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I need some help!


yeah...stand alone systems are a real pain in the ass if you have to figure everything out on ur own, a buddy of mine had a 93 lx fox with a built 5obut the whole ignition sys went out and he bought a stand alone for it and asked me to help him tune it to run pretty hot for street and strip..so i was game right.....luagh my freaking asz off man...when i started tuning it, it took me 2 day just to get the damn thing to idle right, but still couldnt get any punch out of the motor when he hit the go pedal...so i did alot of research and ended up downloading a few setting from a website...got it running ok and went to the track.....had my computer and wireless adapter so i could research if a had to..first runs were pretty rough cuz he was getting used to the new clutch and everything, but was in the mid 13 sec range...i knew it had way more in it so i hooked up my comp and pulled the readings..did a few timing adjustments and sent him back out...ran a little better he had o 1 run in the high 12 sec range...hooked back up to it and had my other buddy pull a few plugs....turns out the preloaded set up from the web had that thing running way to hot(lean), i mean the plugs were already basically on fire hot...and im suprised it didnt burn up his pistons...so i sumped a lil more fuel in it, and richend it up a good bit..cleaned all the plugs and sent him back out, he said it was too much for him to drive..said he was never gunna be able to keep the damn thing straight..even with 12.5 inch sprotsmans, regardless, he ran a 12 flat spinning 1st, 2nd, and backed off in 3rd to get it straight...i told him to grow some balls and drive it thru it but he wasnt sure he could...so i got in it and made a few passes and made it get sideways just to see how it reacted...next time around i told him i was going full bore....lol...he said hey...u break it u buy it u fuc ker...i luaghed and said whatever...so i get up to the line do the burnout of a lifetime thru 2nd gear and held it and about 4k for oh...id say 45 sec or so....staged..pulled up the ebrake put it in 1st feathered the pedal and began to let the clutch out....last yellow light drops, let the brake go and dumped the clutch, that bitch imediatly swung right and threw me way far into the seat, help it off, caught 2nd,,and it hopped back around to the right again.....so at this point im thinking 3rd is gunna hook....negative i hit 3rd, pedaled it and it finally hooked up solid and ran out to 5900, scratched 4th and ran 11.21@132....next week he baught a set of slicks and it still spun thru 2nd(he didnt have trac bars.lol) took him all night to finally get enough jevoes to run it out...ended up running a 10.63@140....not bad i suppose...but that car was impossible to drive on 10 inch wide falken street tires..he sold it though about a year ago just after we got out of high school...if i had the money i would have bought it from him...but at the time i had just bought my f-250 psd...lol...now he has a new acura or sumthin like that...a rwd model....fast as hell too...has a 3.sumthing under the hood and will hit 140 b4 u know it....lol...fun times
 
the standalone id be looking into is blank no downloadable parameters at all, so you know where id b starting from to say the least...
 
yeah...stand alone systems are a real pain in the ass if you have to figure everything out on ur own, a buddy of mine had a 93 lx fox with a built 5obut the whole ignition sys went out and he bought a stand alone for it and asked me to help him tune it to run pretty hot for street and strip..so i was game right.....luagh my freaking asz off man...when i started tuning it, it took me 2 day just to get the damn thing to idle right, but still couldnt get any punch out of the motor when he hit the go pedal...so i did alot of research and ended up downloading a few setting from a website...got it running ok and went to the track.....had my computer and wireless adapter so i could research if a had to..first runs were pretty rough cuz he was getting used to the new clutch and everything, but was in the mid 13 sec range...i knew it had way more in it so i hooked up my comp and pulled the readings..did a few timing adjustments and sent him back out...ran a little better he had o 1 run in the high 12 sec range...hooked back up to it and had my other buddy pull a few plugs....turns out the preloaded set up from the web had that thing running way to hot(lean), i mean the plugs were already basically on fire hot...and im suprised it didnt burn up his pistons...so i sumped a lil more fuel in it, and richend it up a good bit..cleaned all the plugs and sent him back out, he said it was too much for him to drive..said he was never gunna be able to keep the damn thing straight..even with 12.5 inch sprotsmans, regardless, he ran a 12 flat spinning 1st, 2nd, and backed off in 3rd to get it straight...i told him to grow some balls and drive it thru it but he wasnt sure he could...so i got in it and made a few passes and made it get sideways just to see how it reacted...next time around i told him i was going full bore....lol...he said hey...u break it u buy it u fuc ker...i luaghed and said whatever...so i get up to the line do the burnout of a lifetime thru 2nd gear and held it and about 4k for oh...id say 45 sec or so....staged..pulled up the ebrake put it in 1st feathered the pedal and began to let the clutch out....last yellow light drops, let the brake go and dumped the clutch, that bitch imediatly swung right and threw me way far into the seat, help it off, caught 2nd,,and it hopped back around to the right again.....so at this point im thinking 3rd is gunna hook....negative i hit 3rd, pedaled it and it finally hooked up solid and ran out to 5900, scratched 4th and ran 11.21@132....next week he baught a set of slicks and it still spun thru 2nd(he didnt have trac bars.lol) took him all night to finally get enough jevoes to run it out...ended up running a 10.63@140....not bad i suppose...but that car was impossible to drive on 10 inch wide falken street tires..he sold it though about a year ago just after we got out of high school...if i had the money i would have bought it from him...but at the time i had just bought my f-250 psd...lol...now he has a new acura or sumthin like that...a rwd model....fast as hell too...has a 3.sumthing under the hood and will hit 140 b4 u know it....lol...fun times

sounds like a bad bitch!!! lol i want the ranger to be a sleeper! i think i might have to water/meth inject it. been seeing alot of cars running 400+ with water/meth. thats just to keep it cool right??
 
well at least you kno what you hav, either go easy on it and test the waters b4 going full bore or just watch for stripped gears lol.
 
well at least you kno what you hav, either go easy on it and test the waters b4 going full bore or just watch for stripped gears lol.

o ya great! just test the waters lol why dont u just blow up the car for me hahaha jk ill look for a t5
 
i was kidding dude t5 would be a def recommendation but like i said b4 see what they say in the turbo forum they hav a lot more exp with this. im almost going to scrap rebuilding the 2.3 altogether found a 240sx at the picknpull with complete engine/trans/engine harness wonder what they want for it...
 
A T5 over the mazda tranny......? NOT!!!!!! The mazda tranny is far more stronger than the T5 trust me i no. I got a 91 ranger with a moderate build that i got a 175 shot of nos on it (and trust me that stang NEVER saw that commin :icon_rofl:) with slick and as manny times as ive shot it trust me i would have killed many T5 by now. The key to the mazda tranny is to keep it full of oil thats what usually kills then. And as for tunning the ob1 check out www.mass-air.com they have what you need.
 
im not to big on the water meth shit, i dont know a damn thing about it to be honest with you, i can do prpane in diesels, but thats a different story. but i do think your right, water/meth will run it cooler i do believe. dont hold me to it though....and yeah i feel sorry for anybody who doesnt know much about timing air/fuel mixtures, ect. and is trying to do a stand alone by themselves, especially if your not very techno inclined...so yeah, thats jus my .02
 
m50d requires mercon 3 atf, shift rail plugs are a major culprit for leaks, as mine has pipe plugs in place of them now for that reason. i am rather inclined at tuning engines especially fuel injection, its a lack of resources that holds me back (dyno/tuning software etc.) the m50d trans is rated at approx 200hp mostly due to the aluminum housing, the borg warner t5 is rated closer to 500hp if i remember what ive read correctly. i had it wrote down somewhere with the info but cant remember where i put it or where i found it. talk to the guys in the trans section they kno a good bit about it as well. i remember looking into it when i was looking at trans options for my 3.0. the m50d is by far the strongest manual trans for a ranger (the t5 is a swap in i dont recall them ever coming in a ranger) , the 4.0 m50d has steeper 1st 2nd 3rd ratios and they modified the trans into a m50dr1-hd for the newer 4.0 sohc, not sure about bolt pattern compatability on that one. the 2.3 has its own bolt pattern as does the 3.0, the 2.8/2.9/4.0ohv will interchange, idk about the 4.0sohc. the 3.0 shares with a 3.8 FRONT WHEEL DRIVE (freestar) and will bolt up to that trans, where as the 3.8/4.2 rear wheel drive (mustang/f150) have the 5.0 bolt pattern. this is from my reading on here and a few other places including wikipedia.
 
well the tranny fluid question was for the other guy, but regardless i know what they call for(m5od), cuz when i bought my rangerit had standard weight tranny fluid in it and the syncros where about shot, would barely go into gear, but saw the problem changed the fluid and it fixed it right up, even on cold days recenly b4 the wreck i never had any shift problems...and i think i may have found out why the tach was messing up and why it didnt seem to have any power after 4k...apparently it could have been my icm, being just as old as i am and never being replaced they it had quite a bit of wear and tear on it, so i think if i get the chance to fix it ill replace it...

and when i was surfing thru a jyard for body panels i found one in perfect shape with a 2.9 auto tranny, same year, but get this it had the same 4 pong mas airflow sens, but it was substantially larger, so i have to ponder if it could be a swap possibility as it seemed to be the same style just bigger passage way??idk just a thought
 
the 2.3/2.9/3.0/4.0 mafs are the same housing if im not mistaken, they all have the same airbox/airfilter, no difference in size at all. i remember reading somebody saying something about the letters on the outside of the maf on the 4.0s being different than the 2.3s? not sure but you can look into it, i kno the contour maf with the adapter is identical to the 2.3 ranger and the round air filter adapter block has written on it ranger 2.3/3.0/4.0 on it. double check that info on the maf size and element being interchangeable first from the 4.0 to the 3.0/2.3 ill look into it again myself. my question is where in the holy hell do i get a bigger throttlebody for my 2.3, its smaller than the intake tract and the maf...
 
well...i suppose you could be right and they are all the same size. but i could be sure that if the one on my truck is this big..( ), then the one i saw was this big..( )..i dont know the exact I.D. pf either one but, it just seemed to be a much larger passageway, though it did share the same airbox unit, i never looked at the mileage, but i may drive back over there and take a closer look aswell as get some measurements, seems like the only thing wrong with that truck is it could use some new interior and a new driver side door..could swap my 2.3 and tranny into it possibly and just has a little old beater??idk, still havent gotten any word from my insurance, but i found out that the lady who pulled out in front me has the same insurance co. so well see what happens.
 

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