Imaginary alarm! I dont have one but its going off.

[kunar]

if you have PATS, you should have a chip key, maybe that's the issue. if your truck ever had a remote start, sometimes they put a chip (or even a whole key) under the column somewhere. maybe it's there, but just barely close enough that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt? just a wild ass guess. oh, and i didnt recently read through the thread so i dont know if this was suggested already...

 

[97RangerXLT]

Sounds like your Ford dealer sucks.

Don't ever take it back to them. I would call up a reputable aftermarket alarm/ stereo install shop and see if they can help you out. they might have some knowledge about how the PATS is wired and set to work with the truck, especially if they install remote start kits.

I thought PATS didn't go into the Ranger until the early 2000's...My 97 does not have it, I have a regular key with no electronic chip whatsoever.

AJ

 

[naford]

If you have a flashing light on the dash that flashes slowly and says theft then you have the PATS system. If you go to start the truck and the light flashes very fast and the truck won't start then you have a PATS problem. Last time I had an issue the dealer changed the computer without telling me and my spare key didn't work. If you have more than one ford key near the reader the light will flash fast and the truck won't start. I take it from your post that you grounded the alarm system? If so could that wire have broken, come loose, something like that?

 

[Southenrfirewood]

I dont have and have never had a chip key. I took the doors and the colum apart and nothing has broken loose and the colum is all stock nobody has put a remote start or had hung a key near the ignition. Also an added factor the truck will randomly have it go off. The last time it started doing this nobody was near the truck lights just randomly started flashing and the horn started honking. And since it had gone off 3 days ago I havent been able to reset it.

 

[Southenrfirewood]

Does anyone know if it can be programed out?

 

[Jraymer360]

Does anyone know if it can be programed out?

i don't really understand how you have a regular key, i'm 99% sure all 98+ rangers had the chip key.

 

[--weezl--]

PATS were on:

1999-2004 Ranger V6
2006+ all Rangers

 

[Southenrfirewood]

Someone suggested putting a computer in it. Also since I bought my truck its been throwing a code P1151. Iv changed every sensor in it and it wont go away. Is there any way of testing the computer. I dont want to waist a few hundred bucks to not resolve anything

 

[Southenrfirewood]

I think ill just light it on fire and buy a dodge

 

[SenorNoob]

Please, Don't do that.^ IDK about the newer models but on the older ones usually if you get a valid response from the computer, (IE: codes) it's OK. Have heard of a few times that wasn't the case.

Just from a quick look at your thread, I'd say it sounds like (1) you have a wiring issue somewhere, or (2) someone has swapped some electrical components before you got the truck (I'm thinking the ECU or GEM).
Although I would think that swapped parts would cause a more consistent problem.

Edit: Does your trucks show a VIN on a code reader when it's connected? If it does, does that match the VIN under the windshield?

 

[Southenrfirewood]

I still havent been able to figure it out. It doesnt give me a vin number on my code reader. Iv spent countless hours chasing it. For now I am going to wire a switch from the fuse box ( Pats/fuel pump) fuse to my dash board so I can turn the switch off start the truck and switch it on quick so the fuel pump kicks in

 

[SenorNoob]

Brilliant solution, but there should be a way to correct it permanently. Any chance it's not a factory alarm? That would be something that the dealership wouldn't have a clue.

Also, probably already know this but, http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ford/p1151.php

Since pulling the fuse works, couldn't you trace the wires from that fuse to wherever it splits off at and simply cut the alarm out of the circuit. At least then you wouldn't have to switch it anymore.

Apparently the only system that would have from the factory, is RAP module based. (Doesn't mean it wasn't a dealer option.)

The ignition lock anti-theft switch (19A438) can detect when the ignition key cylinder is broken or "slam pulled" during a theft. The ignition lock anti-theft switch is always monitored by the remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module. This allows the alarm system to be triggered in case the ignition lock anti-theft switch detects tampering of the ignition key cylinder (even in the event the alarm is inactive at the time).
For more details on the keyless entry remote transmitter (15K601), refer to Section 501-14B.
The door open warning lamp switch (14018) communicates to the RAP module through the generic electronic module (GEM). This input to the RAP will cause the anti-theft alarm to be sounded if the anti-theft alarm was armed.
The door disarm switches are assembled into the LH and RH lock cylinders. The door disarm switch must be triggered before the mechanical lock unlocks. This is to prevent the anti-theft alarm from activating when it should have been disarmed.
The RAP module controls the anti-theft system and the keyless entry system. The RAP module communicates with the GEM to request that the interior lights be turned ON/OFF with use of the keyless entry remote transmitter, and the GEM communicates to the RAP to inform when the door is opened. Refer to Section 418-00 for inter-module communication.
In addition to the perimeter alarm that uses the door open warning lamp switch and hood switch, the RAP module also uses the ignition lock anti-theft switch feature to prevent theft of the vehicle.
The anti-theft light emitting diode (LED) is located on the instrument panel near the RH turn signal indicator. The THEFT LED is illuminated during prearming and flashes when armed or triggered.
Prearming and Arming the System
The system can be armed if the ignition is OFF, the PANIC alarm is OFF and all doors are closed.
The system can be prearmed by pressing the lock button on the transmitter or by opening a door, pressing the power door lock button, and closing the door.
After 30 seconds, the system will be armed and the THEFT indicator in the cluster will flash every two seconds.
Disarming an Untriggered System
An armed system will be disarmed with one of these valid actions:

• Pressing the unlock button on the transmitter.
• Placing a key in the door and turning to unlock.
• Turning the key to RUN or ACC.

Triggering Anti-Theft Alarm
The anti-theft alarm can be triggered if:

• The ignition cylinder is damaged with or without the RAP module being armed.
• The door is opened without disarming the armed RAP module.
• Opening the hood (if the hood was open when the system was armed, it must be closed before it can trigger the alarm).

The remote transmitter can activate a panic alarm which is similar to an anti-theft alarm, but does not deactivate the starter or cause the THEFT indicator to flash.
Disarming a Triggered System
If the system has been triggered (the horn sounds and the lights flash), the system can be disarmed by:

• Pressing the unlock or panic button on the transmitter.
• Putting a key in the door and unlocking the door.
• Turning the ignition to RUN/ACC (turning the key to RUN/ACC will not disarm an alarm that has been triggered by the ignition lock anti-theft switch).

Apparently this shows what the RAP module looks like. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192268

This might be helpful as well. http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6744

It seems that if you can locate the module, it might be possible to just remove it and end up with a working truck...

I hope something in there is helpful.

Edit: I just noticed this as well: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/117...-visual/125811-rap-module-wiring-diagram.html