the axle shafts, spiders gears, clutches, carrier, etc.....isn't going to be that big of a deal.

b) i'm gonna have to take my ring gear to a shop to get it pressed onto the carrier

c) i can install the 2 bearings on the carrier, as well as the bearing that fits inside the diff housing

d) getting the correct backlash is gonna be the hardest part. it cant be too far as to chip the teeth, but it cant be so close that it wont turn the pinion. here's to hoping that narrow window of perfection will be about the size of a garage door


as far as tools, i have a decently strong electric impact gun, various 1/2" sockets, pliers, and a torque wrench....anything else i need will have to be bought/borrowed while i'm doin it. i lucked out and found a d35 with 3.73's already in it, i only have to install them in my 8.8.....shouldnt be too hard, right? lol good luck

 

[feellnfroggy]

crush sleeve can be gotten at auto parts store, but I just reused mine since it was similar gears to before, You will need a new one. the whole process is straightforward and not as complicated as you might thing, but MEASURE MEASURE MEASURE MEASURE, this is the complicated part. Measure twice cut once, its a bitch to keep installing, uninstalling, reinstalling pinion bearings because you have the wrong spacer one there.

 

[Ranger Sport Honduras]

a quick tip my cousin used to install my gears was: theres always a point that when u turn the pinion in the ring (already installed on the carrier of course) that will get a bit stiffer than the rest of the turn. so make sure its not too tight when u turn it at that point. basically he used that as a reference to set my gears.
taking note on how the rings are set before u take them apart is good too. try to measure and even draw any pattern so u have something to compare and take as reference.

i hope u can get the point i tried to explain LOL

 

[88_Eddie]

i like to measure once, cut a little long, measure again, cut once more, test fit, sand it little, vacuum up the mess, drink a beer

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

b) i'm gonna have to take my ring gear to a shop to get it pressed onto the carrier

c) i can install the 2 bearings on the carrier, as well as the bearing that fits inside the diff housing

d) getting the correct backlash is gonna be the hardest part.

Save yourself the money, and don't pay a machine shop to press the ring gear. evenly apply pressure on the ring gear, you can get it on enough, so you can start threading the bolts in. From there tighten them evenly, like you would a wheel (star pattern) SLOWLY, and it will sink the ring gear nice and flush. Then torque to spec.

You are right on the spot, when it comes to the back lash. From there it seems pretty simple.

Once I'm done, I'm going to do a write up on it, and include all details+pics

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

i like to measure once, cut a little long, measure again, cut once more, test fit, sand it little, vacuum up the mess, drink a beer

I'm the same way... You can never be too safe!

a quick tip my cousin used to install my gears was: theres always a point that when u turn the pinion in the ring (already installed on the carrier of course) that will get a bit stiffer than the rest of the turn. so make sure its not too tight when u turn it at that point. basically he used that as a reference to set my gears.
taking note on how the rings are set before u take them apart is good too. try to measure and even draw any pattern so u have something to compare and take as reference.

i hope u can get the point i tried to explain LOL

Thanks bud. I see what you're saying, and really appreciate. Much appreciated RSH!

crush sleeve can be gotten at auto parts store, but I just reused mine since it was similar gears to before, You will need a new one. the whole process is straightforward and not as complicated as you might thing, but MEASURE MEASURE MEASURE MEASURE, this is the complicated part. Measure twice cut once, its a bitch to keep installing, uninstalling, reinstalling pinion bearings because you have the wrong spacer one there.

Thanks for the reassurance/input Froggy. I have all the time in the world to get it right (it's the project truck) not the DD, so if it takes me five hours per diff, it won't bother me. I'm more worried about the beer consumption catching up to me by that point. Ha ha

 

[88_Eddie]

Save yourself the money, and don't pay a machine shop to press the ring gear. evenly apply pressure on the ring gear, you can get it on enough, so you can start threading the bolts in. From there tighten them evenly, like you would a wheel (star pattern) SLOWLY, and it will sink the ring gear nice and flush. Then torque to spec.

yeah, i was gonna try, i just assumed i wouldnt be able to do it and i'd have to take it to a shop.....SWEET....thanks for the input

so what about removing the old ring gear? i bought a ranger 8.8 with 373's, but i have an Ex 8.8 that i'm puttin the 373 ring in. both axles are open, but it looks like the ranger carrier is a little smaller.

EDIT-ok wait, i was just thinking, maybe the bearings for the ranger 8.8 are a smaller diameter than the Ex bearings b/c of the spline count difference

 

[doorgunner]

Once I'm done, I'm going to do a write up on it, and include all details+pics

I;m gonna take pics of the swap....start to finish....that way, it'll be easier for you guys to show mw what I did wr-wr-wrong.....waaaaaaaaaaahahhaha

 

[Hahnsb2]

Yes you can buy crush sleeves separately. I chose to go with a crush sleeve eliminator when I built my 8.8, reusable and it doesn't take a stupid amount of torque to crush.

Save yourself the money, and don't pay a machine shop to press the ring gear. evenly apply pressure on the ring gear, you can get it on enough, so you can start threading the bolts in. From there tighten them evenly, like you would a wheel (star pattern) SLOWLY, and it will sink the ring gear nice and flush. Then torque to spec.

You're not supposed to do this. Throwing the carrier in the freezer for an hour or two works well.

 

[doorgunner]

Yes you can buy crush sleeves separately. I chose to go with a crush sleeve eliminator when I built my 8.8, reusable and it doesn't take a stupid amount of torque to crush.

You're not supposed to do this. Throwing the carrier in the freezer for an hour or two works well.

Yep.....the freezer causes the metal of the carrier to shrink a little making it easier to install the bearings....you can also warm the bearings to make them slip on easier........just remember that bearing races that get pressed into a hole need to be placed in a freezer for an hour to shrink them and make them easier to tap into place.....

 

[Todd]

d) getting the correct backlash is gonna be the hardest part.

The backlash is not the hard part or what takes the most time to get right. Its the pinion depth. And pinion depth has the most influence on the gear contact pattern. Sure backlash will change the contact some but once pinion depth is correct the back lash can be set to spec and most of the time the pattern in good.

I always start with the shims in the same location of the gear set that came out for a good starting reference. Keep a log of your shim thicknesses as you move the pinion and carrier, so if you start in the wrong direction you know where to start to go in the right direction.

The only reference you need is the Yukon install guide that comes with Yukon gear sets or install kits. The contact pattern guide in that little book is a great reference. Hell I'm at about 15+ gear sets now and I still look at that little book.