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Idling vs start and stop.


start up clatter is due to using the incorrect oil filter

USE ONLY MOTORCRAFT FILTERS and you won't have that problem

reason being is cuz the motorcraft filters have anti-siphon anti-drain back valves so they do not bleed oil all the way down on shut off.

This is a very common problem on marauders, mach1's with the 4v aluminum engines that have plastic tensioners as well as the 3v 4.6/5.4 engines that are notorious for eating cam phasers. The tensioners and cam phasers fail due to not using the correct motorcraft oil filter and thus causing low oil pressure on startup.

While i agree with your sentiment on using oem parts, no ranger engine uses a filter with an anti drain valve. Motocraft or not. Anti drain valves only matter on above pan vertical mounted filters. There is no need for such a device on a normal side or bottom mounted filter. Ranger 2.3, 3.0 and 4.0 motorcraft filters have only bypass valves, but then so does even the cheapest wix garbage filter.
 
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start up clatter is due to using the incorrect oil filter

USE ONLY MOTORCRAFT FILTERS and you won't have that problem

reason being is cuz the motorcraft filters have anti-siphon anti-drain back valves so they do not bleed oil all the way down on shut off.

This is a very common problem on marauders, mach1's with the 4v aluminum engines that have plastic tensioners as well as the 3v 4.6/5.4 engines that are notorious for eating cam phasers. The tensioners and cam phasers fail due to not using the correct motorcraft oil filter and thus causing low oil pressure on startup.

I use only MC filters and I still have startup clatter on my one engine, but only if it sits for a few days.
 
At one time Motorcraft filters were made by Purolator, though perhaps to different specs. Oil filters vary quite a bit in features, design and quality of materials, and there are several good analysis of them on the web. Motorcraft filters are certainly not especially good. Clatter is from many things, but mostly empty hydraulic lash adjusters, likely exacerbated by newer thinner oils. It's what it sounds like - metal hitting metal because there's not enough of an oil film.
 
I second that. Motorcraft filters are worth the difference and they're often cheaper than some supposedly premium filters. There was a TSB a couple years back about valve train clatter being caused by pieces of plastic drain back valves from cheap( TSB said aftermarket) filters getting lodged in cylinder head oil passages. Once the plastic pieces were found and expensive repair was switched from warranty to customer pay.
 
On my Cougar Duratec V6 I've used some cheaper filters on occasion, but mostly switched to Motorcraft or Bosch. Recently I've had trouble will all the cheaper filter gaskets leaking, and on that car it gets on the exhaust. I tighten them up like I always did and find I have to keep re-tightening them to stop them from dripping. I never had this problem previously and suspect there has been some change in the rubber used on the seal. The Motorcraft filters did it too, but I have not seen this on the Bosch and Mobil1 filters.
 
Most oil filters have an anti-drain back valve. Granted, some are better than others. PureOne, Wix, Bosch, Mobil1, and K&N are all equal or beat build quality to the Motorcraft filter. I'm sure there are others out there but those are the ones I've seen tear down videos on and have used. If one wants to use only Motorcraft, you can't go wrong and can't get dinged for it. There are certain parts that I've found out the hard way that is better to go Motorcraft only on. Rebuilt power steering pumps and thermostats are two of them. I used Motorcraft wires and plugs last time I changed them. The rest is going to be a personal call. As long as you can verify the parts are going to be the same quality or better, aftermarket will work just fine.
 

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