Important clutch questions...

[88ranger2.95sp]

Ok over the weekend I've pulled the 2.9 out of Ranger #2 and looked it over, replacing the rear seal, pan gasket, clutch, slave cylinder, clutch line, oil pump and oil pickup tube. Whew it's been a long few days.

Now the truck isn't on the road, but I have driven it around 100 ft. When I hit first to second gear, it shifts fine. A-OK.

The clutch pedal doesn't come up as high as it used to. Is this normal? I think it's ok cause the clutch is new and it engages lower because it's engaging sooner. I think...

Also now it's a little harder to get into first gear from reverse. YOu have to almost go into second and push it harder. Not real hard, but more than i would like. It's been bled. SHould I bleed it more?

What's the correct way to bleed it? The instructions said to pump 15 times and open the valve let the air escape, then close it. Seems simple enough, and I've bled brakes before. This is what I did. If there's a better way, lemme know.

If anyone can answer these simple questions that'd be great. I appreciate all the help.

Rob

 

[rleister]

Clutch answers

DON'T EVER LET THE RESIVOIR RUN DRY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Low releasing clutch is symptomatic of air in the system, probably the clutch master cylinder. That animal is installed at a 45 degree down angle, and if air gets in it, it is easiest to bleed removed from the vehicle. Pain in the rear!!! However if it will drive, find a ditch or a hill and drive uphill until the master cylinder appears level, the remove cap and THE BLACK RUBBER DIRT SEAL, open the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and let gravity do the work, DON'T LET THE RESIVOIR RUN DRY!!!!!!!!!!!!! let sit at least 15 minutes, close bleed valve, the bleed by pumping as you would brakes to remove any air from slave cylinder.

Until you get all the air out of the master cylinder, it's a waste of time.

I HAD TO REMOVE MINE WITH THE LINE INTACT AND BENCH BLEED BY HANGING IT IN A TREE WITH THE RESIVIOR HIGHER THAN THE MASTER CYLINDER WITH THE MASTER CYLINDER TURNED UPSIDE DOWN. WHEN IT QUIT BUBBLING I USED A PHILLIPS SCREW DRIVER TO PUMP IT UP, AND ANOTHER TO OPEN THE END OF THE LINE TO BLEED THE LAST AIR OUT. WHEN COMPLETELY BLED YOU SHOULD HAVE NO MORE THE 1/8 TO 3/16" TRAVEL BY HAND WITH A SCREWDRIVER.

 

[MAKG]

It's not at all unusual for the feel to change with new hydraulic parts.

The clutch itself does NOT matter. It is a hydraulic clutch, and you can learn ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about your clutch condition from the friction point location.

The clutch's job is to release and engage when commanded. If it does that, STOP. You're done.

 

[brendank]

I've also found that the engagement point is usually lower on the pedal after the hydraulics are split. It's because there's likely still a small amount of air in the master or lines.

Bleed the clutch to a point where you have to press the pedal 1-3" before engagement and then quit. These hydraulic systems have a tendency to bleed themselves the rest of the way over time.

 

[88ranger2.95sp]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna give it a go today and drive it around the neighborhood and run through the gears. Maybe that'll bleed it. I'll keep an eye on the fluid level too cause it does seem awfully important...

I'll post back with how it goes.

Rob

 

[fastpakr]

Mike's absolutely right about the hydraulic systems feeling different with part replacement. The '94 Ranger I just bought feels like a completely different animal compared to the Explorer. Less than half the pressure required to release the clutch. Both work fine, however.

If the reservoir really did run dry, you can avoid completely removing the master cylinder. You just need to unbolt it from the firewall and invert it so the spot towards the bottom that tends to trap air is low and air naturally flows towards the line going to the trans. Run a bleed line from the slave cylinder all the way up into the reservoir and cycle the pedal 10-15 times until the line is completely clear. Seal it up, bolt it up, and enjoy driving a Ranger.