Constant alignments, close small wheel bearings, an extra ujoint to replace. The need for a custom steering setup or a $200 pitman arm.
Strange, I have exactly 0 issues with that on mine (looks like someone else here might need some TTB schooling too).
I do have a custom steering setup... however anyone who thinks a Jeep's stock steering can't also benefit from an upgrade has even more to learn.
Adjustable/serviceable wheel bearings > cartridge bearings any day of the week.
To the OP, the Tech Library does have a lot of the info you're looking for, though I would say some of the terms you inquired about tend to be most prominent in the desert-racing scene (we do have a Prerunners section here, though as a whole we tend toward a nationwide audience, which leads to more focus on crawling and trail riding modifications (and a little bit of mudding), not just stuff for going fast).
But to brief you on the terms you mentioned:
"Unequal/Equal length" refers to that of the axle beams themselves (length from the pivot point to the wheel).
There's a common misconception that equal length = better, however there is a valid reason for them to
not be equal length (and making them equal length is often counterproductive if there are radius arms present).
This diagram shows why they should be
unequal-length if the suspension's camber curves are to be symmetrical (the suspension's pivot axes run diagonally, not longitudinally).
"Drop brackets" are just that, new axle brackets that lower the axle & suspension down to provide you a base for your lift.
Some brackets out there tend to be weaker than the stock brackets because of added leverage, though there are also others that are far
sturdier than OE brackets because they also widen their mounting footprints which more than offsets their leverage.
"Cut & Turn" is a term commonly used to describe modification of the beams themselves for lift (in lieu of drop brackets). Benefit is better clearance (you're less likely to strike something while jumping/landing), though they do have a downside of increased lateral jacking if you're on an off-camber climb or sidehill, along with increased strain on the center u-joint & slip-shaft.
No doubt there are places for both TTB drop brackets and modified beams. Typically if you're looking for go-fast performance (prerunner), modified beams are the way to go for their better clearance (modified beams are usually better in deep mud also). Anything else (casual trail riding, crawling, etc.) is usually better-served with drop brackets due to the better stability they afford.
Skyjacker and James Duff are the go-to drop bracket kits.
For a beam lift, Autofab seems to be king from what I've seen.
Hope that helps to get you started. Let us know if you have any more questions.
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) and it handles very well. The steering angles aren't perfect, but the beams aren't flat like they're supposed to be either so the steering actually follows the angle of the beams so it works out very well.
