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Identify part off of the Heater Control Valve


I removed the old cluster today and took it apart. Looks like I'll be able to change the speedometer section of the gauge if I get another one without a tachometer. Looking locally for one.
 
I went to the junkyard today and picked up a second complete gauge set. Both it and the one I purchased from a local guy act the same. The fuel gauge seems to work, the temperature gauge works. Haven't taken it for a drive as yet. Truck is still on jack stands.

The oil pressure at start jumps just a little and returns to the original low position. The voltmeter never moves and stays at the low end.

Both gauge sets work the same. What can I do to check the sending wires for the voltmeter and oil pressure gauge? Should I get voltage or ohms?

Thank you Ron for the wiring diagrams. I'm sorry that I am not the best at reading them.

The battery light is now going off as it should.

Could I have a bad ground? I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to run a wire from the battery ground and splice it into the black wire?
 
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Anyone have a suggestion on next steps?
 
Oil pressure sender on the engine is just an on/off ground
At 5psi its is off, not grounded
At 6psi it is on, grounded, gauge should go up

Idling engine should be 7 to 9psi
General rule is 10psi per 1,000rpm, so 800rpm = 8psi

You can unplug the 1 wire oil sender and Ground it's wire to cluster, then turn on the key and oil gauge should show pressure, 1/4 to 1/3 is normal
If it does then sender is most likely bad

As for the volt gauge you can test the wires on the cluster
There are 3 fuses that power the cluster(11, 15 and 25), they will all have 12volts with key on
And 2 Ground wires, from same ground source
Use these grounds with the 12v wires to see if BOTH grounds are OK, and each 12v wire reads 12volts
 
Excellent help Ron. I'll look into it tomorrow morning. Thanks again.
 

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