I'm new here and....

[reno]

I'm new here and I need some help. I have been reading the threads here and seems that a lot of people with the 4.0 are having similar problems as I am.

I have a 1993 Ranger 4.0 5 speed 4X4 and have been having symptoms of sluggishness, almost like running out of gas, (maybe restricted exhaust?). I have replaced the wires,plugs and coil. I also found a vacuum leak in the brake booster, which I have changed. I removed the MAF and cleaned it as instructed here on this site. I cleaned the IAC also. O2 sensors were put on by the former owner, I found them wired backwards, and put them the correct way, that straightened out the idle. I was pulling codes 172,173,176 and 177. Now after I cleaned the above mentioned items and replaced the booster, I get codes 173 and 176. Could the O2 have been correct the first time and I have them wrong? How do we know which side what plug goes to? The harness for the O2's is loose from where the former owner removed the tranny to replace the clutch.

How do I tell if the Cat converter is on its way out? I know the cab has been getting warm, someone told me that is one sign, and the rough ride,sluggish engine,spit and sputtering, etc.....

Vacuum test shows a steady needle at 17inhg, fuel pump test shows 30psi KO,30psi KOER,30psi drop to 29psi for 1-5sec then 30psi on steady high rev (2000rpm @ 20-30sec). Will do a compression test tomorrow, dark to do it now and I am to tired.

Any help will be much appreciated.
-=Reno=-

 

[Robin Hood]

Fuel filter?

 

[reno]

A fuel filter will cause the PCM to give a code of 172 and 173? That is what is coming up now.

172(R,M)
Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control

173(R,M)
Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control

Not saying I don't believe it, after all I had a very small Vacuum leak and that wrecked all kinds of havoc. How can I test the fuel injectors? Maybe I have a faulty one or two? I listened to them one by one with a Mechanics stethoscope and they all sound the same, a metallic ticking. But still why is one side rich and the other lean? Corroded wires for the injectors?

 

[Robin Hood]

I'm just throwing a suggestion out there.

Sounds like you need new O2 sensors...

Kind of confusing. I'd wait for a second opinion.

 

[reno]

I just tried to go into a cylinder balance test, but not to sure how to do this. I will try tomorrow. I can definately smell a strong odor of gas (Fumes).

You maybe right about having to replace them (O2's), is there a way to test them?

-=Reno=-

 

[Robin Hood]

http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html

 

[Donnie strickland]

I had the same symptoms and the same codes as you. I checked Alldata and it said to check the injectors first. Mine were all working, but needed cleaning. Clogged injector nozzles prevent proper fuel metering, hence I had the same bank(s) reading lean and rich. I used a through-the-fuel-rail cleaner from NAPA, which fixed the problem.

 

[reno]

What is "Through the Rail" F.I. cleaner? I'm so tired of this, I'm getting ready to open up this cat and see if there is an improvement.

 

[Donnie strickland]

I bought the hardware here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel...ryZ43998QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And then I bought the cleaning solution at NAPA.

It would have been cheaper to take it somewhere and have the injectors cleaned; I just wanted to do it myself. There are cases, though, where the injectors must be removed and then cleaned.

It may be your cat -- or something else entirely -- but based on your codes I would try this first. Believe me, I know frustrated you feel.

 

[reno]

I did a cylinder balance test, all 3 times came up with a code 10 (Cylinder 1). Now the next question, if I unplug an injector, should the truck have a noticeable miss? I unplugged #1 inj-no difference, then #2 and no difference, I stopped there to ask this question.


-=Reno=-

 

[Donnie strickland]

Well, if you unplug two injectors at once there should definitely be a miss. You could replace them now (which I wouldn't yet recommend) or get them cleaned and tested (which I would). This would tell you for sure if the injectors are at fault.

 

[reno]

I unplugged the O2 sensors and checked the plugs for dirt,corrosion. Rechecked the wiring diagram in the Haynes Manual and replugged them back again. Cleared the codes,and test drove the truck, guess what, no CEL, no surging, no spit and sputter, took the truck up to 75 and not a miss. Truck is rockin and rollin again