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Installing hydraulic roller lifters. 06 3.0L


RedRanger2006

Well-Known Member
Firefighter
Joined
Nov 27, 2024
Messages
56
City
Ontario
Vehicle Year
2006
Transmission
Automatic
Picked up some roller lifters (1.8:1) a ported intake & a bored out 60mm throttle body for the ranger, has anybody done this lifter process before? What will I run into, also what components should be replaced along with the lifters (new hardware) ect.
 
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Picked up some roller lifters, a ported intake & a bored out 60mm throttle body for the ranger, has anybody done this lifter process before? What will I run into, also what components should be replaced along with the lifters (new hardware) ect.

The stock lifters are hydraulic roller lifters. Is there something special or different about the ones that you purchased?
 
The stock lifters are hydraulic roller lifters. Is there something special or different about the ones that you purchased?
The stock lifters are hydraulic roller lifters. Is there something special or different about the ones that you purchased?
Apologies I forgot to input the specs, I've updated it now
1.8:1 adjustable
 
those are rocker arms, not lifters.
check the rocker geometry, get the rocker level with the tip centered on the valve stem.
 
The stock lifters are hydraulic roller lifters. Is there something special or different about the ones that you purchased?
The stock rocker arms are stamped steel and do not have rollers, does anything additionally need to he changed out or adjusted with them for this install
 
The stock rocker arms are stamped steel and do not have rollers, does anything additionally need to he changed out or adjusted with them for this install

Most likely... yes

You'll need to check the geometry of your new roller rockers. Wouldn't surprise me that you will need custom length push rods.
 
I think @stmitch has been through all of this before. When he speaks you should listen carefully.
 
Ok. There seems to be some confusion on terminology here. Not trying to talk down to you, but we should be clear about what we're discussing and make sure everybody is on the same page.

This is a hydraulic roller lifter for a 3.0 (which came stock in your Vulcan):
s-l1200.jpg


The roller rides on the cam lobes, and the base of the pushrod sits in the cup at the other end. When the cam spins, the lobes lift/lower the lifters and pushrods.

This is a roller rocker arm:
sum-g6905_sn_xl.jpg


They sit on top of the cylinder heads and act like a teeter totter between the pushrod and the valves. So when the pushrod comes up, the arm pushes the valve down, opening the valve to let intake air or exhaust through.




Sounds like you have aftermarket roller rockers with a 1.8 ratio, right? Stock ratio was 1.6, so you should get quite a bit more valve lift with the new rockers, meaning the valves open farther. That also means that the valves travel faster, because they now cover more distance in the same amount of time. That adds stress to your valve springs, and the 3.0 isn't known for having strong springs anyway. Tom Morana (who was probably the original seller of your new rocker arms) also sells a valve spring upgrade. If you can get them, I'd highly recommend that. Otherwise you risk floating valves if the springs are not strong enough to keep the proper pressure on the rocker arm. That would limit your power upgrade. Even worse, it opens you up to breaking valve springs, which can happen even on stock 3.0s as they get into higher mileage. If you can get your hands on a valve spring upgrade then I would definitely do it. If you cannot, then I'd at least try to get new stock replacements.

I don't have any experience with adjustable rockers on the 3.0, but I do have Morana's standard 1.8 rockers and they've been fine. I would spin the engine by hand and carefully double check the roller tip where it meets the valve stem to make sure that it rides properly throughout it's range of motion. Other than that, I'd just make sure things are well lubricated and properly torqued. The install was pretty straight forward for mine. Obviously, you'll need to make sure yours are properly adjusted. I'm sure there are some good youtube videos on the topic that you can review.
 
Last edited:
Ok. There seems to be some confusion on terminology here. Not trying to talk down to you, but we should be clear about what we're discussing and make sure everybody is on the same page.

This is a hydraulic roller lifter for a 3.0 (which came stock in your Vulcan):
s-l1200.jpg


The roller rides on the cam lobes, and the base of the pushrod sits in the cup at the other end. When the cam spins, the lobes lift/lower the lifters and pushrods.

This is a roller rocker arm:
sum-g6905_sn_xl.jpg


They sit on top of the cylinder heads and act like a teeter totter between the pushrod and the valves. So when the pushrod comes up, the arm pushes the valve down, opening the valve to let intake air or exhaust through.




Sounds like you have aftermarket roller rockers with a 1.8 ratio, right? Stock ratio was 1.6, so you should get quite a bit more valve lift with the new rockers, meaning the valves open farther. That also means that the valves travel faster, because they now cover more distance in the same amount of time. That adds stress to your valve springs, and the 3.0 isn't known for having strong springs anyway. Tom Morana (who was probably the original seller of your new rocker arms) also sells a valve spring upgrade. If you can get them, I'd highly recommend that. Otherwise you risk floating valves if the springs are not strong enough to keep the proper pressure on the rocker arm. That would limit your power upgrade. Even worse, it opens you up to breaking valve springs, which can happen even on stock 3.0s as they get into higher mileage. If you can get your hands on a valve spring upgrade then I would definitely do it. If you cannot, then I'd at least try to get new stock replacements.

I don't have any experience with adjustable rockers on the 3.0, but I do have Morana's standard 1.8 rockers and they've been fine. I would spin the engine by hand and carefully double check the roller tip where it meets the valve stem to make sure that it rides properly throughout it's range of motion. Other than that, I'd just make sure things are well lubricated and properly torqued. The install was pretty straight forward for mine. Obviously, you'll need to make sure yours are properly adjusted. I'm sure there are some good youtube videos on the topic that you can review.
Awesome, so no need for new rods then? Get a set of new springs and figure out how to set the lash ect on the rockers and good to go.
 
you won't know if new push rods are needed until the rockers are installed, then see if clearances/lash are good or bad.
 
Ok. There seems to be some confusion on terminology here. Not trying to talk down to you, but we should be clear about what we're discussing and make sure everybody is on the same page.

This is a hydraulic roller lifter for a 3.0 (which came stock in your Vulcan):
s-l1200.jpg


The roller rides on the cam lobes, and the base of the pushrod sits in the cup at the other end. When the cam spins, the lobes lift/lower the lifters and pushrods.

This is a roller rocker arm:
sum-g6905_sn_xl.jpg


They sit on top of the cylinder heads and act like a teeter totter between the pushrod and the valves. So when the pushrod comes up, the arm pushes the valve down, opening the valve to let intake air or exhaust through.




Sounds like you have aftermarket roller rockers with a 1.8 ratio, right? Stock ratio was 1.6, so you should get quite a bit more valve lift with the new rockers, meaning the valves open farther. That also means that the valves travel faster, because they now cover more distance in the same amount of time. That adds stress to your valve springs, and the 3.0 isn't known for having strong springs anyway. Tom Morana (who was probably the original seller of your new rocker arms) also sells a valve spring upgrade. If you can get them, I'd highly recommend that. Otherwise you risk floating valves if the springs are not strong enough to keep the proper pressure on the rocker arm. That would limit your power upgrade. Even worse, it opens you up to breaking valve springs, which can happen even on stock 3.0s as they get into higher mileage. If you can get your hands on a valve spring upgrade then I would definitely do it. If you cannot, then I'd at least try to get new stock replacements.

I don't have any experience with adjustable rockers on the 3.0, but I do have Morana's standard 1.8 rockers and they've been fine. I would spin the engine by hand and carefully double check the roller tip where it meets the valve stem to make sure that it rides properly throughout it's range of motion. Other than that, I'd just make sure things are well lubricated and properly torqued. The install was pretty straight forward for mine. Obviously, you'll need to make sure yours are properly adjusted. I'm sure there are some good youtube videos on the topic that you can review.
Could you tell me to clarify, if it is stud or pedestal mounted rockers? So I'm able educate myself correctly
 
there are dozens, if not hundreds of variations of rockers and their mounts.

the rockers in your 3.0 are pedestal mount.
not adjustable, and the pedestal keeps them aligned.
the bottom of the pedestal is square and fits into a slot on the heads, that keeps it aligned.

in very general terms, studs are adjustable and don't always keep the rockers aligned.
again, there are many variations.
 
Could you tell me to clarify, if it is stud or pedestal mounted rockers? So I'm able educate myself correctly

Looks like Morana sells three varieties of 1.8 roller rockers:
- non-adjustable pedestal mount rockers for $500
- adjustable pedestal mount rockers are $575
- adjustable stud mounted rockers are $650


If you're buying them second hand, then it could be any of those three options.
 
@RedRanger2006
can you get some pics of the rockers? top & bottom, center hole diameter.

the ranger heads have 8mm bolts, 8mm is only .002" different that 5/16" so the holes are basically the same.
 

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