I'm sure I got a short.

[RobbieD]

From the ignition control module connector it comes out one black wire then goes into that yellow and black tube which we're believing is shrink tubing.
Then comes out it appears to be two separate bare wires.

But where do / does the OTHER end(s) of that bare wire go?


That spot that @alwaysFlOoReD pointed out does looks suspect, too.

Here is the spot on the bare wire that caught my attention:

But it's really hard to tell from still pics (even though your pics are good), versus having things in your hand and being able to move them around and look from differing angles. Your later pic, that spot looks OK, so the spot I commented on may actually be on the pink wire, not the bare wire.

This:

Looks like a probe, such as a test light, was stuck in the wire sometime past. If so, these open holes in the plastic insulation will let moisture start rotting the copper strands on the inside. You may want to look carefully at that spot. That white spot on the opposite side of the wire from my yellow arrow, sure looks like corrosion, and a hole where the probe came out of the wire.

I think that your current problem is just janky wiring.

You've got this; just be thorough, use common sense along with your EVTM, and repair any questionable spots in a workmanship-like manner.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I had to stop for tonight.
Ain't got enough light.
I'm sorry I'm going to drive one of my brothers bow ties home.
No reason to keep driving my truck the way it is and making things worse.
I'll reply to the other post that have been posted giving me advice and asking me questions when I get to my house. I got to go to Kroger's before I go home.

 

[RobbieD]

I'm sorry I'm going to drive one of my brothers bow ties home.

GO STAND IN THE CORNER! And think about what you did.


Just kidding, of course.

After all; tomorrow is another day. You'll be fresher, and you'll get it sorted out.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

What happened to the second picture I posted in post #515 of this thread.

This picture

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Okay @alwaysFlOoReD the picture that is still in post #515 of this thread is were you asked about that pink wire with the black on it.

That you then zoomed in on and circled in post #525 of this thread.

That is the in harness Pink wire for the spout.
The black spot you circled was just some grime it rubbed right off with a little pressure.
The wire felt fine there.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

The red wire I talked about in post #523 of this thread is for sure the power wire for the ignition control module.
I realized after looking closer at it, where that spot looks funny is that way because the wire itself was coming out of the connector a little bit.
A I unhooked the connector lock that holds the wires in place and push the wire back in place.
Hook the connector lock back up. Then plugged connector back up to the ignition control module. Started the truck and had no real change in the problem I'm having.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

My last post, post #531 of this thread, was also the same wire @RobbieD pointed to with his yellow arrow in his post, post #526 of this thread.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I edited my post, post #531 in this thread it now seems easier to read and understand.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@RobbieD in your post, post #526 of this thread.
You asked:

But where do / does the OTHER end(s) of that bare wire go?

At this time I don't know.
However I intend to find out tomorrow.
And I intend to replace that very wire with wire that's insulated with plastic housing or whatever it's called.

 

[RobbieD]

I think that your bare wire is a ground out of the ICM which provides shielding for the signal wires from the crankshaft position sensor, and also shielding for the ignition ground to the PCM. That explains why it splits into two bare wires after the splice. This wire is at pin 7 on the ICM.

See page 21-8 in your EVTM for the ICM C176 pin-out.

If that shielding is compromised, if either of those two circuits gets too close to any source of electrical interference it can create havoc. Shielding usually has a foil wrap, around the signal wires and a bare grounding wire. Moving wiring harnesses around a little can eliminate or reduce the interference enough to make the problem go away, especially if the shielded harness is too close to other wiring harnesses, a coil pack or spark plug cable.

You may have that going on,

OR

It could be that have a basic power and/or ground issue.

Do check what's going on the pricked Red wire; that is your ignition power wire to the ICM. The Red wire is at pin 8.

And also check the Black/White at pin 9; that is the ground for the ICM. Set your multimeter to ohms (I'm sorry; set it to "headphones" ) and backprobe the Black/White with one lead and put the other lead on that battery negative terminal. You should read only a couple of ohms, if any, and zero would ideal.

AND

Finally, the C176 connector itself could be hopelessly pooched. I believe that you've already found and fixed a slipped (unlocked) pin on the Red wire, and the broken connector lock tab is a problem, although your tie-wrap trick should work (which I've used many times myself).

Unfortunately, electrical final exams are usually multiple choice question, and not simple true-or-false questions.

 

[RobbieD]

@RobbieD in your post, post #526 of this thread.
You asked:


At this time I don't know.
However I intend to find out tomorrow.
And I intend to replace that very wire with wire that's insulated with plastic housing or whatever it's called.

I looked at my EVTM and I think figured it out. See my post just prior (which crossed yours).

Hopefully that post will give you a little more insight on things that the problem could be.

You'll get it; don't get discouraged.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@RobbieD your talking about your post, post #520 of this thread right?

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Okay @RobbieD let me just verify I understand right.

And also check the Black/White at pin 9; that is the ground for the ICM. Set your multimeter to ohms (I'm sorry; set it to "headphones" ) and backprobe the Black/White with one lead and put the other lead on that battery negative terminal. You should read only a couple of ohms, if any, and zero would ideal.

So I should unhook the the connector from the ignition control module.

Put my multimeter on ohms i.e. the headphones.
Set it to the lowest ohms setting I have, which is 600.

Then while the battery is still hooked up to the battery cables place one of my probes from my multimeter into the hole of Pin 9 of the ignition control module connector not the actual module.
And the other probe on to the negative battery cable at the terminal of the battery.

And see what my reading is.

Should I do this with the ignition on or the ignition off?
Or does the ignition being on or off even matter?

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I got to be honest. I'm kind of at a loss here.

So if those two wires that are coming out of that splice on wire 57 which is also pin 7 of the ignition control module.
Are they supposed to actually be bare like that? Or is that just a mistake?
If I do replace them with unbarred wire i.e. wire that has a plastic insulation coating will I mess things up worse?

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I've been standing in this corner for about 2 hours now.
Can I get out now?
Lol