I'm sure I got a short.

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

And no @Uncle Gump I've still not figured out that Short yet.
And right now I'm not even trying to figure it out.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Calling it a "long" at this point just seems fitting?

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I agree @Uncle Gump .

 

[Curious Hound]

First, you don't not want to drill through something while it is hot from the torch. That heat will combine with the friction of drilling and dull your drills faster.

I have not used an induction heater. But I have seen them used. They are very effective. A very safe and economical way to get concentrated heat onto a stuck fastener. The idea with the heat is to expand the metal. As the metal expands, the rust breaks free. Then, as the fastener is cooling, you carefully turn it back and forth to further break the rust bond. Then you can remove the fastener. That's the theory. It does not work 100% of the time but it's one of the best methods. Also, after heating, hold some wax - a candle or crayon or chicken of beeswax on the threads so that it melts and gets wicked into the threads as everything cools.

The only advantage a torch has over this is that if the heating and cooling doesn't work, you can use the torch to easily cut the offending fastener. Liquid (molten) metal is never tight. However, especially in tight places, it is easy to damage other things with the torch.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

When drilling, you do not go up in size in small steps. Drill a pilot hole the same size or slightly bigger than the chisel point of the size drill that you will use. Then drill the hole to the proper size.
Going up in steps concentrate all the force on the outside edges of the bit and they dull and chip easily. The idea is to use the whole cutting edge so that the forces are spread along the whole cutting edge. It also makes a difference with cutting speed. Generally I will go full speed up to about 3/8". Then start cutting speed as bits get bigger. Use cutting fluid, it keeps the bits cooler and helps preserve the edge.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@Curious Hound I agree molten metal does not have a tight fitting to anything.

My biggest worry with using an actual torch is messing other things up that's for sure.

At this point I've grinded one of the bolts even with the manifold so I'm pretty sure the heat induction tool won't do me any good on that stud.
I've already cut a little ways into the other stud and manifold so I'm sure the heat induction tool won't do me any good there either.
The last stud that I still have to deal with,
I can't even get my cutting disc in close enough to cut it to grind it or cut it close enough to the exhaust manifold to even start drilling it out.

The exhaust manifold to head bolts are in so well the heads of the bolts are trying to strip as well, so I can't get the exhaust manifolds off.
I'm starting to think I might need to take my truck to a shop and have them drill the bolts out for me.
They would be able to put it up on the lift and really get to the studs and be able to use their drill easier and better.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

So @alwaysFlOoReD your saying if I want the new bolt holes to be 7/16 so I can easily get a 3/8 bolt into it,
to use my 7/16 drill bit the whole time.
And use something PB blaster as a cutting fluid.

I'm I understanding you correctly?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Basically, yes. I would start with 1/8", then go directly to 7/16".
PB Blaster might work as cutting fluid, or it might be too slippery. Crisco can work. Lard used to be used as cutting fluid...

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

And I'm just using the 1/8 bit to get a little bit of a hole so the tip of the 7/16 bit will have a good starting point and then going to the 7/16 bit the whole rest of the way.

Do I have it right now?

 

[Curious Hound]

I usually drill the pilot hole (1/8" hole) all the way through.

If you look at the point of a drill bit,especially a large one, you see that the center portion, between the cutting edges, really doesn't have a good cutting edge. The tiny 1/8" bit is the same way. But it is smaller and easier to make it cut. But the larger bits don't really cut there. So the smaller pilot hole makes room for the center (web) of the larger bit to go through the material you are drilling. You want the pilot hole to be approximately the size of that center part if your larger bit.

Cutting oils help reduce the friction during cutting and help keep the cutting edges cooler so your bit doesn't burn up and get dull too fast. With softer metals like aluminum, you generally want a thinner (flows easier) cutting oil. With steel you want a heavier cutting oil. Crisco or lard or even wheel bearing grease should work. I have even used old or new motor oil as cutting oil. I have used a commercial cutting oil that had the consistency of honey. That helped it stick to the drill better. PB Blaster or WD 40 are OK but they are thinner and better for softer metals.

 

[Curious Hound]

Here are some pictures to help with the idea of the pilot hole.

First, here are the parts of a drill bit identified. Don't go crazy trying to memorize it. Just notice the web and the "chisel point". The chisel point really doesn't cut. You are just forcing it through the material. So, bigger drill = bigger web and chisel point = much harder to force through whatever you are drilling.

Here is a close-up photo showing an appropriately sized pilot drill compared to the chisel point of the larger drill.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I will try to get some good pictures of the tips of the drill bits I bought to post tomorrow.
They're not like regular drill bits that just come to a point.

I start college classes, vocational college I don't know what I should really call it for:
Metal Fabrication and Welding
tomorrow.
I'm taking the classes though Sinclair community college.

So I don't know if I'll be able to post tomorrow or not.
I start two classes tomorrow my first class starts at 1:00 p.m. and my last class lets out at like 9:30 p.m.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Thanks for the help and encouragement guys.
My phone battery is at 5%, so I got to stop for tonight.
Hopefully I'll be able to post tomorrow.
Good night everyone.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I will try to get some good pictures of the tips of the drill bits I bought to post tomorrow.
They're not like regular drill bits that just come to a point.

I start college classes, vocational college I don't know what I should really call it for:
Metal Fabrication and Welding
tomorrow.
I'm taking the classes though Sinclair community college.

So I don't know if I'll be able to post tomorrow or not.
I start two classes tomorrow my first class starts at 1:00 p.m. and my last class lets out at like 9:30 p.m.

Good for you! One day you'll be teaching us...

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Well I had to drop 1 of my classes before it started today.
Hopefully I will be able to take it next 1/4 or semester or whatever they call it.
I was able to start 1 of my classes today however so that is a good thing.

I was also able to take some pictures of 2 of my drill bits today as well.
I couldn't find the other 2 drill bits however.
My brother moved the tools I was using on my truck around so I will have to ask him where he put them.

So here is pictures of the 3/8 bit I've been using and the new 7/16 bit that I haven't used yet.

Notice the bottom of the package says COBALT on it.
From what I understand Cobalt is supposed to be the strongest steel that's made.
Also notice the tips are not like normal drill bits. It has a step down to it.